DeWalt #6 Replacement Drill Bit & Countersink

Why I reached for this countersink bit

The difference between a tidy, flush screw and a ragged crater shows up on everything from face frames to shop jigs. I’ve used plenty of countersink solutions over the years—single-flute cutters, tapered systems with stop collars, even a few that try to do too much at once. Lately I’ve been running the DeWalt #6 countersink bit as a replacement head on a flip-drive, and also in a standard quick-change chuck, to see how it stacks up for day-to-day woodwork.

Design and build

This is a simple, focused tool: a straight pilot drill paired with a multi-cutter countersink, all on a 1/4-inch hex shank. The bit uses a split-point grind, which matters more than it sounds; it helps the tip grab cleanly on contact and reduces the tendency to skate on hardwood or on a glossy finish. The cutter itself is a four-flute design. In practice, that multi-cutter geometry produces a smoother cone with fewer chatter marks than the single-flute countersinks you see bundled into bargain kits.

The black oxide finish is typical for everyday use in wood. It resists surface rust reasonably well, though it’s not intended for heat resistance like TiN or the wear life you’d get from cobalt steel. That’s fine here—the job is wood and wood-based sheet goods.

A couple of notes on what it is not: this is a single-size (#6) replacement, not an adjustable system or a set. There’s no stop collar for automatic depth control. It’s designed to do one thing—pilot and countersink for #6 flat-head wood screws—and do it cleanly.

Setup and compatibility

I used this bit in two setups:
- In a flip-drive, where you drill the pilot/countersink and flip to a driver in one quick motion.
- In a regular drill/driver with a hex chuck.

The hex shank seats securely and doesn’t spin in the chuck under load. While the hex shank will slip right into an impact driver, I recommend a clutch-controlled drill/driver for countersinking—the more consistent torque helps keep the countersink smooth and prevents the cutter from chattering at the moment the screw breaks the surface.

There’s no depth stop, so I set depth by eye and feel. On finish pieces, I mark a depth reference with a bit of tape and sneak up on the final countersink with light trigger bursts. For shop projects and casework where a flush head is acceptable, I run to just below the surface and let the screw do the last half-millimeter of seating.

Performance in the shop

I tested across common materials: construction pine, birch plywood, red oak, and hard maple.

• Start and tracking: The split-point starts on target without a punch. On oak edges, where slick grain can cause a polished tip to skid, this bit bites predictably. That alone reduces frustration when working on visible edges or narrow rails.
• Hole quality: The pilot portion cuts clean, ejection is efficient, and I don’t see heat discoloration unless I push speed and pressure too far on dense hardwood. For #6 screws, the pilot diameter is appropriate for typical flat-head wood screws; it provides holding power in softwoods without splitting, and drives cleanly in hardwoods with minimal torque spikes.
• Countersink finish: The four-flute cutter leaves a crisp cone with fine radial lines rather than coarse spirals. In soft pine, the lip cuts rather than tears, so the rim stays clean. In birch ply, the top veneer remains intact when I use moderate RPM and light feed; that’s where many single-flute cutters will pick up and peel the veneer. In MDF, the cone is sharp and uniform, with the expected dust—no glazing unless I hold it in one spot too long.
• Repeatability: Without a stop collar, it’s on the operator to be consistent. On a batch job, I found a rhythm: drill to full pilot depth, feather the trigger for the countersink, and check flush fit with a screw every five holes. If you need auto-repeatable depth, this is not the right style of tool; but with a little practice, the results are consistent.

I ran most operations around 1,200–1,800 RPM in softwoods and plywood, and closer to 800–1,200 RPM in oak and maple. Slower speed plus light pressure produces the cleanest countersink face on dense material.

Durability and maintenance

After a few weeks of intermittent use, cutting performance remains solid. Black oxide steel isn’t forever—abrasive composites like phenolic or cement board will dull it prematurely, and it’s not made for metal—but in wood and typical sheet goods, edge life is good. The four-flute cutter’s edges are small; they benefit from occasional cleaning. Resin and pitch build-up will quickly mimic dullness, so a soak in a citrus-based cleaner followed by a nylon brush keeps the cutter crisp.

If you do nick an edge on a stray screw or staple, you can lightly touch the flutes with a fine needle file, but restraint is key; uneven filing introduces chatter. Realistically, this bit is priced and positioned as a consumable for woodwork, not a lifetime cutter to be resharpened repeatedly.

What I liked

• Clean, chatter-resistant countersinks: The multi-cutter head leaves a refined finish, even in plywood veneers.
• Reliable starts: The split-point pilot reduces walking on hardwood edges and coated surfaces.
• Fast workflow with flip-drive: In a flip system, piloting and driving screws becomes one smooth sequence.
• True hex shank: Quick, secure changes with no chuck slip.

What could be better

• Single size: It’s limited to #6 screws. If you work mostly with #8 or #10 fasteners, this won’t be your go-to.
• No depth stop: Great for feel-driven work; not ideal for production tasks requiring perfectly uniform countersink depth without attention.
• Basic finish: Black oxide is fine for wood, but it won’t outlast premium coatings in abrasive materials. That’s expected at this tier, but worth noting.

Where it fits in

This #6 countersink bit is a practical choice for cabinetry hardware, shop fixtures, and light casework where #6 flat-head screws are common—hinges, brackets, cleats, and jigs. If you already use a flip-drive, this is a drop-in replacement that keeps that workflow humming. If you prefer an all-in-one, adjustable-depth solution with a stop collar and interchangeable pilots, look at tapered countersink systems from specialty brands; they bring more complexity and cost, along with precise depth control. Conversely, if you just need clean, repeatable countersinks and pilots for #6 screws at a modest price, this bit hits the mark.

Tips for best results

• Use a backer on through-holes to avoid exit tear-out, especially in plywood.
• Run moderate RPM and light pressure for the countersink phase; let the cutter shear, don’t force it.
• Clear chips frequently in deep pilots; a quick in-out motion avoids heat and burning.
• Test depth on scrap and set a tape flag on the bit or make a simple gauge block for repeat work.
• Stick to wood and wood-based sheet goods; avoid composites loaded with abrasives.

Value

As a single replacement unit with a straightforward feature set, the value is solid. You’re paying for a clean cut and compatibility with quick-change systems, not for adjustability or premium coatings. The 30-day money-back window is a small reassurance, though I didn’t need it; the bit performed as expected from the first session.

Recommendation

I recommend this #6 countersink bit to woodworkers and installers who want a clean, reliable pilot-and-countersink solution for flat-head #6 screws, especially if you’re already using a flip-drive. It starts accurately, cuts a smooth countersink with minimal tear-out, and integrates seamlessly with a quick-change workflow. If your work revolves around multiple screw sizes, or you need locked-in depth control for production runs, consider a multi-size system with a stop collar instead. But for everyday #6 tasks, this bit earns a spot in the quick-change tray and quietly does its job well.