Jake Sales #10 x 1-3/4" Graystone Composite Decking Exterior Coated Wood Screw Torx/Star Drive Head - AQC Lumber Compatible

What I used and why

For a recent deck refresh, I needed a screw that would hold composite fascia and cap-stock decking without the telltale “mushroom” around the head. I reached for the Jake Sales composite deck screws in the Graystone color—a Torx T20, #10 x 1-3/4" fastener with a Type 17 tip, dual threads, and a diminishing head with reversing threads. On paper, that’s the right recipe for clean installs in dense, fibrous materials like composite and PVC cap stock. In practice, these screws mostly deliver on that promise, with a few quirks to be aware of.

Build and design

These are stout screws with a .195" shank and a compact head (0.266" width, 0.133" height). The T20 Torx drive is a smart choice; it provides positive engagement and helps avoid cam-out when driving into tough composite. The Type 17 self-drilling tip starts cleanly and resists “walking,” which matters when you’re trying to place a fastener precisely along a fascia’s edge.

The design element that sets these apart is the 10-degree diminishing head coupled with short, reverse threads just under the head. That combination is intended to do two things: pull the head cleanly into the surface and counteract the “mushrooming” you get when composite material is displaced instead of cut. Add in the dual-thread profile—coarser lower threads for bite, finer upper threads for control—and you’ve got a purpose-built deck/fascia screw rather than a generic exterior fastener.

Test setup

I used these screws on:
- 1/2" to 3/4" composite fascia over pressure-treated rim joists
- PVC cap-stock decking over treated joists
- A short run of composite railing blocking

Tools included a compact impact driver and a drill/driver for more controlled fascia work. I kept a countersink bit handy for problem spots and tested with and without pilot holes near board ends and edges.

Driving and seating performance

The Type 17 tip does its job. Starts were quick and accurate, even on slightly angled surfaces. With an impact driver, the screws drove smoothly and seated with a controlled finish most of the time. The T20 heads held the bit securely; I didn’t strip a head, and cam-out was rare.

Where technique matters is final seating. The reversing threads under the head can, in some cases, check the screw’s forward progress before the head fully nests. In thicker or very dense cap stock, that last millimeter of seating sometimes needed an extra nudge—either a brief burst with the impact driver or a light countersink pass. On fascia, which is thinner, fastener length plays a role; if you’re pushing the lower end of length for your stack-up, those reverse threads can engage before you’ve got enough bite in the framing to pull everything tight. In those scenarios, stepping up one size in length or pre-drilling a shallow countersink solved it.

Surface finish and mushrooming

Compared with generic decking screws, these Jake Sales composite screws produced noticeably cleaner finishes. On most drives, the diminishing head and reverse threads prevented that compressed “volcano” of composite around the head. In hotter conditions or on particularly rubbery cap stock, I still saw minor raised material, but it was less pronounced and more consistent than with standard heads. A slow, steady final seating with a clutch-equipped drill helps; blasting full tilt with an impact driver makes mushrooming more likely with any screw.

If your finish standard is dead flush and invisible, you’re probably using a plug system anyway. For exposed fasteners, these deliver a respectable, clean look with minimal surface disruption.

Holding power and feel

The dual-thread profile translates into solid holding power. Once set, the screws feel locked in, especially in composite over wood where the coarser lower threads bite the framing while the finer upper threads manage the composite interface. The shank thickness gives a reassuring sense of stiffness—no noodles here. I didn’t experience snapping or bending, even when correcting a few angled starts.

Color match

The Graystone coating is a muted gray-brown that blends nicely with a lot of contemporary composite colors. It’s not glossy, which helps it disappear, and the coating coverage was even across the screws I used. If you’re working on a very specific colorway, always test a couple against an offcut, but for typical gray/brown boards, it’s a good match.

Corrosion resistance

This is an exterior-coated screw, not stainless. The coating is uniform and feels durable; for inland or typical backyard decks, it’s appropriate. If you’re in a coastal or high-salt environment, I’d move to stainless to avoid long-term staining or corrosion worries. For standard exterior exposure, the coating is a practical balance of cost and durability.

Removal and adjustments

The reverse threads that help manage mushrooming also add resistance when backing a screw out. Most of the time, removal was fine with a steady reverse on the driver, but occasionally a screw would feel like it hung up under the head before releasing. That’s not unique to this design, but it’s worth noting: if you anticipate frequent repositioning, consider a pilot hole in the composite layer to reduce friction under the head. Avoid driving too close to the ends of composite boards; even with a Type 17 tip, you can still cause localized cracking or bulging at the edge. A small pilot really helps at board ends.

Best practices for clean results

• Use the right length. For fascia, ensure you’re getting at least 1" of bite into framing after passing through the fascia. If the screw is too short, the reverse threads can stall seating.
• Control the last quarter-turn. Switch to a drill/driver with the clutch set low for the final set to minimize mushrooming.
• Consider a shallow countersink for dense cap stock or if you want the head exactly flush without surface lift.
• Pre-drill near board ends or edges, especially on brittle composites, to prevent splitting or bulging.
• Stick with Torx T20 bits in good condition; worn bits increase cam-out risk.

Value and packaging

These screws are sold in smaller quantities as well as larger counts, which is ideal if you’re only doing fascia or a small railing job and don’t want a contractor-sized box. The feature set—Torx drive, Type 17 tip, dual threads, and mushroom-resistant head—puts them in the “composite-specific” category without the premium price of hidden fastener or plug systems. For visible-fastener projects, they represent good value.

Where they shine—and where they don’t

These shine for:
- Composite fascia installs where you want minimal mushrooming and reliable pull-down
- PVC and cap-stock decking where clean starts and consistent seating matter
- Color-matched exposed fastening on gray/brown boards

They’re less ideal for:
- Coastal or marine environments where stainless is preferred
- Applications demanding perfectly flush heads without any prep—some materials will still benefit from a light countersink
- Situations where you anticipate frequent removal or repositioning; the under-head threads can add resistance backing out

Alternatives and context

If you’re committed to zero-visible fasteners, a plug system matched to your board brand is still the gold standard—though it’s slower and pricier. For general exterior carpentry, a standard ceramic-coated screw will “work,” but you’ll likely fight more mushrooming and occasional cam-out in composite. These Jake Sales composite screws sit in a sensible middle ground: purpose-built for composite with design details that improve the finish, but still quick to install and reasonably priced.

Final take

The Jake Sales composite screws did what I needed them to do: start cleanly, seat reliably, hold tight, and keep surface mushrooming to a minimum. The Torx drive and Type 17 tip make them easy to use, and the reverse-thread head design is genuinely helpful—just be mindful of screw length and material thickness so you don’t stall before full seating. In very dense cap stock, a quick countersink gives consistently flush results.

Recommendation: I recommend these for anyone fastening composite fascia, cap-stock decking, or railing where a visible fastener is acceptable and you want a cleaner finish than generic deck screws provide. They’re a solid balance of performance and price. If you’re on the coast or require invisible fasteners, look to stainless or a plug system; otherwise, these Graystone screws are a reliable, user-friendly choice for composite work.