Rindion 7 Pack 8"×10" Clear Transparent Plexiglass Sheets, 1/25” (1mm) Thick Plexiglass Sheets, Extrusion Process Acrylic Sheet for Photo Frame Glass Replacement, Art Protectors, DIY Craft Projects

Why I reached for these sheets

I keep a rotating stash of clear plastics in the shop—for replacing cracked picture frame glass, making quick display covers, and protecting artwork during transport. The Rindion 8×10 acrylic sheets caught my eye because they’re thin (about 1 mm), consistently sized, and sold in a practical seven-pack. After a few weeks of use across framing, photography, and light fabrication tasks, I’ve formed a solid opinion on where these sheets shine and where they don’t.

What you actually get

• Seven clear acrylic panels, nominally 8×10 inches and ~1 mm thick
• Protective film on both sides
• Extruded acrylic, not cast (more on the implications below)

Out of the box, my set arrived clean and well protected. The film did its job—no scuffs or hairline scratches—and peeled off cleanly without residue. Static cling is real with thin acrylic; a quick wipe with a damp microfiber cloth tames it.

Build quality and clarity

For thin, extruded acrylic, the clarity is excellent. When used in frames, artwork reads crisp and true without the waviness you sometimes get in budget plastics. Color fidelity is good, and the surface finishes to a pleasant, almost invisible presence once installed. At 1 mm, these are flexible and lightweight—ideal for frame glazing and protective covers—but they’re not structural. If you’re looking to make shelves or load-bearing fixtures, you’ll want something thicker.

Extruded acrylic tends to be slightly softer than cast and can pick up micro-scratches if you clean it aggressively. With a gentle soap solution and a microfiber cloth (never ammonia-based glass cleaner), I had no issues. Durability-wise, for their intended uses—glazing, covers, signage—the sheets hold up well.

Cutting and fabrication

Rindion calls out that these sheets can be cut with common shop tools, and that matches my experience—with a few caveats that apply to all thin acrylic:

• Saws: A fine-tooth blade on a miter saw or table saw works cleanly if you support the sheet and keep the feed gentle. I had the most predictable results on the table saw using a zero-clearance insert and painter’s tape over the cut line to minimize chipping. A jigsaw with a plastic blade also works, but clamp the sheet to prevent chatter.
• Scoring and snapping: Because these are just 1 mm thick, scoring with a sharp utility knife and snapping over a straight edge is surprisingly effective for straight cuts. It’s quiet, clean, and leaves a tidy edge.
• Routers/CNC: Light passes with an O-flute bit work, but heat management is key. Use conservative spindle speeds and keep chips clearing. For something this thin, backer boards help a lot.
• Lasers: Clear extruded acrylic behaves differently depending on your setup. A small diode laser won’t reliably cut clear acrylic—wavelengths typically pass through—though you can sometimes engrave if you paint or mask the surface. A CO₂ laser will cut and engrave cleanly. In my shop, a low-power CO₂ laser produced smooth edges with modest settings; engraving was clear (extruded usually engraves less “frosty” than cast). If your workflow depends on diode-laser cutting, consider opaque acrylic or cast sheets designed for that.

Heat-related melting wasn’t an issue for me using the methods above, and I never experienced crack propagation, which can plague thin plastics. The protective film is your friend—leave it on while cutting.

Tolerances and fit

In frames, fit matters. My pieces were close to nominal size, but like most sheet goods, you should expect small tolerances. If you’re building custom frames, I recommend waiting to cut your rabbets until you have the sheets in hand or sizing the frame slightly generous and relying on spacers. The thickness was consistent within typical extruded tolerances, which helps when swapping into existing frames with spring clips.

Practical uses I tested

• Picture frame glass replacement: This is where these sheets excel. They reduce weight, eliminate the hazard of broken glass, and look optically clean enough for most home and gallery settings. I prefer real glass for museum-grade installations, but for general display they’re excellent.
• Art protectors and display covers: I cut a couple sheets to act as slip-in covers for portfolios and a product display. The thinness keeps glare manageable and adds almost no weight.
• Photography/videography props: The sheets make handy reflectors and splash guards on cramped sets. They also wipe clean easily between scenes.
• Signage and inserts: In small menu boards and directional signs, they protect printouts without adding bulk. The 1 mm thickness slides into most off-the-shelf frames and holders.

Outdoors, acrylic is naturally water resistant and UV stable compared to many plastics. I’d still avoid leaving thin sheets in prolonged direct sun under stress, as thin extruded acrylic can warp slightly with heat. Mounted flat and supported, they behave well.

Limitations to keep in mind

• Not for impact-heavy uses: Thin acrylic will crack if flexed sharply or impacted. For safety shields or high-traffic, choose thicker acrylic or polycarbonate.
• Laser compatibility: Clear extruded acrylic won’t cut on most diode lasers. If your workflow depends on that, you’ll need a CO₂ laser or different material prep (masking/painting) and expectations.
• Scratch sensitivity: Acrylic is more scratch-prone than glass. Use microfiber cloths, mild soap, and avoid abrasive cleaners. If scratches occur, you can polish them out with plastic polish, but prevention is easier.
• Flex: At 1 mm, these are intentionally flexible. That’s great for glazing and slip-in covers, not great for freestanding panels.

Tips for best results

• Keep the film on until the last possible moment to protect the surface.
• Use painter’s tape along cut lines to minimize edge chipping and scuffing.
• For saws: fine-tooth blades, firm support, and a zero-clearance insert help.
• For scoring: multiple light passes beat one heavy pass. Snap over a clean, sharp edge.
• For bonding: acrylic cements can cause crazing on extruded acrylic if there’s residual stress. Test on a scrap and avoid solvent over-application.
• Cleaning: Mild soap + water + microfiber. Skip ammonia-based cleaners; they can fog or craze acrylic.

Value and who it’s for

The seven-pack format makes sense. It’s enough material to cover a small series of frames, prototype a display, and keep a couple sheets in reserve. For studios, classrooms, and hobby shops, having a consistent batch on hand saves time.

If you’re a frame maker or a DIYer repairing frames, these are ideal—clear, safer than glass, easy to trim, and light. If you’re a maker focused on CO₂ laser work, they’re usable; if you rely on a diode laser, look elsewhere or plan for engraving only with masking. If you need higher abrasion resistance or museum-level optical performance, consider thicker cast acrylic or coated glazing.

Bottom line

The Rindion 8×10 acrylic sheets hit a sweet spot for everyday glazing and protective tasks: clear, light, easy to work, and reliably packaged. They’re not a universal plastic solution, but within their lane—frame replacements, art protectors, signage, and light DIY—they perform as advertised without surprises. I appreciate the consistent sizing, clean protective film, and the way they cut with simple tools, including the humble utility knife.

Recommendation: I recommend these sheets for anyone replacing picture frame glass, building lightweight covers, or tackling small signage and craft projects. They’re a practical, budget-friendly choice with good clarity and workable fabrication behavior. I would not recommend them if your workflow depends on diode-laser cutting of clear acrylic or if you need impact-resistant panels; in those cases, choose a different material or thicker stock. For the rest of us, this seven-pack is exactly the kind of shop staple that quietly gets a lot done.