Thanaddo Metal Roofing Panels 25 pcs 60.63 inch x 16.77 inch Galvanized Steel, Corrugated Tin Roof Panels Roofing Sheets Heavy Duty Roof Replacement for Patio Carport Garden, Black

Why I picked these panels and what arrived

I needed a lightweight, metal solution to re-skin a small shed wall and add a short overhang on a garden walkway. The dimensions and price of these corrugated galvanized steel panels were a good fit, and the black finish promised a cleaner look than the raw galvanized sheets I’m used to.

My set arrived in a single heavy box. The bundle had the usual scuffs from transit; a couple of panel corners were slightly dinged. Those nicks ended up in the overlap and didn’t affect the install, but it’s worth knowing the packaging doesn’t completely prevent minor edge damage. Inside the box were 25 panels, each wrapped in a protective plastic film, plus a bag of mounting screws. The product page mentions different piece counts in places; my box was 25 as specified.

Build, finish, and size

Each panel measures roughly 60.63 inches long by 16.77 inches wide with a 0.01-inch thickness. That thickness makes them lighter and easier to handle than typical 29–26 gauge roofing, but also less rigid. The finish on mine reads more charcoal/dark gray than an inky black, which I actually prefer—it hides dust and fingerprints better. The colored face is the weather side; the back is a light finish.

The protective film did its job keeping the finish pristine but took patience to peel. It comes off cleanly, yet it’s time-consuming across an entire set. Do yourself a favor and remove the film before you start installing, and wear gloves—edges are sharp, and the film can encourage you to grip in all the wrong places.

Planning coverage and layout

With corrugated panels, the nominal width is not your coverage width. Expect to lose about an inch to side-to-side overlap so the profiles lock and shed water properly. On my set, effective coverage per panel was about 15.75–16 inches wide after a single full corrugation overlap. Lengthwise, you’ll only lose length if you are joining rows; for a roof, plan a 4–6 inch end-lap depending on pitch and exposure. For walls or short runs, you can use full length.

For quick math:
- Nominal area per panel: about 7.1 square feet (60.63 x 16.77 inches).
- Effective area with one corrugation side overlap, no end-lap: roughly 6.6 square feet.
- If you also need a 6-inch end-lap for roofing: roughly 6.0 square feet.

This matters because a small misread of width can throw your count. I recommend dry-fitting two or three panels to confirm your overlap and measuring the actual coverage width on-site before you cut anything.

Installation experience

I mounted these over 2x purlins at 24 inches on center for the shed wall and over 2x framing for the short overhang. Given the thin material, closer support makes a big difference. If you’re roofing with these, I wouldn’t stretch spans; either tighten your purlin spacing or plan on more fasteners to avoid oil-canning and flutter in wind.

Cutting was easy with electric shears and a nibbler—far cleaner and safer than abrasive wheels. Keep heat to a minimum to preserve the galvanized coating. After cutting, I hit exposed edges with a cold-galv compound to slow corrosion.

The panels ship with standard sheet-metal screws. Mine were fine for pre-drilled holes in wood, but they aren’t self-drilling and don’t include sealing washers. For weather-exposed roof work, I swapped to self-tapping roofing screws with EPDM washers. That change alone improves holding power and water sealing. On walls or interior partitions, the included hardware will get you through, but budget for better fasteners if you’re aiming at a weathertight roof.

A few practical notes from install:

• Orientation: For roofing, run corrugations perpendicular to the fall and lap away from prevailing wind. I fastened on the high rib with washered screws to keep water out of the valleys; for siding, fastening in the valley can pull the sheet flatter.
• Fastener count: I used about 8–10 screws per panel on walls, a bit more at eaves and overlaps for roofing. Plan extra where two panels overlap; you’re effectively tying two sheets into the same structure and may need one screw for each panel on a raised rib.
• Sealing: On the roof overhang, I added butyl tape on side laps and at end laps. With the EPDM screws and butyl, the joints stayed dry through the first storm.
• Handling: The light gauge is a blessing during install—easy to lift and align alone—but treat the edges with respect and keep them off hard corners so you don’t crease a rib.

Performance so far

For a light-gauge sheet, stiffness was acceptable once fastened with sensible spacing. On the shed wall, there’s no rattle, and the finish still looks uniform after a few weeks of sun and a couple of rainfalls. On the short roof section, water sheds as expected; no capillary creep through the side lap when butyl is used correctly.

I wouldn’t choose this thickness for a large, exposed roof in a high-wind area, but for small roofs, carport sides, sheds, garden structures, and under-deck privacy, they’re a practical, good-looking option. The galvanized substrate should hold up well if you avoid dissimilar metal contact and seal cuts. As with all galvanized steel, keep it off copper-treated lumber or add a barrier layer to prevent galvanic corrosion.

Thermally, the dark finish will run warmer in direct sun; for a coop or shed, that can be a benefit in winter and a downside in summer. Venting and shading matter more than the panel color alone, but it’s something to keep in mind.

What could be better

• Packaging: My box had minor corner dents. A stiffer end cap or double-wall at the ends would help prevent edge damage in transit.
• Hardware: Including self-drilling screws with EPDM washers would make these more “roof ready.” The current screws are adequate for pre-drilled wood but not ideal where sealing is critical.
• Documentation: A one-page guide with recommended overlaps, fastener placement, and effective coverage width would save buyers from guesswork.
• Product page clarity: The kit count and coverage width should be stated unambiguously. My box was 25 pieces as advertised; consistency across descriptions would build confidence.

Who these panels suit best

• Great for: Shed siding, interior partitions, bar fronts, under-deck screening, small patio covers, carport sides, and other light-duty structures where ease of handling and a clean look are priorities.
• Use with care for: Weather-exposed roofing in windy or high-snow regions—tighten framing spacing, use proper screws and sealants, and consider a heavier gauge if your spans are long or loads are high.
• Not ideal for: Structural applications or places where impact resistance is critical; a thicker panel will serve you better there.

Tips to get the most from them

• Pre-plan coverage: Test two panels together to confirm your overlap and set layout lines from that measurement.
• Upgrade fasteners: Use self-tapping roofing screws with EPDM washers; add butyl tape at laps for roof use.
• Mind your spans: Keep purlins tight (I like 16–24 inches on center with thin sheet) and add fasteners at eaves and gable ends.
• Cut clean, seal edges: Use shears or a nibbler and touch up cuts with a zinc-rich coating.
• Safety: Gloves and eye protection—sharp edges and stray shards are part of the job.
• Remove film early: Peel the protective film before install; it’s far easier on a flat surface than up a ladder.

Recommendation

I recommend these Thanaddo corrugated panels for light-duty roofing and siding projects where weight, ease of handling, and a tidy, modern look matter more than maximum rigidity. They install easily, the finish is attractive and consistent, and with upgraded fasteners and proper laps, they’ll do a dependable job on sheds, small covers, and vertical cladding. If you’re tackling a large, exposed roof or need heavy-duty impact resistance, step up to a thicker gauge. Otherwise, for small to midsized DIY and homeowner projects, these strike a sensible balance of cost, coverage, and appearance.