Short answer
Use a hammer drill (or an SDS-plus rotary hammer for harder concrete) with a carbide-tipped masonry bit matched to your anchor. For beginners anchoring light-to-medium fixtures, concrete screws (Tapcon-style) are the simplest and most reliable: drill in hammer mode to the correct depth with the specified bit size, clean the hole thoroughly, then drive the screw with an impact driver or drill. For heavier loads, use sleeve or wedge anchors drilled to the anchor’s diameter and tightened with a wrench.
Choosing the right tool and anchor
- Drill type
- Hammer drill (corded or 18–20V cordless): good for most holes up to 3/8" in typical residential concrete.
- SDS-plus rotary hammer: faster, smoother drilling in tough or old concrete, or holes 3/8" and larger. Worth renting if you have many holes.
- Bits
- Carbide-tipped masonry bit for hammer drills.
- SDS-plus masonry bit for rotary hammers.
- Beginner-friendly anchors
- Concrete screws (Tapcon-style): Easiest for shelves, brackets, TV conduits, pipe clips, and light handrails. No sleeves needed.
- Sleeve anchors: Good for medium loads and slightly uneven holes.
- Wedge anchors: Stronger; for heavy brackets or gym racks. Require precise hole size and depth.
Concrete screws (Tapcon-style)
- 3/16" screw → 5/32" carbide bit; min embedment 1" (max ~1-3/4")
- 1/4" screw → 3/16" carbide bit; min embedment 1" (max ~1-3/4")
Hole depth = screw length − fixture thickness + 1/4" clearance
Sleeve anchors
- Drill the SAME diameter as the anchor (e.g., 3/8" anchor → 3/8" bit)
- Hole depth = anchor length − washer/nut thickness + ~1/2"
- Keep ≥ 4–6 × anchor diameter from edges/joints
Wedge anchors
- Drill SAME diameter as anchor; embedment often ≥ 2-1/4" for 3/8" size
- Tighten to manufacturer torque
Materials and tools
- Hammer drill or SDS-plus rotary hammer
- Carbide masonry bits (sizes per anchor)
- Anchors: concrete screws, sleeve anchors, or wedge anchors
- Vacuum/dust extractor, blow bulb or compressed air, small hole brush (optional but recommended)
- Driver (impact driver or drill) and proper bits; wrench for sleeve/wedge anchors
- Depth stop or painter’s tape for marking drill depth
- Pencil/marker, center punch or nail set
- PPE: safety glasses, hearing protection, N95/dust mask, gloves
- Multi-material scanner (to avoid rebar, conduit, post-tension cables if applicable)
Step-by-step: Concrete screws (best for beginners)
- Plan the layout
- Position holes at least 2" from edges to avoid spalling. Use 2–3 fasteners for wider brackets.
- Mark and start
- Mark hole centers. Use a punch to create a starter dimple to prevent bit wandering.
- Set depth
- Mark your bit with tape to the required depth (see spec above). Add 1/4" for dust.
- Drill in hammer mode
- Keep the drill perpendicular. Start slow to “seat” the bit, then use steady pressure. Back the bit out a couple times to eject dust.
- Clean the hole
- Vacuum, then blow out, then vacuum again. Clearing dust dramatically improves holding power.
- Attach fixture and drive screw
- Align the fixture and drive the screw through the hole. Use an impact driver on low/medium speed or a drill on a low gear. Snug plus a bit more; don’t over-torque.
Time: 5–10 minutes per hole. Cost: $8–$20 for a good bit; $0.25–$0.60 per screw; hammer drill $60–$150 (or borrow/rent $15–$25/day).
Step-by-step: Sleeve or wedge anchors (heavier loads)
- Choose size and count
- Common: 3/8" or 1/2" anchors for heavy brackets or gym equipment. Check fixture’s mounting holes.
- Mark, punch, and set depth
- Use a depth stop or tape. Maintain minimum edge distance (4–6× anchor diameter).
- Drill with hammer or rotary hammer
- Use steady pressure and keep perpendicular. For many holes or hard concrete, an SDS-plus rotary hammer saves time and arm fatigue.
- Clean thoroughly
- Vacuum, blow, vacuum. For wedge anchors, hole cleanliness directly affects holding strength.
- Install
- Sleeve: Insert through fixture and tighten nut until snug and then a bit more to expand.
- Wedge: Insert anchor to full embedment, seat the wedge by tapping, then tighten to spec with a wrench.
Safety and best practices
- Wear safety glasses and hearing protection; concrete chips can fly.
- Use a dust mask or respirator; crystalline silica is hazardous.
- Scan walls if there’s any chance of embedded conduit, rebar, or post-tension cables. Stop if you hit steel.
- Keep holes perpendicular; angled holes reduce capacity.
- Don’t drill into cracks; move the hole at least a few inches.
- Let the bit do the work—too much force overheats and dulls bits.
Tips for better results
- Fresh, quality masonry bits cut faster and produce rounder holes.
- Clear dust often while drilling; it prevents binding and enlarging the hole.
- If a hole gets oversized, switch to a sleeve anchor one size up or use a chemical anchor rather than trying to reuse a concrete screw.
- For many holes, consider a dust-extraction shroud (saves cleanup and improves hole quality).
- In very hard aggregate, a quick switch to an SDS-plus rotary hammer can turn a 2-minute hole into a 15-second hole.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Using the wrong bit size for the anchor.
- Skipping hole cleaning—this is the number one cause of spinning anchors and stripped concrete screw threads.
- Over-driving concrete screws; once the threads strip, the hole is done.
- Drilling too close to edges or into mortar joints (for block/brick projects). For poured concrete walls, stay a couple inches from edges and corners.
- Using “hammer-only” mode on an SDS tool; you want rotary hammer mode for drilling.
When to call a pro
- You suspect post-tensioned concrete or can’t rule out hidden conduit.
- Anchoring life-safety items (guardrails, structural supports) or very heavy loads.
- You hit rebar repeatedly and need guidance on relocating or core drilling.
With the right drill, the correct bit size, and clean holes, beginners can reliably anchor shelves, brackets, and fixtures into concrete on the first try.