How do I patch a hole in drywall?

Quick answer

Patch small nail/screw holes with lightweight spackle and a putty knife. For 1–4 inch holes, use a self-adhesive mesh patch or a California (butterfly) patch with joint compound. For holes larger than 4–6 inches, cut back to a square, add backing (cleats or a stud), screw in a new drywall piece, tape, mud, sand, and paint.

Choosing the right method

• Tiny (pinholes, nail pops): Lightweight spackle, one or two coats.
• Small (up to 1 inch): Spackle or joint compound; mesh tape if there’s cracking.
• Medium (1–4 inches): Self-adhesive mesh patch or California patch.
• Large (>4–6 inches): New drywall piece with backing, taped and mudded.

Time/cost: Small patches take 15–30 minutes of hands-on time; larger repairs 1–2 hours (plus drying). Materials typically $10–$40 depending on size and whether you buy a patch kit.

Tools and materials

• Cutting/fastening: Utility knife, drywall saw or oscillating multi-tool, drill/driver, drywall screws (coarse thread), screw gun bit, tape measure, straightedge.
• Patching/finishing: Putty knife (2–3 inch), taping knife (6–8 inch) and finishing knife (10–12 inch), drywall joint compound (pre-mixed) or setting-type compound (20/45-minute), lightweight spackle, self-adhesive mesh tape or patches, paper tape (for seams), fine-grit sanding sponge (120–220), primer and matching paint.
• Backing (for large holes): 1x2 wood cleats or scrap drywall for a butterfly patch, scrap drywall for the plug.
• Dust control & safety: Drop cloth, shop vac, painter’s plastic, safety glasses, dust mask/respirator (N95), stud finder with AC alert.

Safety first

• Check for wires/pipes before cutting. Use a stud finder with live-wire warning and look for outlets/switches nearby.
• Wear eye protection and a dust mask when cutting/sanding. Ventilate and collect dust with a vacuum or damp-sponge sanding.
• If your home is very old and you’re sanding large areas of old joint compound, consider testing for hazardous dust and use wet-sanding to minimize airborne particles.

Step-by-step methods

A) Tiny holes (pinholes to 1/2 inch)

1. Lightly scuff around the hole with 120–150 grit.
2. Apply lightweight spackle with a 2–3 inch putty knife, pressing it in and scraping flush.
3. Let dry, then lightly sand or damp-sponge smooth.
4. Prime and paint. One coat of primer prevents flashing.

B) Small–medium holes (1/2 to 4 inches) with mesh patch

1. Square/clean the hole: Trim loose paper with a utility knife.
2. Stick a self-adhesive mesh patch over the hole, centered.
3. First coat: Apply joint compound over the patch with a 6–8 inch knife, just enough to embed the mesh. Feather edges.
4. Second/third coats: After drying, skim wider with a 10–12 inch knife to blend.
5. Sand lightly, prime, and paint.

Tip: Use setting-type compound (e.g., 45-minute) for the first coat to reduce wait time and shrinkage.

C) California (butterfly) patch for 2–6 inch holes

1. Cut the hole into a neat square/rectangle.
2. From scrap drywall, cut a patch 2 inches larger than the hole both directions. Score and peel the gypsum back, leaving a 1-inch paper “flange” around the gypsum core.
3. Test fit so the gypsum core fits the hole and the paper flange overlaps the wall.
4. Apply a thin coat of compound around the hole; press the patch in, paper flange on the surface.
5. Embed the paper edges with a 6–8 inch knife, then skim over the entire area.
6. After dry, apply 1–2 wider coats, sand, prime, and paint.

D) Large holes (>4–6 inches): new drywall with backing

1. Square the hole. Trace a neat rectangle and cut with a drywall saw.
2. Install backing: Cut 1x2 cleats about 2–3 inches longer than the opening height. Insert and screw through existing drywall at top and bottom (two screws each).
3. Cut a drywall patch to fit the opening.
4. Screw the patch to the cleats, heads slightly dimpled without tearing paper.
5. Tape seams: Use paper tape over all seams. Apply a bed coat of compound with a 6–8 inch knife, embed tape, then smooth.
6. Build coats: Apply 1–2 wider coats with a 10–12 inch knife, feathering out 10–14 inches from seams.
7. Sand, prime, and paint.

Specifications you can follow:

Screws: 1-1/4" coarse-thread drywall screws into wood backing
Screw spacing: ~8" along cleats
Patch fit: 1/16" gap or less around edges
Feather width: 8–12" for final coat
Primer: Stain-blocking or drywall primer-sealer


Finishing and painting

• Always prime repaired areas before paint to avoid flashing.
• For textured walls (orange peel/knockdown), use a spray texture to match before priming. Practice on scrap first.

Tips for best results

• Thin coats beat thick coats. Two or three light coats minimize sanding.
• Feather far and wide. A 10–12 inch knife blends edges better.
• Damp-sponge sanding reduces dust and swirl marks.
• Warm, low-humidity conditions speed drying. Setting-type compound keeps projects moving.
• Match drywall thickness (1/2 inch is common; 5/8 inch on many ceilings).

Common mistakes to avoid

• Skipping primer, leading to shiny “flashed” spots.
• Applying compound too thick, causing cracking or long dry times.
• Not using backing on large holes, leading to soft or cracked patches.
• Over-sanding through the paper, exposing fuzz and creating more work.
• Driving screws too deep and breaking the paper face—lose holding power.

When to call a pro

• Repeated cracks indicating movement, or wide structural cracks.
• Water damage, sagging ceilings, or visible mold—fix the source and consider remediation.
• Large patches that must match complex textures or Level 5 finishes in critical lighting.
• Suspicion of hidden utilities where cutting could be hazardous.

Rough budget guide: small spackle and knife $10–$15; mesh patch kits $8–$20; joint compound $10–$20; knives $10–$30 each; drywall scrap often free from offcuts; cleats and screws $5–$10. Most homeowners can complete small to medium patches in an evening; larger patches may span a weekend due to dry times.