Hardware Resources duBois Hardware Resources WL60 Traditional Ball and Claw Unfinished Solid Wood Furniture Cabinet Leg - 6" H x 4-1/2"W x 4-1/2"D - Natural Rubberwood

What I liked about the WL60 leg right out of the box

I’m a sucker for classic furniture details, and the WL60 leg scratches that itch. It’s a solid rubberwood, ball-and-claw profile in a compact 6-inch height—perfect for elevating an ottoman, outfitting a sideboard, or giving a plain sofa front legs with some personality. Out of the box, mine arrived clean and true: no checks, no twist, and the carving was crisp enough that it didn’t look like a mass-market afterthought. The dimensions measured as advertised (roughly 6 inches tall, 4.5 by 4.5 inches at the top block), and the wood felt appropriately dry and stable.

Rubberwood isn’t exotic, but for carved components it’s a smart choice. It machines well, holds detail without splintering, and doesn’t weigh a ton. The manufacturer dries these pieces to a low moisture content, which mirrors what I observed—no movement after a few weeks of acclimation in a heated shop. For an unfinished leg meant to be tinted or painted to taste, that’s exactly what you want.

Style and proportions

Ball-and-claw is a statement look, and at 6 inches tall this is a compact take that won’t overpower smaller furniture. The top block is generously sized, which makes mounting less fussy, and the carved foot is well proportioned relative to the block. On a low sofa, swapping in the WL60 raised seat height to a more comfortable level and visually lifted the whole piece. On a small cabinet, the legs read as intentional rather than grafted on—a good test of proportion.

If you’re pairing these with traditional casework or reproductions, note that rubberwood has a fine, even grain that doesn’t naturally scream “mahogany.” That’s not a criticism, but you’ll want to plan your finishing schedule if you’re chasing a period-correct look.

Working the unfinished surface

These arrive truly unfinished, which is ideal if you like control over the final look but does mean some prep. I did a light sanding on the flats up to 220 grit with a soft pad, then switched to hand sanding with a foam-backed pad around the carved areas. Expect faint machining lines in tighter recesses; a bit of careful work with flexible abrasive sponges or needle files cleans those up quickly. Don’t skip this step—carvings show finish flaws.

Rubberwood can blotch with penetrating stains. I had good results with a pre-stain conditioner, followed by a gel stain to even out color. If your goal is a deeper, period feel, consider a dye first (water-based or alcohol) to set a base tone, then a gel stain to add warmth, and a pore filler if you want a glass-smooth finish. For a painted finish, a bonding primer and enamel topcoat lay down beautifully on this wood; it’s a great candidate for lacquer as well. The carved details pop with a glaze pass before topcoat if you like subtle shadowing.

Tip: Seal the entire leg, including the top block and any concealed surfaces. Even with well-dried stock, uniform sealing helps prevent seasonal moisture intake and keeps the finish consistent.

Installation and hardware considerations

The WL60 leg ships as a bare wood component—no hanger bolts or plates included. That’s not a downside in my view, because furniture mounting scenarios vary wildly, but you should plan ahead:

• Corner plate and hanger bolt: Install a hanger bolt in the leg and use a steel corner plate in the frame. This is quick and reversible for sofas and chairs.
• T-nut and threaded insert: Drill the leg and frame for a through-bolt with a T-nut on the inside of the frame. Very strong for case goods.
• Pocket-screw corner blocks: On cabinets with substantial rails, hardwood blocks glued and screwed in place provide a broad bearing surface. Then pilot and screw through from inside into the top block of the leg.

The 4.5-inch square top gives you ample gluing and screwing real estate. Pre-drill everything—rubberwood is forgiving but will split at the edge if you drive fasteners aggressively near carved transitions. Add felt or UHMW pads under the ball foot; the contact area is modest, and pads will protect floors and dampen noise.

One practical note: these are sold individually. For a full set, order four and unbox them together to match orientation and grain. The carvings on my set were consistent enough that I didn’t need to “pick a front,” but I still marked them so the claws faced outward uniformly.

Performance in use

On a small sofa, the WL60 legs raised the seat height from low-and-slouchy to comfortable and added enough clearance that a robot vacuum can finally navigate underneath. The legs feel solid under load; there’s no sponginess or creak when you settle into the seat. Rubberwood’s medium density helps here—it’s sturdy without being brittle, and the chunky top block distributes load into the frame nicely.

On a narrow cabinet, the compact height keeps the center of gravity reasonable. Because the foot is a rounded ball, use wide pads if your floors are soft or uneven; that increases the footprint and prevents the piece from telegraphing dents over time.

Where it shines

• Classic look in a practical size: Ball-and-claw detailing without going full-height pedestal. Works on modern pieces needing a traditional accent.
• Finish flexibility: Takes dye, stain, paint, or glaze well once you prep; easy to color-match to existing furniture with a little testing.
• Stable stock: The low-moisture, kiln-dried rubberwood held flat and didn’t telegraph movement during finishing or after installation.
• Install-friendly geometry: The large, square top makes for straightforward mounting with common hardware solutions.

Trade-offs and cautions

• No hardware included: You’ll need to supply hanger bolts, inserts, plates, or blocks. That’s normal in this category, but not plug-and-play.
• Additional prep time: Carved details always need a bit of hand sanding to look their best. Budget the time; it pays off.
• Color matching to dark classics: If you’re chasing a mahogany or walnut reproduction tone, expect to use dye and possibly grain filler to achieve depth. Rubberwood’s even grain takes color differently than open-pored hardwoods.
• Footprint vs. floor protection: The ball-shaped foot looks great but has a smaller contact patch. Generous felt pads are a must on delicate floors.

Durability and finish wear

With a proper topcoat (I used dewaxed shellac as a sealer and a waterborne polyurethane for the final coats), the legs have held up to months of daily use without scuffs cutting through. Rubberwood takes finishes uniformly, and the edges haven’t picked up the fuzzing you sometimes see in softer woods. If you go with oil-based finishes, allow full cure time before putting weight on the legs—uncured finishes will mar at the contact point with floors or pads.

Who will appreciate this most

• DIYers upgrading budget furniture: A quick way to add character and improve ergonomics without rebuilding a frame.
• Woodworkers customizing casework: The square top is easy to integrate, and the unfinished stock lets you match the rest of the piece.
• Anyone needing 6 inches of lift: From media cabinets to bathroom vanities, the WL60 leg hits a versatile sweet spot for clearance and cleaning.

If you need prefinished legs or a drop-in replacement with integral hardware and exact pre-drill patterns, this isn’t that. But if you enjoy finishing and want a carved look without commissioning custom work, it’s a strong option.

The bottom line

The WL60 leg blends classic styling with practical, shop-friendly execution. The carving is clean, the stock is stable, and the unfinished surface invites you to make it your own—stained, painted, or glazed. Installation is straightforward if you’re comfortable with basic woodworking hardware, and once installed, the legs feel solid and look intentional.

Recommendation: I recommend the WL60 leg for anyone comfortable with light finishing and simple mounting who wants a traditional ball-and-claw aesthetic in a compact, 6-inch form factor. It’s a quality blank canvas that rewards a little prep with a polished, custom look. If you’re after a prefinished, hardware-included solution or an exact match to dark, open-grain hardwoods without extra finishing steps, look elsewhere. For most DIY upgrades and custom builds, though, this is an easy win.