Bosch 10" Premium Segmented Rim Diamond Blade for Universal Rough Cuts

What this blade is built to do

Bosch’s 10-inch segmented diamond blade is a straightforward, jobsite-friendly cutter for rough work in concrete, block, and brick. It’s not trying to be a finish blade. The segment layout and generous gullets are designed to move dust out of the cut, keep the bond cooler, and let you push through dense masonry at a good pace. The 5/8-inch arbor fits most 10-inch brick/paver saws and many miter and chop saws, and the blade’s listed 3-3/4-inch cutting depth is right where you’d expect for this diameter.

I put it to work on a mix of interlocking concrete pavers, clay brick, and a handful of standard concrete blocks. I ran it both dry and wet on a brick/paver saw, and did some dry testing in a guarded, high-RPM saw with dust control to see how it behaved outside the ideal setup.

Setup and compatibility

The blade seated cleanly on a 5/8-inch arbor with no slop, and it clamped evenly without needing shims. On a brick/paver saw, the diameter gives enough depth to cut common 60–80 mm pavers in a single pass. For full-height 4-inch blocks, I made a pass, flipped the workpiece, and finished it—expected behavior for this size blade. The 0.098-inch segment thickness is a pragmatic middle ground: thick enough to track well and shed heat, thin enough that you’re not wasting material in an overly wide kerf.

If you plan to run wet, use a machine designed for wet sawing on a GFCI-protected circuit and keep a Type 1A (ISO 41) guard in place. Running dry, the same guarding applies and dust control becomes the priority. Either way, check that your saw’s maximum RPM is compatible with a 10-inch blade and don’t force the feed—let the diamonds cut.

Cutting performance

This blade favors speed and consistency over pristine edges, which is exactly the right call for hardscape and masonry layout work. On interlocking concrete pavers, I made a long list of crosscuts and notches. With shallow scoring passes followed by a steady feed, the blade maintained a predictable line without walking. The segmented rim does what it’s supposed to: it vents heat and clears fines, so the blade doesn’t bog or glaze quickly.

Dry cutting on pavers produced the usual sparks and dust plume, but the feed rate remained confident. With water, the cut smoothed out and the blade ran cooler, which let me lean a bit harder without the motor complaining. On clay brick, the cut speed ticked up thanks to the slightly softer body. On dense concrete block, I noticed a minor slowdown midway through extended cuts, then recovery as the gullets cleared—nothing out of the ordinary.

If you try to use this blade for tight-radius work or delicate scribe cuts, you’ll fight it a bit. It’s happiest on straight lines and simple miters. For long rips on slabs, the segments help keep the kerf open, but at this diameter you’re still working within that 3-3/4-inch depth, so plan your layout accordingly.

Edge quality

Segmented blades like this leave an edge that’s serviceable, not pretty. On concrete pavers, the exit edge will chip if you rush; flipping the piece to finish from both sides reduces blowout. Running wet also cleans up the edge slightly by cooling the bond and suppressing microfractures at the surface. On clay brick, the chips were small enough to disappear under a light chamfer with a rubbing stone.

If your job demands crisp, near-finished edges on visible faces—say, for architectural block or fine veneer—this isn’t the blade to reach for. A turbo rim will get you closer without sacrificing too much speed, and a continuous rim will be the cleanest on brittle materials like porcelain and tile. For pavers, retaining walls, and general layout cuts, the edge quality here is right in line with expectations.

Heat, dust, and blade life

Dry cutting generates significant silica dust—use a shroud and vac if you can, plus a respirator. The gullets keep the blade cooler than a continuous rim in dry mode, but you still need to pace your cuts. I got into a rhythm: score, cut halfway, pause briefly at the edge of the work to let the blade spin free, then finish. That little cooldown helps maintain speed over a long session.

Running with water increased the blade’s apparent cutting speed and kept the segment corners sharp longer. Over the course of a long day with a mix of wet and dry cutting, I put well over a hundred cuts on the blade across pavers and brick. Toward the end, I could feel a slight slowdown on the densest pavers—typical of diamonds glazing rather than an outright “worn out” condition. A couple of quick dressing passes on a soft abrasive block brought the bite back.

In terms of durability versus cost, it’s a good proposition. At 69 CAD, it lands in the value tier for a 10-inch diamond blade, and the performance per dollar is easy to justify for a project or two of hardscape work. Pros burning through blades weekly might still opt for a premium bond tailored to their material, but for mixed masonry, this one holds its own.

Practical tips from use

• Score first: A shallow score (3–5 mm) helps the blade track and reduces chipping at the exit.
• Flip for full thickness: For 4-inch material, cut from both sides to avoid overfeeding and to keep edges cleaner.
• Don’t force it: Let the diamonds work; excessive pressure overheats the bond and slows you down.
• Dress as needed: If the blade starts to polish and slow, a couple of passes on a soft abrasive material can expose fresh diamond.
• Manage dust: Dry cutting demands a vac or, at minimum, a respirator and outdoor airflow. Wet cutting drastically reduces airborne dust and extends blade life.
• Keep the guard: This blade requires a Type 1A (ISO 41) guard. Don’t remove or modify it to gain depth—plan your cuts instead.
• Electrical safety: If you’re using water with an electric saw, use a machine designed for wet sawing and plug into a GFCI-protected circuit.

Limitations

The main limitations aren’t surprises. As a rough-cut segmented blade, it won’t deliver finish-ready edges. The 10-inch diameter limits single-pass depth to 3-3/4 inches, so thick stock or deep notches require flips or multiple passes. It’s also not the best choice for brittle tile or stone that chips easily; a continuous rim is safer for those. Finally, availability can be an issue—at the time of writing it was backordered—so plan ahead and don’t count on grabbing it last minute.

Value and who it’s for

For landscapers, masons, and serious DIYers setting pavers, trimming block, or rough-cutting brick, this blade checks the right boxes: it’s quick, predictable, and reasonably priced. It’s also a sensible backup blade to keep in the kit—at a single-pack price that won’t sting, and with performance that doesn’t feel compromised. If your work regularly shifts between materials, the balanced bond and segmented design keep it from being too specialized.

If your jobs skew toward fine masonry finishes or tile-heavy work, pair this with a turbo or continuous rim blade and you’ll have the bases covered.

Recommendation

I recommend the Bosch 10-inch segmented diamond blade for rough cutting concrete pavers, brick, and block. It earns that recommendation on speed, predictable tracking, and value. The segment and gullet design clears debris effectively, letting you maintain a steady feed without constant cooldowns, and it holds up over a sizable volume of cuts with basic care. It’s not a finish blade and doesn’t pretend to be, but if your priority is getting clean-enough edges at a good pace, this blade does the job well. The price point sweetens the deal; just be mindful of availability and plan your purchase before your next hardscape weekend.