Easytle Cable Wire Clips 4mm 6mm 8mm 10mm (Pack of 200) Cable Management RG6 RG59 CAT5 CAT6 RJ45 Electrical Ethernet Dish TV Speaker Wire Cord Tie Holder Single Coaxial Nail Clamps

I picked up the Easytle cable clips to tame a growing tangle of low‑voltage lines around the house—Ethernet along baseboards, a speaker run across a doorway, and a camera cable under the eaves. After a few weeks of use (indoor and out), they’ve become my default, no‑fuss solution for neat, secure cable routing.

What you get and where they fit

The set includes 200 round clips in four sizes—4 mm, 6 mm, 8 mm, and 10 mm—each with a pre-mounted steel nail. The size spread covers most typical low‑voltage jobs:
- 4 mm: doorbell wire, thermostat cable, thin sensor leads
- 6 mm: small speaker wire, flat Ethernet cords, light-duty USB runs
- 8 mm: CAT5/CAT6 Ethernet, RG59 coax, thicker speaker wire
- 10 mm: RG6 coax, bundles of 2–3 small conductors

If you’re trying to secure thick outdoor extension cords, heavy 12/14 AWG power cable, or jacketed electrical (Romex), these aren’t the right tool—and local electrical code generally forbids nailing power cords to structures. For low‑voltage signal and data lines, though, the size range makes sense.

Build quality and design

The clip bodies are rigid enough to hold their shape, but they have just enough give to snap over the cable without nicking the insulation. The rounded profile spreads pressure evenly, which is especially important with coax; I didn’t notice any compression artifacts after installation. The nails are the standout: they’re straight, properly pointed, and hardened enough to sink into wood and drywall cleanly without bending. On masonry they’ll need a pilot hole (more on that below), but that’s expected for any nail‑in clip.

The white finish blends well on painted trim and ceilings. On darker substrates they’re obviously visible—paintability is decent with standard latex if you want them to disappear.

Installation experience

Installation is easy and predictably quick. Here’s what worked best for me:

• Spacing: 12–16 inches on straight runs; 6–8 inches approaching corners and vertical drops.
• Orientation: Nail to the side of the cable’s travel rather than directly above; it reduces the chance of pinching during hammering.
• Taps, not swings: Two or three controlled taps seat the nail without deforming the clip. Use a small hammer, not a framing mallet.
• Leave a hair of slack: The clip should hold the cable snugly while still allowing you to slide the cable a millimeter or so. That prevents strain and aids future adjustments.

For drywall and wood studs, the nails drove cleanly with no split studs or blown-out gypsum. On plaster over lath, I had better luck pre-pricking with an awl or tiny pilot hole to keep the nail from wandering. Brick and concrete required a 3/32–1/8 inch masonry pilot hole; once drilled, the nail set firmly without wobble.

Performance on different surfaces

• Wood trim and studs: Rock‑solid hold. No splits when avoiding edges. Great choice for baseboards and door frames.
• Drywall: Secure enough for lightweight cables. If you’re spanning long horizontal runs with heavier coax, I tightened spacing to 10–12 inches to avoid sagging.
• Plaster/lath: Usable with patience—pre‑prick or pilot makes a big difference.
• Brick/concrete: Absolutely requires a pilot hole; once seated, the hold is excellent and weather‑worthy.
• Stucco: Pilot holes are mandatory; I went one size up on the pilot to avoid cracking the finish coat.

In all cases, the plastic bodies resisted flattening and didn’t creep over time. I tug‑tested a 100‑foot Ethernet run after a week and saw no loosening.

Cable compatibility and sizing tips

Picking the right size is mostly about not over-clamping the jacket. My quick rule of thumb:
- Clip nominal size should be equal to or 1–2 mm larger than the cable’s outer diameter.
- If choosing between sizes, go up. A slightly looser fit with closer spacing beats an over-tight fit every time.

For CAT6 with thicker jackets, 8 mm was a snug, appropriate fit. For RG6 coax, 10 mm provided the right compression without flattening. Slim doorbell wire was happiest in 4 mm clips.

Outdoor use and durability

I used the 8 mm and 10 mm clips under eaves and along painted exterior trim to tidy a camera power lead and a small solar panel run. Through rain and direct sun, the clips held firm with no chalking or brittleness. The nails show no rusting so far. I’ll reserve judgment on multi‑season UV resistance, but early signs are positive. If you’re in harsh sun, a quick coat of exterior paint over the clip can add UV protection and hide the white.

Practical advantages over other options

• Versus adhesive mounts: Nails don’t care about dust or humidity and won’t give up on textured paint or outdoor conditions. They also keep cable profiles flatter and more consistent.
• Versus cable staples: The rounded cradle is kinder to cable jackets, especially coax and twisted pair. You also get four sizes instead of one staple width.
• Versus raceways: Clips are faster, cheaper, and less visually bulky, though raceways are better when you want to completely hide runs or protect from abrasion.

Quirks and limitations

• The largest size is 10 mm. Anything bigger—fat HDMI heads under strain relief, braided power cords, or multi-cable bundles—will need a different solution.
• On brittle plaster or old masonry, these only shine with a pilot hole; plan the extra step.
• They’re white only. If you need black or brown to match dark trim, you’ll be painting or looking elsewhere.

Small installation checklist

• Choose clip size one step larger than the cable OD
• Plan runs and corner relief before nailing the first clip
• Maintain consistent spacing (12–16 inches; closer near turns)
• Avoid hammering directly over cables—angle the nail slightly away
• Pilot holes for masonry; an awl mark for plaster
• Don’t use on mains wiring or heavy power cords

Value and who they’re for

Two hundred clips across four sizes is enough for multiple projects: a whole room’s Ethernet, a speaker install, and a couple of camera runs, with spares to boot. If you manage cables regularly—home office upgrades, AV tinkering, small networking jobs—the assortment means you almost always have the right size on hand, and consistency across sizes helps the finished look. For electricians or telecom pros, these won’t replace specialty anchors or UV‑rated, code‑specific fasteners in every scenario, but they’re a solid everyday consumable for light‑duty routing.

The bottom line

The Easytle cable clips do exactly what they should: hold low‑voltage cables neatly and securely across common surfaces, indoors and out, with minimal fuss. The nails are reliable, the plastic cradles protect insulation, and the four sizes cover the most common runs I encounter. They’re not a universal fastener for every cable or substrate, but used within their lane—Ethernet, coax, speaker wire, doorbell leads—they’re efficient, tidy, and cost‑effective.

Recommendation: I recommend these clips for anyone looking to organize low‑voltage wiring cleanly and affordably across wood, drywall, or masonry. They deliver dependable holds, sensible size coverage, and easy installation. Skip them if you need to secure heavy power cables or oversized bundles, or if you require color‑matched fasteners out of the box. For everyday cable management, they’re a dependable choice.