DeWalt Bi-Metal Hole Saw

A familiar workhorse that still earns its place in the kit

I put this DeWalt hole saw to work on a mix of jobs—framing, finish carpentry, and some light metal tasks—and it behaves like a seasoned, no-drama cutter. It’s a bi‑metal cup with a high‑speed steel edge, sized at 1-1/2 inches (38 mm) and a cutting depth of 1.75 inches (44 mm). The deeper cup matters: it clears standard 2-by lumber in one pass, which is exactly the sort of small design decision that saves minutes on repetitive work and keeps your rhythm steady.

The teeth are sharp out of the box—gloves recommended when you’re mounting it. DeWalt claims a “patented tooth form” for improved chip evacuation and a longer life on black pipe versus the prior generation. I won’t quantify life claims, but chip release is clearly better than the generic cups I’ve used in this size, especially in resinous softwoods where gullets can pack quickly.

Build and design

The bi‑metal construction and HSS edge are what you expect at this tier: a good balance of hardness for edge retention and flexibility so you don’t snap teeth if you clip a fastener. The cup has a large, continuous slot for plug ejection that actually runs the height of the saw; that’s not just a convenience feature, it’s a workflow feature. Being able to push a stubborn plug out without resorting to a chisel saves time and preserves the teeth.

The threads and backing plate feel precise, and once seated on a quality mandrel the runout is minimal. I noticed the paint on the threads was a little thick the first time I spun it onto an arbor—it felt like it wanted to cross‑thread. Back it off, clear the paint dust, and try again; once it’s been on and off once or twice, it engages smoothly and locks up tight.

It’s made in the USA with global materials. The finish holds up fine—expect cosmetic scuffing on the cup after a few holes in abrasive sheet goods.

Setup and compatibility

You’ll need an arbor/mandrel with a 1/4-inch pilot bit (0.25 in pilot). DeWalt lists a minimum chuck size of 1/4 inch. In practice, I prefer a beefier drill with a 1/2-inch chuck for a 1-1/2-inch hole saw, simply because torque matters more than spec sheet minimums. High torque, low RPM is the name of the game.

A quick-change mandrel is worth the money if you’re swapping sizes throughout the day. Once mounted, the cup seats squarely with no wobble, provided the arbor isn’t worn.

Two simple setup tips:
- Keep a center punch handy for metal work to prevent walking.
- For clean entry and exit on finished faces, back your work with scrap and let the pilot bit break through first.

Cutting performance in wood

In wood, this hole saw is confident and predictable. Through studs and plates, it bites cleanly and stays on center without forcing. The deeper cup pays off when you’re popping holes for 1-1/4 or 1-1/2-inch conduit through a single top plate: the plug ends up near the lip, and the continuous slot lets you push it out easily.

Cut quality is good. In hardwoods like oak, it leaves a fair edge with minimal fuzzing. In softwoods and plywood, you’ll see the usual tearout if you rush the cut; slow the feed a hair and back the saw out to clear chips on deeper plunges. Rocking the drill slightly while maintaining a steady feed helps the gullets clear, keeps temperatures down, and prevents polish glazing on the tooth tips.

This size is right at the threshold where lighter 12V drills begin to bog, especially in dense hardwood. A mid‑torque 18/20V or a corded drill keeps things moving without stalling.

Metal and plastics

For sheet aluminum and mild steel, the hole saw is perfectly serviceable. Slow your speed, keep steady pressure, and use a drop of cutting fluid to reduce heat and improve chip formation. The teeth handled thin aluminum without skating once the pilot bit was seated, and the finish was surprisingly clean for a cup saw. On steel, stay patient—let the saw cut and clear often.

On plastics (PVC and ABS), it cuts quickly and stays true. Use a moderate speed to avoid melting and edge ridging; if you see swarf strings starting to weld, back off the RPM and let the chips cool.

Plug ejection and chip control

The continuous slot isn’t a gimmick—it’s the difference between poking around with a screwdriver for a minute versus moving on in ten seconds. Most plugs can be nudged free through the slot with the drill reversed briefly to relax the bite. For denser plugs that wedge tightly (oak, laminated plywood), I’ll pop the arbor out and push from the pilot hole with a small punch. Either way, the slot gives you access.

Chip evacuation is better than average. In deep cuts, plan a couple of quick withdrawals to clear the cup. That’s standard practice, but on this saw those breaks are short—the gullets empty cleanly and you’re back in.

Accuracy and runout

This cup tracks well. Holes measure true to size with a good arbor, and the pilot stays centered. There’s minimal chatter, helped by the tooth geometry and probably the stiffness of the cup. If you need a tight fit for a bushing or grommet, this saw won’t oversize the hole as long as you aren’t forcing it off‑axis.

Durability and life

Edge life has been solid across a mix of hardwood, SPF, and the occasional sheet metal cut. After a run of holes in red oak, the teeth still look crisp and cut cleanly. Incidental contact with a finish nail didn’t chip or roll the edge, though I wouldn’t make a diet of fasteners. Heat management matters here—keep speeds down, especially in metal, and the teeth reward you with longer service.

DeWalt claims up to 50% longer life over the prior generation in black pipe. I didn’t attempt a lab-grade comparison, but the behavior under heat and load suggests the metallurgy is right where it should be for a bi‑metal cup in this class.

Quirks and limitations

• No arbor or case included: You’re buying a single cup. Factor in a compatible mandrel if you don’t already have one.
• Initial thread tightness: The paint can make the first install feel sticky. Thread it on and off once and the issue disappears.
• Power requirements: Technically a small chuck will do, but realistically you want a higher‑torque drill and low RPM, especially in hardwood or metal.
• Depth ceiling: The 1.75-inch depth clears standard 2-by material in one pass but won’t reach through doubled plates; plan for a second pass from the opposite side or clear the plug and continue carefully.

Best practices for clean results

• Use low speed, high torque; don’t feather the trigger at high RPM.
• Let the teeth do the work; steady feed pressure beats force.
• Back out to clear chips on deep cuts.
• Use cutting fluid on metal; a dab makes a big difference.
• Back fragile surfaces with scrap to minimize tearout.
• Wear gloves when removing plugs—the teeth are genuinely sharp.

Value and who it’s for

This DeWalt hole saw feels like the right choice for anyone who drills a lot of 1-1/2-inch holes in wood but wants legitimate cross‑material capability. Electricians, HVAC installers, and general carpenters will appreciate the one‑pass depth and dependable tracking. For DIYers, it’s forgiving and fuss‑free as long as you pair it with an appropriate drill and a proper arbor.

It’s not a specialized metal‑only cup, and it’s not a bargain‑bin throwaway. It sits in that dependable middle ground: consistent, predictable, and built to last through real work.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt hole saw. The reasons are straightforward: it cuts clean, tracks true, clears chips better than many competitors, and the deep cup saves time on 2-by material. The continuous plug‑ejection slot is genuinely useful, and the bi‑metal, HSS edge holds up well across wood and light metal. You’ll need a proper arbor and a drill with real torque, and the first thread engagement can be sticky, but once it’s in service the saw becomes a reach-for-it tool—reliable, efficient, and easy to live with.