Skil 18 Pc. Scroll Saw Blade Set

First impressions and setup

I put the Skil 18-piece blade set to work across a handful of small-shop tasks: simple scrollwork in 1/4-inch Baltic birch, decorative curves in 3/4-inch poplar, and a couple of acrylic panels cut for a jig. Out of the sleeve, the blades look and feel like everyday, general-purpose scroll saw stock—no exotic profiles, just straightforward, precision-sharpened teeth on 5-inch high‑carbon steel. What stood out first was consistency: the ends were square and clean, and the blades seated in my clamps without fiddling.

The set includes both pinned and plain-end blades. That duality matters. Pinned blades drop right into older or entry-level saws and make blade changes quick. Plain ends are the ticket for finer fretwork, tight inside cutouts, and saws with screw-clamp holders. I used both; the pinned ends for roughing and quick templates, the plain ends whenever I needed smaller starter holes or tighter radii. All blades are 5 inches, which fits most scroll saws without drama.

The assortment and how I used it

You get three pitches: 10 TPI, 15 TPI, and 18 TPI (six of each). That range covers the bulk of hobby and light-shop needs.

• 10 TPI: My choice for faster progress in thicker stock (3/4-inch softwood or poplar). It clears chips well and resists wandering with a steady feed, though it leaves a slightly rougher kerf.
• 15 TPI: The general-purpose blade. In 1/2-inch material it balances speed and finish nicely and handled gentle curves without complaint.
• 18 TPI: The cleaner cutter for thin stock, veneers, and plastics. It’s slower in hardwoods, but it leaves fewer nibs and requires less sanding.

Switching between the three gives you a clear sense of intent: coarse for speed, medium for everyday patterns, fine for finish and small inside corners. For a starter or backup kit, it’s a sensible spread.

Cutting performance in wood

In 1/4-inch Baltic birch ply, the 18 TPI blades tracked well and produced a neat edge that needed minimal cleanup—just a couple passes with 220 grit. Small-radius turns were predictable as long as I kept a light hand and let the teeth do the work. I didn’t experience the grabby behavior you sometimes get with poorly hardened HCS.

Moving to 3/4-inch poplar, the 10 TPI blades made steady progress without excessive heat. The kerf was fair, with slight fuzzing on the exit face that sanded out. I tried pushing the 18 TPI in the same stock; it could do it, but you’re inviting heat and burn marks if you rush. In hardwood offcuts (oak and maple), the 10 TPI was the only pitch that felt appropriate. It’s not a production blade, but it handled a couple of decorative S-curves and a small bracket pattern without dulling out immediately.

Tracking was respectable across the board. With proper tension—enough to get a crisp, high ping—the blades ran true and resisted wandering, especially at moderate feed rates. Over-tightening will shorten their life, so I kept tension firm but not aggressive.

Cutting plastics

For acrylic and polycarbonate, I stuck with 18 TPI and slowed the saw. Light, steady feed is key; push too hard and you’ll see melting or chip welding along the kerf. With the right pace, the cut edges were clean enough to flame-polish or simply scrape and buff. The 15 TPI worked on thicker polyethylene, but I wouldn’t use 10 TPI on most plastics unless I needed a fast rough cut and didn’t care about finishing.

Accuracy, control, and finish

On intricate shapes, the plain-end blades gave me better control in tight turns and through tiny pilot holes. Pinned blades are convenient but require a larger entry hole, so they’re not ideal for delicate fretwork. Edge quality was predictable: the 18 TPI produced the cleanest face, the 10 TPI the roughest, and 15 TPI sat comfortably between. Tear-out was minimal in ply when I oriented the good face up; reverse-tooth blades would improve the bottom face further, but this set isn’t specialized in that way.

Heat management was decent. If I noticed warmth at the blade, backing off the feed and increasing stroke speed kept things under control. A light wax on the workpiece helped reduce friction on longer cuts.

Durability and blade life

These are high‑carbon steel blades, not bi-metal, so expectations should be realistic. HCS cuts crisply when sharp but gives up edge life sooner than premium alloys. Within that frame, the lifespan here was better than I anticipated. I completed multiple small projects (dozens of linear feet of cutting in wood plus some acrylic) before needing to toss the first 15 TPI blade. The 10 TPI held up well in poplar; it dulled faster in oak, as expected. Premature breakage wasn’t an issue for me; the only breaks I had were my fault—tight turns without relief cuts and one instance of over-tension.

Clamping security was solid. The ends are uniform, and I had fewer slip incidents than with a couple of bargain-bin sets I keep around for rough tasks. If your saw’s clamps are clean and the ends are correctly seated, these stay put.

Compatibility and blade ends

The ability to switch between pinned and plain ends in one assortment is the set’s quiet strength. If you’re teaching, outfitting a shared shop, or inheriting a saw with pin-style holders, you’re covered. If your saw takes only plain ends, you’ll still use the pinless blades and can treat the pinned ones as emergency spares or swap to a pin holder if your saw supports it. Either way, the 5-inch length keeps things standard.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Not for metal. HCS will dull almost immediately on ferrous materials and doesn’t belong near aluminum either. Stick to wood and plastics.
• No ultra-fine pitches. If you live in the 20–28 TPI range for museum-grade fretwork, this set tops out at 18 TPI.
• Pinned blades restrict tiny interior cutouts. Use the plain ends for delicate patterns.
• Heat in dense hardwoods. The 18 TPI can burn if you push; use the 10 TPI, slow down, and let the saw do the work.

Practical tips for best results

• Match blade to material: 10 TPI for thicker stock, 15 TPI for general work, 18 TPI for thin wood and plastics.
• Tension properly: firm, musical ping, but don’t overtighten.
• Use relief cuts for tight scrolls to reduce twisting stress.
• Keep speeds moderate to high for wood; slow down for plastics and use a light feed to prevent melting.
• Clear dust often. A small air puff or pause improves cooling and cut quality.
• Flip the workpiece if you need a cleaner bottom face; plan to sand lightly regardless.

Value and who it’s for

As a general-purpose assortment, this set makes sense for hobbyists, students, and anyone who wants a reliable mix of pitches without chasing specialty blades. If you’re outfitting a school shop or you only scroll a few weekends a month, you’ll appreciate the consistency and compatibility more than exotic metallurgy. Professionals who cut intricate fretwork every day will still want premium, task-specific blades in finer pitches, but I kept reaching for this set for templates, jigs, and decorative accents—it just works.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skil 18-piece blade set for everyday scroll saw work in wood and plastics. It offers a sensible spread of tooth counts, reliable clamping with both pinned and plain ends, and predictable cutting behavior across common materials. It’s not a specialist’s kit for ultra-fine fretwork or metal, and it won’t outlast premium alloys in production settings. But for most shops and most projects, it delivers clean, controllable cuts and good value. If you need a trustworthy, compatible assortment to keep your saw ready for anything from quick brackets to small decorative patterns, this set is an easy yes.