BOXOB 3 Gram Silver Solder for Jewelry Making, 1.5x1.5mm Low Temp Precut Silver Chips for DIY Repair Soldering and Welding Projects Supplies Accessories

A bench-friendly “easy” silver solder that rewards good prep

The BOXOB silver solder chips landed on my bench alongside a few half-finished prototypes, a tray of jump rings that needed closing, and a sterling bezel that had been mocking me for days. Precut to 1.5 × 1.5 mm and sold in a 3 g packet, the chips are billed as a low-temperature option with a 1325°F (718°C) flow point—squarely in “easy” silver solder territory. That sets expectations: fast to flow, forgiving on delicate pieces, but not the right choice for the earliest steps in a multi-stage build where you’d normally start with hard, then medium, then easy.

After a week of soldering sterling and a bit of brass and copper, here’s how these chips behaved for me, what they do well, and when you might want a different form or grade of solder.

What you’re getting and who it’s for

• Precut 1.5 × 1.5 mm silver solder “pallions,” 3 g total
• Nominal melt/flow around 1325°F (718°C), i.e., an “easy” silver solder
• A format meant for pre-placing chips on fluxed joints or pick-soldering tiny connections

This format is particularly convenient for small jewelry tasks: closing jump rings, attaching earring posts, tacking on small decorative elements, and repair work where you want minimal solder and minimal risk of overheating. It’s less ideal if you rely on feeding wire into a seam, or if you’re building complex assemblies that require stepping down from hard to medium to easy without previous joints reflowing.

Despite broader claims about “welding” or “electrical repair,” these chips are a silver brazing alloy and run hot. They are suitable for metal-to-metal jewelry work on copper, brass, sterling, and certain gold alloys—not for electronics or heat-sensitive components.

My setup and test pieces

• Torches: a small butane micro torch, standard air-propane, and oxy-propane for heavier sections
• Flux: boric acid/alcohol dip firecoat, then paste flux at the joint (Handy Flux and a comparable store brand both worked)
• Metals: 925 sterling sheet and wire, copper sheet, and a couple of brass findings
• Joints: 0.8–1.2 mm sterling jump rings, a sterling bezel seam on 22 ga backplate, an earring post on a copper test disc, and a brass ring with 2 mm wall

Melt and flow behavior

On clean, tight-fitting joints with fresh flux, the BOXOB silver solder chips wet and run as expected for an easy-grade silver solder. Heat the assembly, not the chip; bring the metal up to temperature and let the solder be drawn into the seam. On jump rings, I could place a single chip at the gap and watch it flash across with a brief, focused pass of a butane torch. The flow line was clean, and after pickling and a quick brush, the seam took a polish without a visible “bleed.”

The bezel seam was similarly straightforward. I pre-tinned the seam by sweat-soldering: fluxed both edges, placed a few chips evenly along the outside, brought them to flow, then seated the bezel to the backplate and reheated. The solder reflowed smoothly with good capillary action and minimal cleanup—exactly what you want from an easy solder during a final-stage operation.

On heavier stock (the brass ring), the chips still performed, but only after stepping up from butane to a hotter flame. This isn’t a knock on the solder so much as a reminder: it’s the mass of the workpiece, not the chip itself, that governs how much heat you need. Once the brass came up to temperature, the solder flashed and drew cleanly.

Control, metering, and cleanliness

The 1.5 mm square format offers good metering. For most small jewelry joints, one or two chips were enough; the size kept me honest about not flooding seams. Consistency was decent—most chips were uniform, with only a couple stuck together from the bag (easily separated with tweezers).

Flux compatibility was not fussy. Paste flux buffered the chip through the preheat, and there was no unusual spattering or pitting when I kept the flame moving and avoided prolonged direct heat on the pallion. After quench and pickle, the joints were bright and needed little more than a brass brush or light emery before finishing.

As with most easy solders, color match on sterling was acceptable once finished, though not identical in raw, unpolished state. Keep the solder line narrow and you won’t see it.

Heat source and technique considerations

• Butane micro torch: Fine for tiny parts—jump rings, earring posts, light findings. Expect to struggle on anything with real thermal mass.
• Air-propane: The sweet spot for small to medium jewelry assemblies and repairs.
• Oxy-fuel: Handy if you’re working heavy brass or want quick, localized heat.

The chips’ 1325°F flow point is appropriate for “easy” solder. If you’re seeing sluggish melting, the culprit is usually one of three things: joint not clean/tight, flux exhausted before the piece came to temperature, or the workpiece is wicking heat away faster than your torch can supply it. Address those, and the solder behaves.

Where these chips shine

• Repair work and final assembly steps: As an easy solder, they minimize the risk of reflowing earlier joints.
• Small-scale jobs: Precut chips are fast to place and limit excess solder.
• Beginners learning heat control: The format encourages correct technique—heat the work, not the solder—and makes it obvious when you’ve used enough.

Where they struggle

• Multi-step builds: If your workflow depends on hard/medium/easy progression, having only an “easy” grade on hand is limiting. You’ll want a full range of grades for complex work.
• Large/heavy pieces: Not a failing of the alloy, but you’ll need a hotter torch and solid heat management. Butane will not cut it for big brass or thick sterling.
• Electronics and heat-sensitive repairs: Despite broad “versatile” claims, these run too hot for most electrical work and can damage components or insulation.

Practical tips to get the best results

• Prep is everything: File or sand mating surfaces, degrease, and ensure a tight mechanical fit. Solder will not bridge gaps.
• Flux generously and refresh if it burns out: A good paste flux and a boric acid firecoat reduce oxidation and firescale on sterling.
• Place chips where the solder should end up, not where you start the heat: Solder follows heat and capillary paths.
• Heat the assembly evenly, then bias the flame toward the joint: When the flux goes glassy and clear and the metal reaches temperature, the solder will flash.
• Avoid chasing the chip: If it’s balling up, you’re heating the chip more than the work. Back off, heat the surrounding metal, and let capillary action do the work.
• Quench and pickle promptly: Clean joints make inspection and finishing easier. Use copper tongs or brass tweezers to avoid contamination.
• Plan your solder grades: If you foresee multiple heat cycles, use hard for early joins, then step down. Save these chips for the last or near-last operations.

Durability and finishing

Strength was not a concern in my tests. The joints held up under light mechanical stress and took polishing well. On sterling, the solder line largely disappeared after filing, sanding, and buffing. On brass and copper, finish uniformity depended on keeping the seam narrow and avoiding excess solder—again, the chip format helps prevent over-application.

The bottom line

The BOXOB silver solder chips are a straightforward, bench-friendly “easy” silver solder. They flow at the expected temperature, wet clean metal well with standard fluxes, and the 1.5 mm pallions make it easy to meter out just enough solder for small joints. They’re at their best in jewelry repairs and final assembly steps, or any situation where you want quick flow with minimal heat risk to adjacent elements.

They’re less convincing as a one-size-fits-all solution. If you work on heavier pieces, plan on a hotter torch and solid heat management. If you build complex multi-joint assemblies, you’ll still want hard and medium solders on hand. And if your projects include electronics or temperature-sensitive parts, look to soft solders designed for that domain—these run too hot.

Recommendation: I recommend these chips for jewelers and DIYers who do small-scale silver, brass, and copper work and want a reliable easy-grade solder in a convenient pre-cut format. They’re especially good for repairs, finishing stages of assembly, and learning heat control. If you need a full progression of silver solder grades, or if your work leans toward heavy sections or electronics, pair these with other forms and alloys rather than relying on them as your only solder.