DeWalt 31/64" Pilot Point drill bit

A quietly capable 31/64-in bit that rewards careful technique

I reached for this 31/64-in DeWalt pilot‑point bit recently for a handful of shop tasks where a near‑half‑inch hole made sense: clearance holes in mild steel brackets, pass‑throughs in plywood for conduit, and a few test holes in ABS and aluminum. It’s a single, jobber‑length bit with a pilot‑point tip, a no‑spin shank, and a tapered web. Nothing flashy—just a solid general‑purpose cutter aimed at wood, mild steel, and plastics.

Design and build

The pilot‑point geometry is the headline feature. Unlike a standard 118° or 135° split‑point that skates a bit before it bites, the small center tip grabs immediately and guides the cutting lips into the work. That does two things well: it starts accurately without a center punch in softer materials, and it reduces the “snatch” you can get at breakthrough—especially in thin stock.

The shank is the familiar no‑spin style, which has been reliable in my keyed and keyless chucks. On larger diameters like 31/64 in, slip is a real annoyance; this bit stayed put even under higher torque. The web is slightly tapered toward the tip, which adds rigidity and reduces the tendency to snap if you’re a bit off square or you peck aggressively. Size markings are etched above the shank area, so they don’t fade from repeated chucking—handy when your drill index is a jumble and you’re squinting at similar sizes.

At 5‑15/16 in overall with 4‑3/8 in working length, it’s a standard jobber profile. That reach is enough for doubled 2x stock or through thicker steel angle while still maintaining decent stiffness.

Setup and speeds

This is a high‑speed steel, general‑purpose bit. It’s not what I’d choose for hardened steel or production drilling, but it’s right at home in mild steel, aluminum, wood, and plastics. The pilot‑point doesn’t change the fundamentals: speeds and feed matter.

What worked for me:
- Mild steel (A36, 1/8–1/4 in): around 400–500 RPM with cutting oil, steady feed, and short pecks to clear chips.
- Aluminum (6061, 1/8–1/4 in): 1,200–1,600 RPM, light oil or a dab of WD‑40 to reduce galling.
- Wood (plywood and SPF): high speed on a drill press or full trigger on a cordless drill, backing board to limit tear‑out.
- Plastics (ABS, acrylic): slow to medium speed with very light pressure to avoid melting; clear chips frequently.

Clamp your work. Even with the pilot point resisting grab, a near‑half‑inch bit can still yank a handheld drill when it breaks through.

Performance in wood

In plywood and construction lumber, the pilot point earned its keep. It self‑started accurately without a dimple and tracked straight without wandering along grain lines. Entry holes were clean; exit holes were reasonable with a backing board to control blowout. The shoulders of the hole were neat and round. In construction lumber, I could feed fairly aggressively without the bit binding, and the tapered web seemed to shed chips well enough that I didn’t feel starved for clearance.

Performance in mild steel

I tested in 1/8‑in and 3/16‑in mild steel flat and angle. The pilot point minimized walking even on slightly curved angle surfaces, though on layout‑critical holes I still prefer a quick center punch. The bit cut smoothly at ≈450 RPM with cutting oil. Chips were short and well‑formed. Breakthrough was controlled; I didn’t get the sudden grab that some standard points cause at exit. That’s a real benefit on handheld work where your wrist pays the price for surprise torque.

Edge quality in steel was decent. As with most twist bits, you’ll see a slight burr at the exit; a light pass with a deburring tool or file cleans it up. I wouldn’t use this on hardened fasteners or abrasion‑resistant plate, but for common shop steels it did exactly what it should.

Performance in aluminum and plastics

In 6061 aluminum bar, chip evacuation was fine and the surface finish inside the hole was good with lubrication. It started precisely without a pilot hole. In ABS sheet, the pilot point helped prevent skating, and running at a moderate speed with a gentle feed avoided melting and chip welding. Acrylic requires extra care; the bit will work, but a plastic‑specific grinder geometry is kinder. Still, with light pecks and low heat, I got clean results.

Accuracy and hole size

This is a 31/64‑in cutter—0.484 in—just shy of 1/2 in. If you’re aiming for a true 0.500‑in hole, plan to either follow up with a 1/2‑in reamer or switch to a 1/2‑in bit. For clearance on a 1/2‑in bolt, 31/64 is too tight; you’ll want a larger clearance size. Where this size shines is when you need “almost 1/2 in”: bushings, pass‑throughs where a snugger fit is fine, or when you’re prepping for a finishing operation.

Concentricity was good in both drill press and handheld use. The pilot point and consistent grind left me with round holes that measured close to nominal. In wood, the diameter was essentially spot‑on; in steel, slight spring and runout in a handheld drill can shrink effective size by a hair, as expected.

Durability and resharpening

Over a few dozen holes across the materials above, edge wear was minimal. The cutting lips still felt crisp, and the web didn’t show heat discoloration beyond normal straw tint when I kept speeds conservative and used oil on steel. The tapered web likely helps resist chipping at the margin when the bit breaks through.

One caution: pilot‑point bits aren’t as forgiving to resharpen on a bench grinder as standard split‑points. You can touch up the cutting lips, but preserving the pilot geometry is tricky without a jig. If you rely heavily on resharpening in‑house, this geometry may slow you down compared to a 135° split‑point.

Ergonomics and chucking

The no‑spin shank held firm in both keyless 1/2‑in chucks and older keyed chucks. On high‑torque cordless drills, that means fewer stops to re‑tighten. The size marking above the chucking zone is a small but welcome touch; repeated chucking hasn’t scrubbed it off, and grabbing the right bit from a pile is quicker.

Limitations

• Not for hardened steels or heavy production: choose cobalt or carbide for that.
• Pilot‑point resharpening is less straightforward than standard points.
• The 31/64‑in size is niche; if you need 1/2‑in clearance or true 0.500‑in bores, this isn’t the final step.
• In acrylics and brittle plastics, you’ll still need care to avoid cracking—this isn’t a single‑solution plastic bit.

Who it’s for

If you need a near‑half‑inch general‑purpose bit that starts accurately without a punch, this DeWalt pilot‑point option makes sense. It’s particularly handy for metalworkers and carpenters who drill a mix of materials and want fewer false starts and less grab at breakthrough. For machinists chasing tenths or users drilling hardened alloys, it’s the wrong tool.

Tips for best results

• Mark critical holes and use a light center punch in steel for repeatable placement.
• In steel, stay near 400–500 RPM with cutting oil; peck to clear chips.
• Back up plywood and laminates to reduce exit tear‑out.
• In plastics, slow down, lighten pressure, and clear chips frequently to keep heat down.
• Let the pilot point do the work—don’t force the feed, especially near breakthrough.

Recommendation

I recommend this 31/64‑in DeWalt pilot‑point bit for general shop and site work in wood, mild steel, and plastics. It starts cleanly, resists grab at exit, holds securely in the chuck, and offers solid durability for a jobber‑length bit. The geometry delivers practical benefits you can feel, especially on handheld drills where accuracy and control matter most. Just be mindful of the size’s niche role, respect appropriate speeds and lubrication, and don’t expect it to replace cobalt for hardened stock. Used within its lane, it’s a reliable, easy‑to‑live‑with bit that earns a spot in the index.