Jake Sales #10 x 1-3/4" Rustic Cedar Composite Decking Exterior Coated Wood Screw Torx/Star Drive Head - AQC Lumber Compatible

What these screws are and where they shine

I used these Jake Sales composite deck screws in Rustic Cedar primarily for fascia and trim on a composite deck, and they do their best work exactly there. At 1-3/4 inches long and #10 gauge, they’re sized right for fastening 1/2-inch composite fascia or trim boards into treated framing without blowing through the back of the rim joist. The exterior coating and color-matched head blend nicely with cedar-toned composites, and the star/T20 drive delivers confident engagement with far less cam-out than a Phillips or square recess.

If you’re looking for a grab-and-go option for fascia or other light face-fastening on composite, this 1-pound box (roughly 130 screws) is a practical size. I appreciated not having to buy an oversized contractor pack for a mid-sized project.

Fit, finish, and coating

The Rustic Cedar finish is a dark, natural brown that reads well against most cedar- and chestnut-colored composite boards. It’s not glossy or plasticky; it disappears nicely once the head is seated. The coating itself feels substantial and has held up to driver engagement and minor scuffs during handling. After rain and a few weeks of freeze/thaw cycles, I didn’t see any early corrosion or staining around the heads.

These screws are rated for use with ACQ-treated lumber, and that matters for fascia work since you’re typically going into treated rim joists. I’ve had off-brand coated screws show orange bleeding after a season; that’s not what I’m seeing here so far.

Driving experience

The T20 star recess is clean and consistent, which matters more than the marketing would have you believe. A good star drive lets you lean into the torque without chewing up the head, and I was able to drive these with a compact impact driver and a regular drill/driver with minimal cam-out. Get yourself a decent T20 bit—this box didn’t include one.

Threading is aggressive and holds well in framing. There’s a reverse-thread section near the head that’s designed to counter the “mushroom” effect in composites (that puffy ring of raised material around the head). It does help pull the fascia tight and keep the surface cleaner. However, there are two tradeoffs to be aware of:

• Starting bite: The point isn’t the sharpest I’ve used on composite-specific screws. In dense boards, especially at cooler temps, the screw can skate before it digs. A quick pilot solves it.
• Seating depth: If your overall stack is marginal for a 1-3/4-inch screw—say, thicker fascia over a furring strip—the reverse thread can engage prematurely and stall the screw before the head is fully seated. In those cases, drill a proper clearance hole in the fascia and a pilot into the framing and you’ll get predictable results.

With proper prep, I could drive these flush or just slightly below the surface without tearing. Without prep, they’ll go in, but you’re more likely to see minor surface bulging and occasional stops just shy of flush.

Countersinking and finish quality

These aren’t self-countersinking in the way some deck screws are (no cutting nibs under the head), and composite fascia is less forgiving than wood. If you’re after a perfectly flush or plug-ready finish, plan on a quick countersink. I used a 3/8-inch countersink bit and set a shallow pocket; the heads then landed cleanly without haloing the surface.

For plug work, the head diameter and height are sensible, and the shallow cone lets a standard composite plug sit neatly. If you’re face-screwing and leaving the heads visible, the color match and low-profile head help them disappear well enough for fascia runs.

Holding power and durability

Once seated, these hold tight. I didn’t see creep or gap opening along the fascia after a week of thermal cycling. The reverse-thread section locks the board down against the rim and seems to reduce the tendency of composites to pucker. I can’t yet speak to multi-year durability, but the coating and the snug pull-down give me confidence for trim-duty longevity.

Removal is the flip side of that coin. Backing a screw out after the reverse thread has done its job can be stubborn. With a clean pilot and a good bit, I could remove them, but they don’t back out as easily as a straight-thread cabinet screw. That’s a fair trade-off for holding power on fascia, in my view, but it’s worth knowing if you like to dry-fit and adjust.

Sizing and application guidance

At 1-3/4 inches, these are purpose-fit for fascia and thin trim. I would not choose them as a general deck-board fastener. For face-screwing deck boards, 2-1/2 inches (or longer) with cutting nibs under the head is my preference—more bite in the framing and cleaner self-countersinking in composites. If your project includes both deck boards and fascia, plan on two screw types.

For fascia specifically:

• Thickness: With 1/2-inch composite fascia into a solid rim, this length works. Add furring or thicker trim, and you may want a longer screw or a proper clearance hole.
• Edge distance: Stay at least 1 inch from board ends and edges to reduce splitting and blowout.
• Prep: A 3/16-inch clearance hole through the composite and a 1/8-inch pilot into the rim makes for consistent, flush results with fewer stalls.
• Speed and clutch: Drive at moderate speed with a clutch setting that stops just as the head kisses the countersink. It prevents over-torque and reduces surface mushrooming.

What I liked

• Reliable T20 star recess—little to no cam-out
• Color and finish blend well with cedar-toned composites
• Coating plays nicely with ACQ-treated framing; no early rust
• Reverse thread helps reduce mushrooming and keeps fascia tight
• Practical 1-pound box; you’re not stuck buying a bulk contractor pack

What could be better

• Tip isn’t particularly sharp; a pilot is often needed in dense composites
• Not self-countersinking—countersink bit recommended for clean results
• Reverse thread can stall the screw if your length is marginal or you skip a clearance hole
• Backing them out can be stubborn once seated

Tips for best results

• Pre-drill: 3/16-inch clearance in fascia, 1/8-inch pilot in framing
• Countersink lightly if you want perfectly flush heads or plan to plug
• Clamp long fascia runs to the rim to maintain a tight register while driving
• Use a quality T20 bit and steady, moderate speed—avoid hammering the last 1/4 turn with an impact
• Test on an offcut to dial in clutch and countersink depth before committing to visible faces

The bottom line

For composite fascia and trim, these Rustic Cedar screws do the core job well: they hold tight, resist corrosion, and visually blend in. You’ll get the best results if you treat them like composite-specific hardware—give them a clearance hole, a quick countersink, and drive with a light touch. If you’re expecting razor-sharp tips that start instantly in dense boards and heads that self-countersink without prep, you’ll be happier with a different, more aggressive deck screw designed for face-screwing full-thickness boards.

Recommendation: I recommend these screws for composite fascia and trim work, especially if you want a color-matched head and a manageable 1-pound pack. They aren’t universal deck fasteners and they do benefit from basic prep, but within their sweet spot they perform reliably and leave a clean, professional finish.