DeWalt 25/64" Pilot Point drill bit

Why this size matters

A 25/64-in hole doesn’t sound glamorous, but it’s a workhorse dimension in the shop. It’s a close-clearance size for 3/8-in hardware, a handy step before reaming, and a common ask when fabricating brackets, plates, and jigs. I’ve been using this 25/64-in pilot-point bit primarily for fabrication on mild steel and aluminum, plus the occasional hardwood fixture. It’s a single, purpose-picked bit rather than part of a set, and that’s often how I treat larger fractional sizes: buy the exact size I know I’ll use, and expect it to pull its weight.

Design and build

This bit is high-speed steel with a gold ferrous-oxide finish. In practice, that finish does what it should: sheds chips, adds a touch of lubricity, and resists surface corrosion after getting misted with cutting fluid. The key geometry here is the pilot-point tip. The small center “pilot” engages first, which helps the bit start exactly where I place it and reduces the chisel-edge skating you get from standard 118-degree jobber bits. It also tends to reduce the sudden grab (“lock-up”) as the bit breaks through thinner stock.

The shank is round but features DeWalt’s no-spin treatment to improve grip in the chuck. In both keyed and good-quality keyless chucks, I didn’t experience any slippage. The tapered web is beefier than generic hardware-store bits in this size, and it matters: larger diameters put more torque into the web, and this one resists twisting and breakage.

Dimensions are classic jobber length: 5-1/8 in overall with 3-3/4 in working length and 3.75-in flute length. It’s long enough to reach through stacked materials but not so long that it whips. Size markings sit above the shank, out of the chuck’s jaw bite, so they’re still readable after a few sessions—small detail, nice payoff.

Setup and compatibility

This is a round-shank bit. It’s not a hex quick-change, and you shouldn’t run it in an impact driver. In a handheld drill (corded or 18V+ brushless) and on a drill press, it’s right at home. The pilot-point geometry makes it tempting to skip center punching metal altogether; you can for light-gauge materials, but on thicker plate I still recommend a light punch to keep everything perfect and reduce the initial thrust load.

Because it’s HSS, it’s suited for wood, plastics, aluminum, and mild steels. For stainless, spring steels, or abrasive composites, I’d step up to a cobalt or carbide solution.

Performance in wood

In hardwood and softwood, the pilot point behaves similarly to a brad-point during the start. It locates well and produces a clean entry with minimal wander, even across grain. Chip evacuation is solid for a bit this size; the flutes clear stringy softwood chips without clogging. In plywood, I saw clean holes on the entry and minimal blowout on the exit, but for a pristine exit edge on veneered panels, a backing board still helps.

Speed-wise, a medium to high drill speed works fine. I prefer to let the pilot touch first, then apply steady pressure—aggressive feed rates don’t buy much and can polish the cutting lips on resinous woods.

Performance in metal

This is where the pilot point pays dividends. In thin sheet steel and aluminum, I can start holes without skating and with less pressing force. On the bench with 1/8-in mild steel plate, holes tracked true with a light punch mark, and the breakthrough felt notably smoother than with standard jobber points—less of that sudden bite that tries to yank the drill. In thicker stock (3/8-in mild steel), performance was consistent provided I respected speeds and lubrication.

Practical guidance:
- Mild steel: target around 600–800 RPM for this diameter, with cutting oil. Keep steady feed; don’t dwell at the bottom of the hole.
- Aluminum: 1,000–1,500 RPM, use a light oil or wax to prevent chip welding.
- Drilling stacked sheet: clamp securely; the pilot reduces stack-shift but won’t fix a loose setup.

One caveat: like most pilot-point geometries, this bit isn’t ideal for enlarging an existing hole. The pilot wants material to bite; without it, the cutting lips can chatter and walk on the rim. If you need to open holes, step through intermediate sizes or use a reamer/unibit.

Performance in plastics

Acrylic and polycarbonate are always a test of heat control. At moderate speed and a light feed, chips came off clean without melting. The pilot makes starting holes easy on glossy surfaces where a standard bit would skate. For brittle acrylic, I slow down further and back the bit out frequently to clear chips; the bit’s finish helps keep chips from welding to the flutes.

Accuracy and hole quality

The pilot point makes it easier to hit layout marks precisely, especially on handheld work. On the drill press, where runout is minimal, hole roundness and diameter were on target. In thin metals, the entry edge is crisp and the exit burr is modest; a quick touch with a deburring tool finishes it. In wood, the entry hole is clean, and the exit splintering is lower than typical jobber bits—again, a backing board yields perfect edges.

Because the tip geometry centers so well, the bit is less sensitive to initial side-loads. I still avoid leaning on the drill sideways to prevent oval holes and premature edge wear.

Durability and maintenance

The tapered web has held up under repeated use in mild steel and aluminum. I haven’t managed to twist or chip the cutting edges, which says a lot for a single HSS bit that’s doing metal duty at this diameter. The oxide finish holds up; after a few oil-soaked sessions, the gold tint dulls as expected but the flutes stay smooth.

Like most pilot-point bits, this isn’t the easiest candidate for a casual bench-grinder resharpening; you can touch up the lips, but you’ll likely lose the pilot geometry if you’re not careful. For me, the bit still cuts briskly after multiple projects thanks to using proper speeds, lubrication, and avoiding heat soak. If you expect frequent stainless work, you’ll burn any HSS bit quickly—use cobalt instead.

Ergonomics and usability

The no-spin shank works. In a keyed chuck I didn’t have to crank down excessively, and in a quality keyless chuck the bit stayed put under full-torque drilling. On bargain keyless chucks with glazed jaws, any round shank can slip; this one is more forgiving than plain round stock but not magic. The above-chuck size marking is one of those small things you appreciate when you’re sifting through a drawer—the 25/64 marking remains readable.

Limitations

• Not for enlarging existing holes—use the proper tool chain for that.
• HSS limits the bit’s ceiling in tough alloys; stainless and hardened steels will shorten its life.
• Round shank means no quick-change compatibility and not suited to impact drivers.
• Being jobber length, it’s more flexible than a stub; for tight-tolerance holes in metal, a stub-length pilot-point would deflect less.

None of these are dealbreakers; they’re normal tradeoffs for this style of bit.

Value and use cases

If you frequently drill close-clearance holes for 3/8-in bolts, this size earns its drawer space. I’ve used it for brackets, hitch plates, jig fixtures, and laminated hardwood templates. The bit starts cleanly, runs true, and breaks through with less drama than standard points. It’s a solid generalist for wood, plastics, and mild steel—exactly what I want from a single, picked size in the shop.

Recommendation

I recommend this 25/64-in pilot-point bit for anyone who needs a reliable close-clearance drill in general fabrication, woodworking jigs, or light metalwork. It starts precisely, cuts faster with less pressure than standard jobber bits, and the tapered web and oxide finish give it real durability. It’s not the right tool for enlarging holes or for heavy stainless, but within its intended range, it’s efficient, predictable, and easy to live with. If your work regularly calls for 3/8-in hardware, this bit is a worthwhile addition that will likely become your go-to for that role.