Plumb Craft Waxman PlumbCraft 27-Piece Complete Kitchen Sink Drain Repair Kit 7027010N, Various Kitchen Drain Pipes for Repairs to Problem Areas, Drain Assembly for Multiple Sink Pipe Options

Why I reached for this kit

A leaky, Frankensteined mess under a kitchen sink is the kind of problem that always seems to show up at the least convenient moment. I recently tackled a full rework under a dual-bowl sink—removing an old disposal, rerouting the drains, and tying in a dishwasher. Rather than piecing together fittings one by one, I put the PlumbCraft 27-piece kitchen drain kit to work. It’s billed as a “universal” solution for common 1-1/2-inch kitchen drains, and in practice, that description is mostly accurate. The short version: it gave me the parts and flexibility to rebuild the trap assembly cleanly and quickly, with enough leftovers to handle future tweaks.

What’s in the box

The kit is a comprehensive spread of white thermoplastic components: multiple straight tailpieces, slip-joint elbows, a J-bend, a P-trap, a center outlet tee for double sinks, and a branch with a dishwasher nipple. You also get a healthy assortment of slip nuts and polyethylene washers. Everything is slip-joint, so there’s no primer or cement involved—hand tools only. The plastic is lighter than schedule 40 PVC or ABS, but that’s expected for under-sink repair kits aimed at DIY installation.

Not every kitchen will use every piece, and that’s a feature, not a bug. The variety lets you assemble configurations that send waste to the wall or down to the floor, put the trap to either side, and choose center or end-outlet setups for double bowls.

Installation experience

I approached this like I would any under-sink rebuild: measured twice, dry-fit every joint, then trimmed as needed. A fine-tooth hacksaw makes short work of the straight pieces and lets you dial in pipe lengths without inducing awkward angles that can stress seals. Deburr cuts with a utility knife or some sandpaper—those little curls of plastic can create slow weeps if left on the pipe ends.

The supplied washers are the common tapered and flat styles you’d expect. Washer orientation matters: the bevel points into the fitting, not out. Hand-tighten slip nuts and then add a quarter turn with slip-joint pliers; over-tightening is how you deform washers and cause leaks later.

The instructions included are basic but serviceable—enough to confirm washer placement and part names, not a step-by-step for every scenario. If you’re new to traps and tees, a quick refresher from a reputable how-to video will fill the gaps. Still, the kit’s logic is straightforward: assemble from the sink tailpieces down and out, ending at the trap and then to the wall or floor stub.

Fit and compatibility

On a standard 1-1/2-inch sink setup, alignment was smooth. The center outlet tee made it easy to balance the two basins, and the dishwasher branch fit a typical 5/8-inch or 3/4-inch hose with a clamp. The P-trap included has enough adjustability to accommodate moderate offsets between basin outlets and the waste opening.

Where you can run into extra work is at the connection to existing building plumbing. Many modern homes will meet this kit’s slip-joint outlet without issue. Older homes or systems done in ABS or galvanized might require a coupler or an adapter. In my case, the stub-out didn’t match up perfectly with a slip joint, so I used a rubber no-hub coupler to make a clean, code-respectful transition. That’s not a flaw of the kit—just the reality of retrofits across mixed materials and vintages.

Durability and rigidity

Thermoplastic trap kits are not as thick or rigid as schedule 40 glued systems. This kit is no exception: the walls are on the thin side compared with heavy-duty plumbing, but well within the norm for under-sink slip-joint assemblies. The upside is easy cutting and forgiving alignment; the trade-off is slightly more flex when you push on the pipes. Once installed, the assembly felt secure with minimal wiggle, particularly after I trimmed pieces to avoid unnecessary spans.

For longevity, the weak points in any slip-joint kit are the washers and nuts. The supplied polyethylene washers sealed reliably in my build. If a nut feels flimsy to you, consider swapping that one component for a metal slip nut—mixing is fine as long as the sizing matches. Also, keep in mind that these plastics don’t love prolonged exposure to heat; don’t dump boiling water directly into the trap, and make sure the dishwasher hose has the proper high loop to prevent backflow and heat soak.

Sealing and performance

After filling both bowls and letting them run simultaneously, the assembly stayed dry. I always do a paper-towel test: wrap a dry towel around each joint for a minute while water flows—any weep shows up quickly. All joints passed without requiring re-tightening. That said, slip-joint systems benefit from revisiting after a few days; thermal changes and vibration can settle the washers. A quarter turn here or there keeps things leak-free.

The trap itself holds water as expected and clears well. With the dishwasher port capped initially, I later added the hose; the nipple size and length made for a snug clamped connection.

What it doesn’t solve

• Venting: This kit doesn’t include an air admittance valve or any venting components. If your sink gurgles or drains sluggishly, you may need to address venting per local code.
• Nonstandard interfaces: If your stub-out is an oddball size or material, plan for an adapter or coupler. That’s normal, but it’s not in the box.
• Heavy-duty expectations: If you want the rigidity of glued schedule 40 piping, this isn’t that. It’s designed for accessible, serviceable under-sink work.

Tips for better results

• Dry-fit first, then trim for length. Excess pipe creates leverage that leads to misalignment and leaks.
• Deburr every cut. Even tiny burrs can compromise washers.
• Respect slope. The horizontal run from the tee should have a slight downward pitch toward the trap and wall/floor outlet.
• Don’t overtighten. Slip-joint compression relies on shape, not brute force.
• Keep a few spare washers. They’re the consumables of a slip-joint system.
• Plan the dishwasher hose route with a high loop under the countertop edge to prevent backflow.

Value and who it’s for

The real appeal here is coverage. Whether you’re removing a disposal, converting a double bowl to single, or just replacing a leaky trap, the PlumbCraft kit gives you the common parts in one purchase. If your setup is straightforward, you’ll likely have extra fittings left over, which is great to have on hand for future fixes. If your plumbing is atypical or very old, expect to add a coupler or two to your cart.

For pros, this makes sense as a back-of-van kit when you want a clean, slip-joint solution without a supply house stop. For DIYers, it removes the guesswork of matching individual parts. The thermoplastic construction keeps cost low and installation easy, at the expense of the heft you get with thicker pipe.

Bottom line

The PlumbCraft 27-piece kit hits the sweet spot for versatility and simplicity. It’s not fancy, and it’s not meant to be permanent industrial plumbing. It is, however, a well-thought-out collection that solves a wide range of common under-sink drain problems with minimal tools and a forgiving learning curve.

Recommendation

I recommend this kit for homeowners and pros who need a flexible, cost-effective way to rebuild or modify standard 1-1/2-inch kitchen sink drains—especially when removing a disposal, tying in a dishwasher, or reconfiguring double bowls. It installs quickly, seals reliably when assembled with care, and includes enough options to handle wall- or floor-connected drains without multiple trips for parts. If you require heavy-duty, glued, schedule 40 rigidity or you’re dealing with nonstandard stub-outs and strict material requirements, plan for adapters or look to a glued system. For most kitchen sink repairs, though, this kit is exactly the straightforward solution it aims to be.