DeWalt 1-1/4 in. PLUNGEPOINT General Purpose Oscillating Blade (3 PK)

Why I reached for this blade

On small remodels and punch-list jobs, I burn through general‑purpose oscillating blades faster than I’d like. I need something that can start clean plunge cuts, survive the occasional nail strike, and swap quickly between tools I keep in the truck. That’s what led me to this DeWalt plunge‑point blade three‑pack. After several weeks cutting casing, trimming jambs, notching PVC, and opening drywall for boxes, I have a clear sense of where this blade shines—and where it doesn’t.

Design and build

This is a 1‑1/4 inch wide bi‑metal blade with a high‑speed steel cutting edge. The width is a sweet spot: narrow enough to snake into tight spots (think notching for clips or making relief cuts in trim) but wide enough to track a straight line without wandering. The PlungePoint tip matters. It’s ground to a sharp profile that bites immediately, so I can set the nose, rock the tool a touch, and be into the material without skating. That reduces the fuzzy blow‑out I sometimes see with blunt tips, especially in painted jambs and primed MDF.

There’s a wear‑resistant coating on the blade. I won’t pretend coatings work miracles, but I did notice less pitch build‑up and slower discoloration when I was cutting nail‑embedded wood, compared with some uncoated bi‑metal blades I keep as backups.

Fit and compatibility

The universal fitment is truly plug‑and‑play for most of my kits: I ran it on DeWalt and Milwaukee oscillating tools without adapters, and it fit a CRAFTSMAN and a Makita multi‑tool in the shop just as easily. Blade changes were tool‑free on all of them, which is the real story—swap speed matters when you’re alternating between wood and metal. One caveat: if you’re running a Starlock‑only tool, this blade won’t mount; it’s a standard open‑back design.

Buying it in a three‑pack is practical. I keep one in the pouch, one on the bench, and one unopened in the truck. Less downtime when a blade finally dulls or hits an ugly screw head.

Cutting performance in wood

For wood and trim, this blade cuts cleanly and predictably. I used it to undercut door casing for a new floor, notch back baseboard at a return, and flush‑trim shims. The PlungePoint let me start inside a line with control, and the 1‑1/4" width helped me follow a score mark without drifting. In softwoods and primed MDF, cut quality was impressively smooth, especially at medium oscillation speeds with light feed pressure.

On denser hardwoods (red oak casing, maple veneer plywood), it still did the job, but you’ll feel the blade prefer a steady pace over an aggressive push. If you need to rip through a lot of hardwood fast, a wood‑tooth blade with a more aggressive profile (or carbide for abusive work) will be quicker. As a general‑purpose cutter, though, this one is easy to control and leaves tidy edges that need minimal sanding.

Nail‑embedded wood and light metal

This is where the bi‑metal HSS edge earns its keep. I purposely ran the blade into finish nails while freeing up a piece of old casing and later cut a few stray drywall screws flush with a stud. In both cases, the blade shrugged it off and kept cutting wood without obvious tooth deformation. Compared with cheaper carbon‑steel blades, the difference is night‑and‑day—the edge didn’t curl at the first spark.

For dedicated metal work, I’d call it a light‑duty performer. Cutting thin‑gauge steel stud, copper pipe, and aluminum trim went fine at lower speeds with minimal pressure. It will cut ferrous metals, but set expectations: this isn’t the fastest route for heavy screws, bolts, or thick steel, and it’s not as durable in metal‑only cuts as a carbide‑grit or carbide‑tooth blade. For mixed materials and incidental metal, it’s exactly what I want from a general‑purpose blade.

Drywall and plastics

If you do a lot of remodeling, you know oscillating tools are drywall scalpels. The plunge tip starts box cutouts cleanly, and the 1‑1/4" width is small enough to maneuver around corners without overcutting. In PVC and ABS, the blade tracks straight with minimal melting as long as you keep the speed moderate and clear chips. For plumbing cut‑ins and electrical rough‑ins, it’s a solid, predictable cutter.

Precision and control

The blade runs with low chatter when you don’t force it. I found the sweet spot at mid speed with a light grip, letting the teeth do the work and feathering the plunge. The tip geometry helps keep the opening point on target, so I’m not correcting a misplaced start. For hinge mortises or delicate notching, it won’t replace a router or chisel, but it gets close enough for site fixes and template‑free work.

Durability and heat management

Longevity is good for a bi‑metal. After a handful of nail strikes, several undercuts, some drywall cutouts, and a day of PVC and trim tasks, the first blade still cut acceptably. It did slow down in hardwood by the end, which is normal. Heat is the enemy here: if you pin the tool at maximum speed and bear down, you’ll glaze the teeth sooner. Backing off on speed, oscillating the cut to clear dust, and pausing on longer cuts noticeably extended usable life.

The coating appears to limit gumming in resinous pine and keeps the blade sliding smoother along flush‑cut surfaces. I still recommend a wipe with mineral spirits at the end of the day.

What it’s not for

• Tile or masonry: this blade isn’t designed for it, and you’ll ruin it quickly.
• Heavy demolition through thick metal or dense fastener fields: a carbide‑tooth blade is a better choice.
• Starlock‑only tools: not compatible.

Also worth noting: there’s no manufacturer warranty on the blades beyond whatever your retailer offers, and the packaging carries the standard California Prop 65 warning.

Practical tips for best results

• Start at a medium oscillation speed and increase only as needed.
• Score your line with a knife on painted trim to reduce chipping, then plunge on the waste side.
• Let the tip nibble in—rock the tool gently to establish the kerf before committing.
• If you hit a nail, ease off and let the teeth clear; don’t grind in place.
• Rotate blades between wood and metal tasks to extend life, and keep a fresh one for finish‑grade cuts.

Value

Buying these in a three‑pack makes sense for working trades and serious DIYers. You’re paying for reliable nail tolerance, a precise plunge tip, and broad compatibility more than for outright speed in any single material. For a blade you can keep on the tool for mixed‑material tasks without swapping constantly, the value proposition holds up.

Pros

• PlungePoint tip starts clean, accurate cuts with minimal skate
• Bi‑metal HSS edge survives incidental nail and screw strikes
• Coating helps with durability and reduces gumming
• Universal fitment covers most major brands with tool‑free swaps
• Three‑pack reduces downtime and cost per blade

Cons

• Not as fast as aggressive wood‑tooth or carbide blades in hardwoods
• Only light‑duty metal performance; thick steel will fatigue it
• Not compatible with Starlock‑only tools
• No explicit warranty

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt plunge‑point blade for anyone who needs a dependable, general‑purpose cutter that balances precision with durability across wood, drywall, plastics, and occasional metal. It’s not a demolition blade and it won’t win races through thick stock, but it consistently starts clean, cuts straight, and shrugs off the nail strikes that ruin cheaper options. The universal fitment and three‑pack format make it easy to keep your kit ready, and the overall performance hits the mark for everyday remodel and service work. If your workload is heavy tile or thick metal, choose a specialized blade; otherwise, this one’s an easy add to the pouch.