Skil 6-1/2 in. 24-tooth carbide circular saw framing blade (3-pack)

Why I reached for this blade

A compact 6-1/2-in circular saw is my go-to for framing punch lists, deck repairs, and overhead work. That smaller footprint and lighter weight come with a tradeoff: blades have to be efficient to keep the saw from bogging down, especially on cordless platforms. That’s what drew me to the Skil 6-1/2-in 24T framing blade in a 3-pack. I wanted a no-fuss, job-ready blade I wouldn’t be precious about—something I could install, cut aggressively with, and replace without a second thought when it was time.

Over the course of a couple of weekends, I ran these blades through SPF studs, pressure-treated 2x, OSB sheathing, and some old painted fence boards that hid a few surprises. I used them primarily on a cordless compact circular saw, but also dropped one into a corded trim saw for comparison.

Setup and fit

The blade’s 5/8-in arbor bore and 6-1/2-in diameter match most compact saws without fuss. Out of the package, the clear anti-stick coating is smooth but not oily, so there’s no residue transfer. The plate is thin—Skil lists a 0.04-in kerf—and you immediately feel that in reduced rotating mass. On cordless, that translates to snappier spin-up and easier starts on the cut line.

I checked runout before cutting by spinning the blade against a marker; no visible wobble showed up. The expansion slots are laser-cut and clean, and there’s a modest anti-kickback shoulder profile behind the ATB teeth.

Design choices that matter on site

• Thin kerf (0.04 in): Less material removal means less load on the motor and better battery life. You can feel the lighter feed resistance immediately, especially ripping 2x stock.
• 24-tooth ATB carbide: It’s the right count and grind for framing—fast feed, acceptable crosscut quality in construction lumber, and good bite in OSB.
• Anti-stick coating: Helps when you’re ripping pitchy pine or damp PT. It doesn’t stop resin buildup entirely, but it delays it and reduces heat.
• Expansion slots: These tame vibration as the blade heats, and in my cuts they helped the blade stay quiet and track true under moderate feed pressure.
• Anti-kickback shoulders: They don’t make the blade “grabby,” which is what I want in a framing blade when pushing hard through knots.

Nothing exotic here—just sound, job-site-oriented choices. That’s a good sign for a budget-friendly 3-pack.

Cutting performance

In dry SPF studs, crosscuts were quick and straight with minimal tear-out on the exit side. It’s not a finish blade; expect a rough edge appropriate for framing. Rips along the grain were where the thin kerf shined. I could lean into the saw more than I typically do with a thicker, general-purpose blade without bogging. On my cordless saw, that “lighter push” feel added up to longer run time over the day—anecdotal, but noticeable.

In OSB, the 24T tooth count is a sweet spot. Sheathing cuts were fast and predictable with tolerable fuzzing on the face. If you care about a cleaner edge for a visible cut, score with a utility knife or use painter’s tape—common framing-blade tactics.

Pressure-treated lumber is a better stress test. The blade kept its edge through several dozen crosscuts and a handful of rips on wet 2x10s. The anti-stick coating seemed to delay pitch accumulation, but by the end of the day I did see resin on the plate and teeth. A quick cleaning with blade cleaner brought performance back.

Curious about durability under abuse, I made a couple of passes through a fence board that hid two small finish nails. The blade survived with a lightly chipped tooth but kept cutting acceptably. Carbide framing blades aren’t nail-cutting demolition blades, but if you’re in remodeling and hit the occasional fastener, this blade won’t immediately fold.

One caveat: on soft, resinous pine with a slow feed and an imprecise fence setup, I induced some burn. That wasn’t unique to this blade—most low-tooth-count blades will scorch if you stall them—but the thin plate makes consistent feed and alignment more important. Keep the shoe pressed firmly to your guide, and don’t feather the cut.

Tracking, vibration, and noise

For a thin-kerf budget blade, it runs impressively true. The expansion slots do their job; I didn’t get the high-pitched scream some thin plates develop when hot. Lateral deflection was minimal under a normal framing push. If you force a rip through a knotty 2x at a bad angle, you can coax a slight wander, but it corrected as soon as I squared up the shoe. The anti-kickback shoulders contribute to that stable feel without noticeably slowing feed rate.

Edge quality

• Studs and joists: Rough but square cuts; splintering is modest on the exit side.
• Plywood/OSB: Clean enough for subfloor and sheathing. For visible edges or laminates, use a higher-tooth-count blade.
• PT lumber: Acceptable with some surface fuzz when ripping. A light pass with a plane or sander cleans it up.

If you need cabinet-grade crosscuts, this isn’t your blade. For framing, it hits the expected mark.

Durability and blade life

Framing blades live a hard life. After a weekend of framing tasks—mix of studs, PT, and OSB—the first blade still cut adequately but had lost the fresh, self-feeding feel. I swapped to the second blade for a deck day and got similar performance longevity. That lines up with my expectations: these are consumables. The induction-hardened carbide teeth are small, and while you could technically resharpen them, it’s not worth it at this price point. The 3-pack format fits that reality well: keep a fresh one in your bag and swap without guilt.

Do note that heat and pitch will blunt any blade prematurely. If you’re ripping sticky pine all day or pushing through binds, you’ll shorten its life. Quick maintenance—cleaning off resin, avoiding constant contact with sawhorses and concrete, and letting the saw reach full speed before entering the cut—pays off.

Safety and handling

The blade feels predictable in a cut. I didn’t experience any kicky behavior when easing into a rip or exiting a notch. The shoulders help prevent overfeeding, and the thin kerf reduces the tendency to bind as long as your kerf doesn’t close. Standard framing safety applies: support both sides, mind offcuts, and don’t twist the saw mid-cut—the thin plate won’t forgive sloppy technique.

Value and who it’s for

The 3-pack format makes sense for:

• DIYers tackling a renovation or deck build who want fresh, sharp blades across the project.
• Pros who keep a compact 6-1/2-in saw for overhead cuts and punch lists and need a reliable consumable that won’t drain the blade budget.
• Anyone prioritizing speed and battery efficiency over premium edge longevity or finish quality.

It’s not for finish carpenters looking for glass-smooth cuts or for folks cutting hardwood trim. It’s also not a demolition blade; if you’re regularly sawing through fasteners and unknowns, get a purpose-built demolition blade.

Tips to get the best from it

• Let the saw do the work. With a thin kerf, excessive lateral pressure can induce wander.
• Keep it clean. A quick wipe with blade cleaner when you see resin restores cut quality and reduces heat.
• Use the right blade for the job. For visible cuts in plywood or composite decking, step up to a 40T–60T blade.
• Check your base alignment and guide. The thin plate tracks best when the saw shoe is firmly against a straightedge.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skil 6-1/2-in 24T framing blade for rough framing and general construction tasks, especially on cordless saws where the thin 0.04-in kerf translates to faster cutting and better runtime. It runs true, resists vibration, and the anti-stick coating helps in real-world, resin-heavy lumber. Blade life is solid for a budget-friendly option, and the 3-pack format acknowledges what these blades are: consumable workhorses you’ll swap as the job demands. If your work calls for ultra-clean finishes or you routinely encounter fasteners, choose a more specialized blade. For most framing, sheathing, and deck work, this one earns a spot in the kit.