Juvale Insulation Foam Board Sheets - 11 x 17 in, 1 in Thick, White, 6-Pack - Foam Board for Crafts, Models & Sculptures

What I tested

I’ve been working with a 6-pack of 1-inch-thick white foam boards from Juvale for a mix of jobs: quick insulation fixes around a window unit, lining a small outdoor cat shelter, mock-ups for a sculpture base, and some Halloween props. At 17 x 11 inches, each panel is big enough for small projects and modular layouts, and small enough to cut on a desk without wrestling a full sheet of insulation. The boards are lightweight, rigid for their weight, and arrive clean and true to the listed footprint.

Material and build

These are expanded polystyrene (EPS) boards—the familiar bead-foam you see in packaging—rather than the denser, extruded polystyrene (XPS) you might use for precise model-building. You can see the fine bead structure on the edges after a cut. That matters for two reasons:

• Cutting and shaping are straightforward with a sharp knife, but edges can be a little crumbly compared to XPS.
• The surface takes paint well when primed or sealed, but raw edges benefit from a skim coat or sealer to reduce bead shedding.

Density feels medium for craft-grade EPS: light enough to carry an entire 6-pack without effort, yet rigid enough that a single board doesn’t flop around. They accept push pins, bamboo skewers, and toothpicks without tearing out immediately, which is helpful for temporary assembly, pinning templates, or mounting lightweight displays.

Thickness on my set was close to spec, but not machining-grade consistent; a few sheets were shy by roughly a millimeter or two. For most craft and insulation uses, that’s fine. If you’re building a precision jig or a perfectly level riser for photography, expect to sand, shim, or choose a higher-tolerance material.

Cutting and shaping

For straight cuts, a fresh snap-off utility blade and a metal straightedge did the job in two to three passes. The trick is light scoring first, then deeper passes to avoid tearing beads. Curves are easy with a craft knife using short, controlled strokes. A hot-wire cutter also works, though on EPS it can leave a faintly textured cut and gives off fumes—ventilation is non-negotiable if you go this route.

To clean up edges, I like a quick pass with 220–320 grit sandpaper or a sanding sponge. For a more finished look (especially where edges will be visible), a thin skim of lightweight spackle and a coat of acrylic primer turns bead-foam into a convincingly solid “panel.”

If you need dowel or PVC inserts, pre-drill with a dull bit or twist a slightly undersized round file by hand; EPS will compress around the insert and hold well. For repeated stress or load, reinforce with PVA or epoxy (foam-safe) and consider a paper or fabric wrap.

Finishing and paint

Acrylics, craft paints, and brush-on gesso adhered smoothly and dried evenly. Raw EPS and most rattle-can solvent paints don’t mix; solvent propellants can melt foam. If you must use spray paint, seal the surface first with brush-on primer or Mod Podge, or use a water-based spray specifically labeled foam-safe.

For scenic pieces—tombstones, faux stone, architectural details—the 1-inch thickness gives a convincing profile, and the surface textures well with a combination of scoring, stippling, and dry-brushing. I had no issues with warping during painting, even with wet coats, provided I let both sides get at least a light sealer to balance moisture.

Adhesives and joining

Use foam-safe options: PVA (white glue), wood glue, low-temp hot glue, and construction adhesives labeled safe for polystyrene. Solvent-based contact cements or standard construction adhesives can eat EPS. For quick bonds, low-temp hot glue grabbed reliably without melting the surface; for larger panels, a thin, even PVA layer plus tape or weight for clamping gave clean, flat joints.

Mechanical joins are easy with toothpicks or skewers as dowels; they’re great for alignment while glue cures. If you’re making boxes or shells, reinforce interior corners with paper tape soaked in PVA or strips of lightweight cardstock.

Insulation and practical fixes

These boards are handy for light-duty, temporary insulation. I cut strips to close gaps around a window AC baffle and to line a small outdoor cat shelter. EPS has a respectable per-inch thermal resistance (think roughly R-4), and in small enclosures the difference is noticeable. That said, this isn’t a building-code insulation panel: there’s no facers, no tongue-and-groove, and no fire rating advertised. Use it for stopgaps, prototypes, and small enclosures; for permanent installs, choose rated insulation and follow local code.

For pet shelters or outdoor boxes, I recommend:

• Sealing inner surfaces with taped seams or a thin corrugated plastic skin to protect against claws and moisture.
• Raising the floor off the ground and adding a moisture barrier.
• Avoiding direct heat sources—EPS is combustible and should be kept away from heaters.

Durability

As a craft substrate, durability is good once surfaces are sealed or skinned. Raw edges will shed beads with repeated handling. After sealing with primer or a PVA wash, abrasion resistance improves dramatically. I used a few offcuts as cabinet-top risers to level decorative trays; they’ve held shape and didn’t compress under light loads. For heavier or repeated load-bearing use, add a rigid face (foam-core board, thin plywood, or plastic sheet) to distribute weight.

Size, packaging, and handling

The 17 x 11-inch footprint is clever. It’s tabloid-friendly for template printing, fits standard cutting mats, and stores easily on a shelf. The 6-pack gives enough material for multiple small builds, a single larger mock-up, or to batch-produce party decor pieces. My set arrived with square corners and flat faces. A few edges had minor shipping dings, but those trimmed away in the first cut.

Where it shines

• Quick Halloween props, party decor, and signage where a 1-inch profile adds presence
• Diorama bases and terrain with textured, paintable surfaces
• Lightweight risers and supports under trays or displays
• Small insulation tasks (window gaps, pet shelters, boxes) where ease of cutting and fitting matters
• Mock-ups and templates for larger builds

Where it struggles

• High-precision model-making that demands razor-clean edges and perfectly uniform thickness
• Permanent insulation requiring rated materials, proper facers, and flame/smoke compliance
• Wet or high-abrasion environments unless skinned or sealed
• Solvent paint and adhesive workflows

Tips to get the best results

• Use a sharp blade and multiple light passes; don’t try to cut through in one go.
• Seal edges with PVA or gesso before painting for a cleaner finish and fewer loose beads.
• For spray finishes, brush on a water-based primer first to protect the foam.
• Reinforce corners with paper tape or cardstock when building boxes or shells.
• If uniform thickness matters, plane or sand the piece after bonding, or shim during assembly.
• For insulation use, tape seams and consider a thin plastic or cardboard skin for durability.

Alternatives worth considering

If you need cleaner cuts and tighter tolerances, look at XPS foam sheets (often blue or pink) or foam-core boards with paper facers. They’re denser, cut more cleanly, and hold edges better, though they can be harder to source in small 1-inch-thick sheets. For permanent insulation, choose rated panels with proper facers and comply with local codes.

The bottom line

Juvale’s foam boards are a practical, flexible material for makers, decorators, teachers, and anyone tackling small insulation fixes. They’re easy to cut, accept paint well when sealed, and the 1-inch thickness opens up projects that thinner foam-core can’t handle. You trade off some edge crispness and thickness exactness compared to denser foams, but for most craft and light-duty tasks, the performance is solid and predictable.

Recommendation: I recommend these boards for craft, modeling, props, and temporary insulation projects. They’re lightweight, easy to work with using basic tools, and versatile across a surprising range of tasks. If your work demands perfectly clean cuts, solvent spray finishes, or precise thickness control, step up to a denser foam or a different substrate. For everyone else, this set is a reliable, no-fuss way to keep creative and practical projects moving.