EFIELD Pex Ice Maker Outlet Box, 1/2-Inch Pex F1960 Expansion Fitting Connection with Installed 1/4-Turn Ball Valve, White, with Copper Arrestor,

Why I chose this outlet box

I wanted a clean, code-friendly way to add a dedicated water supply for a refrigerator during a small kitchen refresh. I was already running 1/2-inch PEX-A, and I wanted a quarter-turn shutoff, a standard 1/4-inch compression outlet for the fridge line, and a built-in hammer arrestor to keep the ice maker and water dispenser from thumping the pipes. The EFIELD outlet box (model MH) checks those boxes on paper, so I put it to work on a recent install.

What stands out

• Purpose-built for PEX-A expansion: The inlet is a true F1960 expansion connection, not a crimp/clamp adapter, which makes for a robust, full-bore union with PEX-A.
• Thoughtful plumbing features: A quarter-turn, lead-free brass ball valve is preinstalled, and the integrated copper hammer arrestor keeps quick-closing refrigerator solenoids from creating water hammer.
• Clean finish: The one-piece box with a snap-on faceplate produces a tidy look sized appropriately for a kitchen backsplash—visible but not obtrusive.
• Simple footprint: The rough opening (5 x 3-1/2 x 2-3/4 inches) fits comfortably in a 2x4 wall without crowding electrical or vent runs.

Installation experience

Framing the opening was straightforward. I located the stud bay, traced the cutout, and used an oscillating multi-tool to open the drywall. The shallow depth fits a standard interior wall easily, and the box doesn’t demand extra blocking or a proprietary bracket. While the design doesn’t require added support, I still prefer to catch at least one stud with a screw through a mounting tab when possible; it makes the assembly feel rock solid and keeps the valve from flexing if someone leans on a stubborn compression nut later.

On the supply side, I ran 1/2-inch PEX-A up from the basement and used an expansion tool with F1960 sleeves to make the connection. The fitting shoulder is well machined; the pipe seated cleanly and recovered to a tight, even grip after expansion. If you haven’t used PEX-A expansion before, remember to hold the pipe on the fitting until it recovers fully and give it a minute before pressure testing. On the outlet side, the 1/4-inch OD compression port takes a standard fridge supply line—copper or braided stainless. Don’t use thread tape on the compression threads; the seal happens at the ferrule.

The snap-on faceplate finishes the job. It’s a simple design that aligns easily and covers minor drywall imperfections. I hit the surrounding wall with a quick sand and paint touch-up, and the install looked like it had been part of the kitchen all along.

Build quality and design

The box itself is a thicker, more rigid plastic than some bargain-bin alternatives, and it doesn’t deform when you snug screws into the mounting tabs. The integrated flange is part of the same mold, which keeps the face plane true and reduces creaking in the wall. The brass ball valve turns smoothly and positively—no gritty feel or vague detents—so it’s easy to shut off without over-torquing. The copper hammer arrestor is compact and tucked where it won’t interfere with supply routing or the fridge hose.

I appreciate that the assembly is NSF/ANSI 61-G compliant for potable water. If you’re feeding an ice maker or drinking water dispenser, that’s the baseline you should expect.

Performance in practice

After pressure testing at house pressure and cycling the valve a dozen times, I didn’t see any weeping at the expansion joint or the compression outlet. The ball valve holds shut decisively, and the handle remains easy to reach once the fridge is in place. Most importantly, I didn’t get the telltale thud when the ice maker solenoid closed. The arrestor does its job—enough to protect runs with a few bends and long horizontal sections.

Over the first few weeks, I also checked for vibrational noise during fill cycles. With the box anchored to a stud and the PEX clipped along the run, the setup stayed quiet. The faceplate remained seated and flush, though I could flex a corner slightly if I pulled at it. For high-traffic locations, I’d still prefer a plate with screw fasteners, but for a refrigerator niche, the snap fit is fine.

Compatibility caveats

This box is designed specifically for PEX-A expansion systems. If your system uses stainless-steel cinch clamps or copper crimp rings (PEX-B or C with F1807/F2159 fittings), this is not the right inlet. You could theoretically adapt with fittings upstream, but you’d be creating unnecessary joints and potential leak points. Pair this unit with a true F1960 expansion tool and sleeves for the most reliable connection.

The outlet is the standard 1/4-inch OD compression common to refrigerators. If your appliance or filter system needs a different connection, plan for an appropriate adapter at the box or at the appliance end.

Small nitpicks

• Faceplate retention: The snap-on cover is quick, but the catch isn’t as assertive as a screw-fastened plate. Mine sits flush and hasn’t popped off, yet the engagement depth feels shallow. If the area gets bumped often, a small dab of clear silicone at two corners adds security without making future access difficult.
• Color and finish: The white plastic takes paint well but can pick up scuffs during install. If you’re matching a specific trim color, prime and paint the faceplate off the wall before mounting.
• No spare outlet: This is a single-outlet box. If you’re planning to feed a fridge and an under-sink filter from the same run, you’ll need to tee upstream.

Tips for a smooth install

• Pressure test before you close the wall. Even though this is a retrofit-friendly box, it’s easier to fix a compression ferrule or reseat an expansion sleeve before you mud and paint.
• Orient the valve handle for access. With counter-depth refrigerators, a horizontal handle can be easier to reach than vertical; set it before snapping the faceplate on.
• Support your PEX runs. Arrestors work best when the line isn’t flopping around; use proper clamps and avoid tight, kink-prone bends.
• Don’t mix systems. If you’re not already on PEX-A with an expansion tool, choose a box that matches your crimp/clamp system to avoid adapters and extra joints.

Value and alternatives

Feature-for-feature—lead-free quarter-turn valve, integrated arrestor, and a PEX-A expansion inlet—this box competes well with big-box offerings but often comes in at a friendlier price point. If you work primarily with PEX-A, it’s a sensible default. If you’re on PEX-B or prefer copper, you’ll want the corresponding variant with F1807 crimp or a soldered stub-out and a separate valve and arrestor.

Final recommendation

I recommend this EFIELD outlet box for anyone working with PEX-A expansion systems who wants a clean, reliable, and code-conscious refrigerator water hookup. The expansion connection is solid, the quarter-turn valve feels dependable, and the built-in hammer arrestor keeps the plumbing quiet. Installation is straightforward, the finish is tidy, and the overall build quality inspires confidence. The snap-on faceplate could be a bit more secure, but that’s a minor quibble in an otherwise well-executed design. If your plumbing is PEX-A, this box is an easy choice; if it isn’t, choose a model matched to your system rather than trying to adapt around it.