Eastman 1/2 Inch PEX Connection x 1/4 Inch OD Compression Ice Maker Outlet Box, Quarter Turn Ball Valve, Pre-Assembled, 60233

A recessed outlet box for a refrigerator should do three things well: provide a reliable shutoff, make clean connections to common supply lines, and sit flush and tidy in the wall. The Eastman ice maker box checks those boxes with a straightforward design that worked smoothly in my remodel and held up in testing.

What you get and how it’s built

Out of the package, the box arrives pre-assembled with a brass quarter-turn ball valve mounted in a white recessed housing, plus a support bracket and a snap-on faceplate. The inlet is 1/2-inch crimp PEX; the outlet is a 1/4-inch OD compression fitting for a standard refrigerator line. It’s lead-free compliant and UPC approved.

The housing is plastic, which keeps weight and cost down. The valve itself is all brass, and the machining on mine was clean—threads were smooth and the handle had a positive stop. Dimensions matter on a recessed part like this: the rough opening is 5-3/4 inches wide by 4-7/8 inches high by 3-1/2 inches deep. The faceplate is 8-1/4 by 7-5/16 inches, which gives you enough coverage to hide a careful drywall cut, even in a retrofit.

Installation: new work and retrofit

I installed the box as a retrofit behind an existing fridge location during a kitchen refresh. It’s designed for new construction (install the box before drywall, fasten to framing with the included bracket, then snap the plate later), but it adapts to old work with a couple of extra steps:

• Layout and cut the rough opening. The published dimensions are spot-on; I added a hair of wiggle room for shimming.
• Add backing. I fastened short wood cleats behind the drywall on each side so the box had something solid to bite into. In new construction the supplied support bracket handles this easily; in retrofit, self-tapping screws into blocking work fine.
• Dry-fit the box and valve. Removing the valve makes it easier to angle the box through the opening if space is tight. Reinstall the valve before final positioning.
• Make your connections. The 1/2-inch crimp PEX inlet is the right choice here. I used PEX-B with copper crimp rings and checked the crimp with a go/no-go gauge. If you’re on PEX-A expansion, plan on using a short PEX-A-to-crimp adapter or choose a model with an expansion inlet. For copper systems, don’t try to sweat close to the plastic box; transition to PEX with a push-to-connect or a sweated adapter well away from the cavity.
• Connect the fridge line to the 1/4-inch OD compression outlet. I used a braided stainless line with a compression end, hand-snugged and then tightened about a quarter-turn with a wrench. No thread tape on compression threads; let the ferrule do its job.

Once in place, the faceplate ratchets over the box. It’s quick and secure. I found the ratchet increments a bit coarse; on one side I couldn’t get it absolutely flush without either a small gap or a bit of compression against the drywall. Behind a refrigerator that isn’t a real-world issue, but it’s worth noting if you’re particular about trim details.

Performance and day-to-day use

After pressurizing the line and purging air, the valve sealed cleanly with no seepage at the stem or the connections. I left it under pressure for a day before moving the refrigerator back, then rechecked a week later—still dry. The quarter-turn action is firm. Mine was slightly stiff out of the box, which I actually prefer; it feels positive when you go for a quick shutoff.

As for flow, the box supplies a typical 1/4-inch line, so you won’t be constrained beyond what the fridge expects. If your home has noticeable water hammer when quick-closing valves operate, consider putting a water hammer arrestor in the line upstream; there isn’t one built into this box, and while my system was quiet, that’s more about the plumbing than the box.

Visually, the faceplate looks clean and the white finish blends into painted drywall. The brand name is molded prominently into the front. It’s not a design piece—and it doesn’t need to be—but the plate covers a slightly rougher cut without looking out of place.

Build quality and serviceability

The plastic housing is adequate and sturdy once anchored on both sides. If you’re used to metal outlet boxes, the plastic will feel lighter. I wouldn’t subject it to torch work or aggressive prying, but in normal use behind a refrigerator it’s perfectly appropriate. The brass valve is the star here: it’s compact, solid, and rebuildable if needed, though given the cost of the assembly, most users would replace the whole box if a valve ever failed years down the line.

One caution: keep open flame and extended heat well away from the installed box. If you must solder copper in the same run, do it on a bench and transition to PEX before you approach the cavity, or use a push-to-connect coupling. The plastic collar on the box will not tolerate the radiant heat from sweating.

Practical tips from the install

• Plan your stud bay. Center the box so you have room to manipulate the PEX crimp tool and the valve body before you fasten it down.
• Use the right ferrule. The 1/4-inch compression outlet expects a metal ferrule on copper or the integral cone on most braided stainless lines. Don’t try to use a plastic ferrule intended for soft plastic tubing.
• Flush before connecting. Run water into a bucket to clear debris and solder dust before attaching the refrigerator—your filter will thank you.
• Label the shutoff. A bit of tape or a marker on the faceplate makes it obvious which way is closed if someone unfamiliar needs to shut it off quickly.

Where it fits in the market

There are fancier boxes with integrated arrestors or dual valves, and there are sweat-in and push-to-connect inlet options for different plumbing ecosystems. The Eastman’s value is in its simplicity: one brass ball valve, a PEX crimp inlet that’s reliable and inexpensive to plumb, and enough trim to leave a clean finish. If you’re a copper-only installer who prefers to sweat everything, a metal box with a sweat inlet will make your life easier. If your system is PEX-heavy, this is the straightforward choice.

Pros

• Brass quarter-turn valve is compact, tight-sealing, and confidence-inspiring
• True 1/2-inch PEX crimp inlet simplifies tie-in to modern lines
• 1/4-inch OD compression outlet matches common fridge connectors
• Pre-assembled and sized accurately; faceplate covers a neat retrofit cut
• Lead-free and UPC approved

Trade-offs

• Faceplate ratchet steps are coarse; achieving a perfect flush fit can take finesse
• Valve handle may feel stiff at first
• Plastic housing isn’t compatible with nearby soldering heat
• Prominent branding on the faceplate, though it’s typically hidden behind the fridge

Bottom line

I installed the Eastman ice maker box to give a refrigerator a dedicated, cleanly finished supply point, and it performed exactly the way a simple plumbing component should: it went in without drama, sealed on the first try, and has stayed dry. The brass valve inspires confidence, the PEX crimp inlet makes for a quick and durable connection, and the faceplate leaves the wall tidy. The minor quibbles—coarse faceplate ratchets and a firm valve handle—don’t affect function.

Recommendation: I recommend this box for anyone running a new or retrofit refrigerator line in a PEX-plumbed home. It’s straightforward to install, uses the right connection types for the job, and delivers reliable shutoff and leak-free performance. If you plan to solder your supply lines at the wall, choose a metal, sweat-in valve assembly instead; otherwise, this is a dependable, no-fuss solution.