Short answer
Yes. Several standalone keypad locks work entirely offline (no Wi‑Fi or Bluetooth) and still include a traditional key cylinder as backup. Solid choices include: Kwikset Powerbolt 2/250 series, Schlage FE595 Keypad Lever, Yale Assure YRD226 (NR/no-radio), Defiant Electronic Deadbolt, Emtek EMTouch series, Lockey mechanical push‑button locks with key override (KO models), and commercial options like Alarm Lock Trilogy DL2700.
What to look for and why it matters
Choosing a keypad lock without wireless keeps things simple, reduces battery drain, and avoids app/cloud dependencies. A keyed override gives you a way in if batteries die or the keypad fails. Focus on:
- Offline operation: Confirm the lock is a non-connected model, or ships without a radio module.
- Keyed cylinder: Look for a visible keyway on the exterior.
- Door prep compatibility: Make sure the lock fits your existing bore holes and backset.
- Battery type/life: Most use 4 AA alkaline; mechanical locks like Lockey need no batteries.
Reliable offline models to consider
- Kwikset Powerbolt 2 / 250 series (keyed deadbolt, no wireless). Easy programming, SmartKey rekeying, good value. Approx. $60–$100.
- Schlage FE595 Keypad Lever (Flex‑Lock) (keyed lever, no wireless). Ideal for garage/laundry/side doors where a latch lever is preferred over a deadbolt. Approx. $90–$140.
- Yale Assure YRD226 (NR) (keyed deadbolt). Ships without a network module, so it’s offline; you can add a module later if desired. Approx. $120–$180.
- Defiant Electronic Deadbolt (Home-center branded, keyed). Budget-friendly and offline. Approx. $50–$80.
- Emtek EMTouch Keypad Deadbolt (keyed, premium build). Offline by default; some models accept optional radio modules. Approx. $200–$300.
- Lockey USA Mechanical Push‑Button (KO models, e.g., 2835KO) (mechanical keypad with key override). No batteries, weather-tough. Approx. $150–$220.
- Alarm Lock Trilogy DL2700 (commercial grade, keyed). Standalone programming, very durable. Approx. $250–$450.
Check your door first (fit + measurements)
Most residential doors are already prepped for standard deadbolts/levers. Confirm these before you buy:
Door bore (front hole): 2-1/8" (54 mm)
Latch cross-bore (edge hole): 1" (25 mm)
Backset: 2-3/8" or 2-3/4" (many latches are adjustable)
Door thickness: 1-3/8" to 2" (some kits support up to 2-1/4")
Handing: Left or right (most keypads auto-hand or are reversible)
Strike alignment: Bolt should center cleanly in the strike without rubbing
Tools and materials you’ll need
- Phillips screwdriver (hand driver preferred to avoid stripping)
- Tape measure and pencil
- Utility knife (to score paint around old escutcheons)
- Chisel and hammer (only if you need to fine-tune the mortise)
- Drill with driver bits (for new installs or longer screws in the strike)
- Safety glasses
- Fresh alkaline AA batteries (do not start with half-used cells)
Installation overview (typical deadbolt)
- Remove the old lock. Open the door. Back out interior screws, separate the exterior, then remove the latch.
- Check the backset. Set the new latch to 2-3/8" or 2-3/4" to match your door.
- Install the latch. Bevel faces the strike. Don’t overtighten the two faceplate screws.
- Route any cable (if present) under/over the latch as instructed so it isn’t pinched.
- Mount the exterior keypad. Keep it level and ensure the tailpiece/cable pass through correctly.
- Attach the interior assembly. Hand‑tighten through-bolts first, then snug them evenly.
- Insert batteries and follow the programming guide to set your master code and user codes.
- Test operation with the door open: keypad unlock/lock, thumbturn, and the physical key. Ensure smooth bolt throw before closing.
Time: 20–45 minutes for a direct swap; 60–120 minutes if you’re drilling fresh holes.
Safety and security tips
- Keep the door open while programming to avoid locking yourself out mid-setup.
- Use the provided long strike plate screws into wall framing for better kick resistance.
- Don’t use oil in the keyway. Use a dry graphite or PTFE lock lubricant.
- Change the default codes immediately and store the programming/master code somewhere safe (not on your phone’s lock screen).
- For Kwikset SmartKey cylinders, rekey only with the proper tool and known working key to avoid cylinder damage.
Best practices for reliability
- Use fresh, name-brand alkaline batteries; avoid rechargeables (lower voltage can cause glitches). Replace annually or when the lock beeps/flashes low battery.
- If your door rubs or the bolt drags, realign the strike rather than forcing the mechanism; binding shortens lock life.
- Weather exposure: choose a model rated for exterior use and consider a keypad cover in harsh climates.
- On lever models (like Schlage FE595), decide whether you want passage or auto-lock/flex-lock features and set them per the manual.
Common pitfalls to avoid
- Pinching the cable between the keypad and door (if your model has one).
- Overtightening the through-bolts, which can warp the lock and cause sticky operation.
- Ignoring door sag/misalignment. The smartest lock won’t overcome a misfit strike.
- Relying only on the keypad: keep a labeled spare key in a secure place outside your home (with a trusted neighbor or in a lockbox).
When to call a pro
- You’re converting from a mortise lock or unusual prep to a tubular deadbolt/lever.
- Metal or glass doors where drilling/chiseling risks damage.
- You need master keying, complex rekeying, or your existing cylinder is damaged.
- Persistent misalignment that requires jamb/hinge adjustments or carpentry.
Quick picks by scenario
- Budget, no frills: Defiant Electronic Deadbolt or Kwikset Powerbolt 2.
- Upgrade feel + rekey convenience: Kwikset “SmartCode/Powerbolt” series.
- Lever instead of deadbolt: Schlage FE595 Keypad Lever.
- Premium hardware: Emtek EMTouch.
- No batteries wanted: Lockey 2835KO mechanical with key override.
- Heavy-duty/commercial: Alarm Lock Trilogy DL2700.
With the right fit and a careful install, these offline keypad locks with a keyed backup provide dependable access control without relying on apps or Wi‑Fi—and you’ll always have that physical key as a last resort.