YAFIYGI 2 Pack LED Flashlight Replacement Bulb with 18V 12V 19.2V 6-24 Volt and 3W 247LM and PR2 P13.5S LED Conversion Kit Compatible Ryobi Milwaukee Craftsman Lamp Torch Lantern Work Light

Why this old-school socket LED matters

I have a soft spot for older flashlights and jobsite lamps that still earn their keep. Swapping a fragile filament bulb for a modern LED can be the difference between a glovebox relic and a tool you actually reach for. The YAFIYGI P13.5S LED replacement bulb hits that sweet spot: it’s a quick, inexpensive way to modernize a wide range of PR-base lights—everything from 6V lanterns to 12V/18V tool lights—without changing the host.

This is a DC 6–24V, 3W, polarity-sensitive LED with a P13.5S/PR2 base, rated around 247 lumens. In plain terms: it fits where an old PR bulb goes, it sips power compared to incandescent, and it throws a cool white beam.

What stood out

• Compatibility is broad. The 6–24V input covers 4D-cell lanterns (6V), older 12V flashlights, and 18V/19.2V tool lights from brands like Ryobi, Milwaukee, and Craftsman that used PR-based incandescent bulbs. If your light takes a PR2/P13.5S bulb, you’re likely in business.
• It’s polarity-sensitive. Positive at the tip, negative on the shell. Most PR flashlights are wired that way, but not all. This one detail determines whether it lights at all—worth checking before you hit “install.”
• Beam profile is LED-typical in an incandescent-era reflector: a pronounced central hotspot with a usable, but dimmer, corona. Expect a tighter, more directional beam than the soft orb you got from a filament bulb.

Installation and compatibility notes

Drop-in swaps are straightforward: unscrew the bezel, remove the old PR lamp, and seat this LED. Because it’s polarity-sensitive, be sure your host is center-positive. If the light doesn’t turn on, do not force anything; check the light’s wiring or test with a multimeter. Some vintage or off-brand hosts have the polarity reversed. There’s no risk-free “flip” with a PR bulb—orientation in the socket is fixed—so polarity has to be right.

Fitment in most PR sockets is clean, but reflector focus was designed around a filament coil, not a flat LED die. On lights with adjustable heads, a slight twist or re-focus can tighten the hotspot and tame rings. In fixed-head lights, alignment is a function of reflector geometry; more on what to expect below.

Brightness and beam pattern

Rated at about 247 lumens (roughly 82 lm/W at 3W), this LED is significantly more efficient than the incandescent bulbs it replaces, and in many hosts it appears brighter simply because the light is cooler and more concentrated. The beam tends to:

• Emphasize a bright center spot with a narrower throw.
• Produce a visible “halo” or rings in some reflectors.
• Occasionally show a faint dark center (“donut”) on shallow reflectors where the LED’s emitter sits slightly off the reflector’s focal point.

None of this is unusual. Incandescent-era parabolic reflectors were optimized for a tiny filament at a precise focal length. A flat LED package changes that geometry. If your light has a focusing collar, spend a moment tweaking; small adjustments can make a big difference. If not, expect a beam that’s great for pointing at what you’re working on and less ideal for wide, uniform flood.

Color and visual quality

Output is a cool white—think “pure white” rather than the warm, amberish look of a filament bulb. That cooler tone makes details pop on hardware and work surfaces and reduces the tendency to overheat the lens or bezel. Color rendering (CRI) isn’t specified; plan on a utilitarian LED look rather than color-accurate illumination. For general tasks, inspections, and utility use, it’s perfectly serviceable. For color-critical work (wiring identification under varied jackets, paint matching), this is not the bulb I’d choose.

Runtime and efficiency

One of the biggest wins is runtime. A 3W draw across common platforms looks like this:

• 6V lantern (4x D alkaline, ~12–18 Wh usable): multiple hours to a long evening, depending on cell quality and temperature.
• 12V tool battery (12V 2.0Ah ≈ 24 Wh): roughly 7–8 hours of continuous light.
• 18V tool battery (18V 2.0Ah ≈ 36 Wh): roughly 11–12 hours of continuous light.

Real-world results vary with battery age and light electronics, but the order-of-magnitude improvement over a hot incandescent is consistent. You’ll also notice far less heat buildup at the bezel.

Durability and thermal behavior

With no fragile filament or glass envelope, this LED shrugs off vibration and drops that would end an incandescent’s life. The 50,000-hour claim is typical for mid-power LEDs when they’re kept cool. PR-based hosts aren’t designed as heat sinks, but at 3W most housings manage the load without drama. Don’t expect the emitter to be indestructible—poor contact, reversed polarity, or chronic overheating can still take out an LED—but for everyday shop and site use, the upgrade is a net gain in reliability.

Where it shines

• Reviving tool-kit flashlights and lanterns. Older Ryobi, Milwaukee, and Craftsman PR-bulb lights benefit the most: stronger, whiter light with dramatically better runtime.
• Vehicle and equipment maintenance. Directional spot makes it easy to punch light exactly where you need it.
• Emergency kits. Low power draw and long shelf life make LED conversions a smart move for lights that may sit for months then run for hours.

Where it falls short

• Beam uniformity in certain hosts. Shallow or small reflectors can produce a tight hotspot with rings or a faint central shadow. If you want a wall-to-wall flood, this conversion won’t give it to you.
• Polarity sensitivity. If your host is wired shell-positive, this bulb simply won’t light. There’s no workaround without modifying the light.
• Color rendering. The cool tint looks bright and crisp but isn’t the most natural for color-critical work.

Tips for best results

• Confirm polarity before buying. You want center-positive (tip +, shell -). A quick continuity check from the switch to the shell tells the story.
• Clean the contacts. Oxidized or springy PR sockets can cause flicker. A quick scrub with a pencil eraser or contact cleaner helps.
• Adjust focus if possible. Even a quarter-turn on a focusing head can sharpen the hotspot and reduce artifacts.
• Keep a spare. Many PR-based flashlights include a hidden spare-bulb compartment; a two-pack means you’re covered.

Value and package

It’s sold as a two-pack, which is exactly what you want for aging lights: one for the host, one as insurance. The lumen-per-watt figure (about 82 lm/W) and the 3W draw are sensible choices for PR conversions—bright enough to feel modern, low enough to run cool and long.

The bottom line

This YAFIYGI P13.5S LED is a practical, low-friction upgrade for PR-base flashlights and work lights across 6–24V. Expect a cool white, tighter beam with a strong hotspot, vastly better efficiency than incandescent, and durability that suits jobsite abuse. Accept that beam uniformity depends on your reflector, and double-check polarity before you commit.

Recommendation: I recommend it for anyone looking to revive older PR-based lights—especially 12V and 18V tool flashlights and 6V lanterns—who values runtime, durability, and a crisp, directional beam. If your priority is a perfectly smooth flood or you suspect your host is shell-positive, look elsewhere or consider a purpose-built LED head. For most legacy tool lights, though, this is the right upgrade at the right power level.