GLAINTE Brick Transformation Paint for Brick, Fireplaces, Walls, and Concrete, Interior/Exterior, 16 oz Kit, White, Included Tools

Why I reached for this kit

I used Glainte’s brick paint kit to rescue a tired red-brick fireplace last month, then pushed it further with tests on a small concrete stoop and a scrap piece of cedar. I wanted that controlled, layered whitewash look—lighter on the high spots, thicker in the recesses—without the mess or learning curve of traditional limewash. This kit promised water-based simplicity, adjustable opacity, and everything in the box to get started. It largely delivers.

What’s in the box

The 16 oz white kit includes:
- A jar of thick, water-based paint
- A serviceable brush
- Mixing sticks
- Thin masking film

There’s no primer, because you don’t need one here, and that’s a time saver. The brush is better than a throwaway and held up to scrubbing uneven masonry. The masking film protects in a pinch, but it’s on the thin, clingy side—think lightweight plastic rather than a proper drop cloth. I ended up pairing it with painter’s tape for edges and switched to a heavier drop cloth for floors.

Prep and setup

The paint will only look as good as your prep. I vacuumed masonry dust, degreased soot staining around the firebox with a mild cleaner, and let everything fully dry. For concrete, a broom and shop vac were enough; for wood, I gave the board a quick wipe to remove mill dust. If your surface was previously sealed or painted, test adhesion first—water-based products can struggle on glossy or sealed substrates.

One note for exterior work: choose a dry, sunny stretch. This paint is water-based; it’s water-resistant after curing, but it will re-soften if it gets wet before it’s fully dry.

Mixing and application

Out of the jar, this paint is thick—thicker than a standard interior latex. That’s a plus for control. You can push it into rough mortar joints or drag it lightly across stone faces for texture. Opacity is determined by how much you cut it with water and how you work the surface.

My practical ratios:
- 1:1 (water:paint) for a translucent wash that lets brick color peek through.
- 2:1 (paint:water) for a more opaque, modern look without turning it into a solid coat.
- Full strength for accenting edges, raised faces, or when you want that chalky, textured hit.

I worked in small sections, brushing on, then quickly using a damp cloth and a sea sponge to pull back highlights and balance the pattern. On the fireplace, I used 1:1 for the first pass, then came back with 2:1 in select areas and a few full-strength swipes on the edges of bricks to create depth. On the concrete stoop, a 2:1 mix gave me a clean, crisp white that still read as “masonry” rather than paint. On wood, full strength looked best for that cozy farmhouse vibe; the 1:1 wash appeared streaky on smoother boards.

Dry time is fast. Touch-dry in under an hour in my climate-controlled space, with workable recoat windows after 60–90 minutes. Low odor was noticeable—in a good way. I didn’t need a respirator, and cleanup was soap and water.

Coverage and finish

Coverage depends heavily on surface porosity and dilution. Here’s what I saw:
- Fireplace (8 feet wide, floor to ceiling, traditional red brick): at 1:1 with selective second passes, the 16 oz kit was enough, with a small amount left for touch-ups. If you’re aiming for nearly solid coverage, plan on two kits for a similar area.
- Concrete pad (about 6 square feet): 2:1 coverage was effortless; a single coat did the trick.
- Wood test pieces: full-strength consumes paint quickly. Expect the jar to go fast if you’re not diluting.

The finish is matte and reads as authentic—more like a chalky mineral wash than a plastic film. The texture is part of the appeal. You can leave mortar lines softened or crisp them by wiping back sooner. Because it’s water-based, you get a forgiving open time to tweak the look before it sets.

Durability and weathering

Indoors, no issues. Once cured, the paint didn’t rub off or chalk under normal handling. On the exterior test patch (south-facing concrete), I let it cure a full 48 hours before first rain. Water beaded and ran off; no lifting or whitening occurred. UV exposure over a couple of weeks didn’t shift the color noticeably, though true long-term fade testing takes months. For high-wear or frequently washed areas, I’d consider a breathable masonry sealer after the paint cures, but for vertical brick and decorative stone, it’s not essential.

A practical caution: if it gets wet before it’s fully cured, it can re-emulsify. Exterior timelines matter—check the forecast.

Where it shines

• Brick and stone fireplace updates: The control you have over opacity and texture makes it easy to get a custom, layered look without specialist skills.
• Small exterior masonry accents: Steps, low walls, and planters are easy wins—assuming you can protect them during cure.
• Faux stone and textured veneers: The thick body lets you skim high points or settle into recesses to create depth.
• Low-odor indoor work: It’s a friendly choice for enclosed spaces; VOCs felt minimal.

Where it falls short

• The included masking film is too flimsy for larger projects. Use your own drop cloths and quality tape for better protection.
• Coverage claims assume you’re diluting. If you want near-solid white on absorbent masonry, the 16 oz jar disappears quickly.
• It’s a one-color kit. If you want warmer whites or layered tones, you’ll need to tint thoughtfully or bring in a second product.
• Instructions around ratios could be clearer for first-time whitewashers. Expect a little experimentation.

Practical tips for best results

• Clean aggressively. Soot, efflorescence, and dust will undermine adhesion and evenness.
• Mist porous masonry lightly before your first pass; it can help prevent the paint from flashing as it soaks in.
• Mix small batches. It’s easier to keep ratios consistent and avoid waste.
• Keep a damp rag and sea sponge on hand. Brushing on, then dabbing off, produces a pleasing, non-uniform finish.
• Step back often. The effect is cumulative, and it’s easy to overdo opacity if you work too close.
• For faster coverage on big walls, switch to a 3–4 inch masonry brush; use the kit brush for edges and detail.
• Protect your schedule for exterior projects. Give yourself two dry days if you can.

Value and alternatives

At 16 oz, this sits in the “project kit” category rather than a bulk solution. It’s ideal for a fireplace, a feature wall, or a handful of exterior elements. If you’re painting a full façade, the economics favor buying larger-format masonry coatings. Compared to traditional limewash, this is less temperamental, less caustic, and easier to clean up—at the cost of some mineral authenticity and breathability. Compared to standard masonry paint, it offers much better control over translucency and texture, which is the point of whitewashing.

The bottom line

Glainte’s brick paint kit is a thoughtfully packaged, low-odor way to transform masonry and textured surfaces with a controllable whitewash. The paint’s body gives you excellent control over coverage and texture, and the water-based formula keeps setup, cleanup, and indoor use comfortable. It excels on fireplaces, brick walls, stone veneers, and small exterior elements where you want character rather than a flat, opaque coat.

Its shortcomings are manageable: the masking film is flimsy, the jar is small for heavy coverage on larger areas, and you’ll need to experiment with ratios to nail your look. But once you find your mix, the results are consistent and convincing.

Recommendation: I recommend this kit to DIYers and pros who want a forgiving, low-odor whitewash system for brick, stone, concrete, and even wood. It’s best for small to medium projects and layered, textured finishes. If you’re aiming for solid, high-opacity coverage across large exteriors, buy more volume—or choose a dedicated masonry paint instead. For transforming a fireplace or accent wall with a modern farmhouse or European-wash aesthetic, this kit hits the mark.