BXI Ceramic Fiber Thermal Insulation Board(2732F) - 12'' X 8'' X 0.4'', Pack of 1 - Inorganic - Flame Retardant, Heat Resistant, High Temperature Insulation

Why I reached for this board

I needed a compact, rigid heat shield I could cut cleanly and fit into a few different high-heat projects: patching a small tabletop furnace, upgrading a soldering station surface, and isolating a generator exhaust from a plastic shed wall. The BXI ceramic fiber board looked like the right balance of temperature rating, workability, and price. After several weeks of use—and more than a few cuts and drill holes—I’m impressed by how much performance you can squeeze out of a 12 x 8 x 0.4 inch panel.

What it is

This is a dense, inorganic aluminosilicate ceramic fiber board (600 kg/m³) rated Class A1 fire resistant. The manufacturer lists a long-term service temperature to about 2552°F (1400°C) with a maximum of 2732°F (1500°C), a thermal conductivity of 0.082 W/m·K, and an R-value of roughly 0.12 m²·K/W at the 10 mm thickness. In plain terms: it’s a rigid, noncombustible hot-face and heat-shield material you can machine with simple tools. At 0.68 lb, it’s light enough to mount with simple hardware but not so delicate that it collapses in your hands.

I used the 12 x 8 x 0.4 inch size; it’s a handy “tile” form factor for localized shielding, furnace baffles, backers, and small patch jobs.

Build and workability

The board arrives cleanly cut with square edges and a smooth, chalky surface typical of ceramic fiber boards. It’s substantially stiffer than the common ceramic fiber blankets, and—important for shop use—there’s no resin-binder odor during first heat because it’s inorganic. The rigidity is a double-edged sword: it’s easier to handle and mount than blanket insulation, but it can chip if you try to snap it like drywall.

Cutting is straightforward:

• Utility knife for shallow scoring and trimming
• Fine-tooth pull saw or hacksaw for full-through cuts with minimal edge crumble
• Oscillating multi-tool for notches and curves
• Carbide grit hole saw or a masonry bit (low speed) for clean holes

Don’t try to score-and-snap; you’ll get ragged edges and unexpected fractures. If you need tight clearance holes, drill progressively with light pressure and back the board with scrap wood.

Thermal performance in practice

On my soldering bench, I used a full sheet as a work surface for silver soldering with a propane torch. With localized heating on small jewelry-sized parts, the board kept heat confined to the work area and the back of the panel remained warm but touchable immediately after a heat cycle. That squares with the numbers—at only 10 mm thick, this isn’t a deep insulator—but as a hot face, it does an excellent job minimizing heat soak into your bench.

In the tabletop furnace, I cut a replacement baffle from the board, seated it against the hot face, and fired multiple heat cycles to bright orange with controlled cool-downs. The board tolerated the thermal shock without cracking or spalling. I also hit cutoffs with a propane torch to a dull red and let them air cool repeatedly; no warping, and only light surface sintering as expected.

For the generator shed, I sandwiched a cut panel between plywood layers with a large passthrough for the exhaust line. The goal was to shield a plastic wall from radiant heat. With an IR thermometer, the wall temperature dropped to safe levels even during extended runtime. If you’re using it in a similar “heat shield” configuration, a thin air gap (5–10 mm) between the board and the protected surface improves performance substantially.

Mounting and use tips

• Use large washers or backing plates under fastener heads. The board is rigid, not structural; point loads can crush it.
• For flame-facing surfaces, a light coat of kiln wash or a proper ceramic fiber rigidizer helps harden the surface and reduce dusting. Sodium silicate works in a pinch if you cure it properly.
• If abrasion is likely (e.g., wood logs dragging across a fireplace baffle), add a thin sheet-metal face or a refractory coating.
• Keep it dry. Ceramic fiber board loses strength when wet and regains most of it after drying, but avoid environments with persistent moisture. For splash-prone areas, aluminum foil tape (high-temp rated) on edges helps.
• Manage dust. Cutting and handling shed fine fibers. I wore a respirator (P2/N95 or better), vacuumed with a HEPA shop vac, and wiped down with a damp cloth.

Durability

After multiple hot-cold cycles, the board still sits flat and intact. Edges will ding if you bang it around, and there’s some surface powdering as it gets handled, which is normal for this class of material. The inorganic composition pays dividends: there was essentially no smell on first fire, and no visible smoke. In areas where I expect abrasion, the kiln-wash/ridgizer coat cut down the dusting and made cleanup easier.

This isn’t a wear surface and shouldn’t be treated like a ceramic tile or a brick; if you need mechanical strength or direct flame impingement from a blower-fed burner day in and day out, consider a refractory brick or castable hot face with this board as a backer.

Where it shines

• Hot face/backer in small furnaces, forges, and kilns
• Soldering and brazing stations as a bench protector and radiant heat sink
• Stove and pellet stove baffles, backers, and gap fillers
• Heat shields in enclosures (generator sheds, equipment cabinets) where you need a compact, rigid panel
• Automotive/motorcycle heat isolation when mounted properly with standoffs and protected from moisture and road debris

Its compact size makes it ideal for repairs and localized upgrades. I particularly like it as a “problem solver” tile: cut a strip here for a heat break, a plate there to shield a cable bundle, and you’ve solved multiple issues with a single panel.

Limitations to consider

• Thickness: At 10 mm, you get excellent hot-face performance but modest total insulation. For deep heat loss reduction, stack layers or pair with a ceramic blanket behind it.
• Fragility: Rigid but brittle. It doesn’t like point loads, impact, or aggressive score-and-snap techniques.
• Dust: Like all ceramic fiber products, this sheds fine particles when cut or abraded. Handle accordingly and seal when practical.
• Size: 12 x 8 inches is great for spot work; larger projects will eat multiple panels quickly.
• Not food safe: Don’t line a pizza oven deck or use near food preparation surfaces.

Value

As a replacement for OEM stove and furnace panels, this is cost-effective and easier to obtain. For custom heat shielding and small-scale thermal projects, you get industrial-grade temperature ratings in a format you can shape with basic hand tools. I appreciate that the board’s performance matches its datasheet claims; the lack of off-gassing and the clean high-temp behavior are standout positives.

Who it’s for

• Makers, jewelers, and metalworkers who need a reliable soldering/brazing surface
• Hobbyists and techs repairing small furnaces, stoves, and kilns
• Anyone building compact enclosures near engines, burners, or heaters who needs a rigid, noncombustible barrier
• Professionals looking for a hot face or backer behind hard refractory in small to mid-size builds

If you need a structural refractory, a heavy abrasion layer, or deep insulation in one step, this board isn’t the right tool alone—but it’s an excellent component in a layered system.

Recommendation

I recommend the BXI ceramic fiber board. It hits the sweet spot of high temperature rating, low odor/smoke thanks to its inorganic composition, and genuine ease of machining. In my projects it handled repeated thermal cycles without complaint, materially reduced heat transfer in shield configurations, and was simple to cut and fit. Be mindful of dust, protect edges, and don’t expect thick-insulation performance from a 10 mm panel. Used appropriately—as a hot face, backer, or compact heat shield—it’s a dependable, cost-effective solution.