DeWalt Pilot Point Tip Cut-Out Bit

Why this cut-out bit earned a spot in my drywall kit

I reach for a rotary cut-out tool a lot—outlet boxes, recessed lights, and last‑minute changes are part of nearly every job. After several weeks of cutting around boxes and cans on both 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch drywall, this DeWalt cut-out bit proved it’s more than an afterthought accessory. It strikes a useful balance: fast enough to keep pace on production work, but controlled enough that I’m not patching blown corners around every electrical box.

Design and build

This is a 1/8-inch high-speed steel bit with a pilot point tip. The tip matters. Instead of skating or digging erratically when you hit the face of a box or fixture, the pilot helps the bit track where you want it to go. The shank is straight and sized properly for 1/8-inch collets; I had snug, repeatable clamping with no visible wobble in my drywall router and a Dremel-style rotary tool.

The geometry reads as a pilot/brad style rather than a true spiral. In practice, that translates to better control when tracing obstructions and slightly slower clearing of chips compared to aggressive spiral drywall bits. It’s a worthwhile trade-off on finish work or when you don’t want to risk overshooting a corner.

This particular pack comes with ten bits. For a 1/8-inch profile that sees plenty of side load, spares are not optional—they’re smart planning.

Setup and compatibility

• Fits 1/8-inch collets (common on drywall routers, RotoZip-type tools, and many rotary tools).
• The straight shank seats fully; clean your collet and tighten firmly to avoid slippage.
• I set the cutting depth just a hair deeper than the panel thickness to reduce flex and to keep the pilot in play against boxes.

If your tool offers variable speed, I had the best mix of control and cut quality at the higher end of the range on drywall, a notch lower on plastics to avoid melting, and slower still on thin aluminum siding.

Performance in drywall and gypsum board

This bit is clearly tuned for gypsum. On 1/2-inch drywall over studs, it plunges without chatter and follows the edge of plastic and metal boxes cleanly. The pilot point makes the “find, trace, and freehand” routine less eventful:

1. Plunge near the box.
2. Nudge until the tip meets the box face.
3. Tilt slightly so the cutting edges ride the perimeter while the pilot keeps you on track.

Corner accuracy is where I noticed the biggest gain over aggressive spiral bits. With those, I often have to feather the last 1/8 inch to avoid shooting past the corner. Here, the pilot helps me feel the edge and pause before I overcut. Cut edges are crisp with minimal paper fuzzing. On 5/8-inch Type X, the bit still maintained a steady feed rate; I simply slowed my pace a touch to keep heat down.

Dust is dust—no miracle here. It throws fine gypsum like any cut-out bit, so eye protection and a respirator are non-negotiable. If your router has a vac port, use it.

Tracing cans, vents, and odd shapes

Around ceiling cans, the control advantage shows up again. I can ride the can lip without digging into the housing. On return-air cutouts where the template was already marked, the bit tracked a pencil line well enough to avoid a later rasp cleanup. It’s not a substitute for a spiral when you have to hog out long straight runs quickly, but for shape fidelity around fixtures, I prefer this tip.

Beyond drywall: wood, plastic, fiberglass, and siding

• Wood: On 1/4-inch plywood and thin paneling, the bit cuts cleanly with modest feed pressure. For thicker hardwoods it’s not my first choice; the side loads increase and heat builds. Keep it to thin, non-structural panels if you’re using it in wood.
• Plastics: In PVC wall panel and acrylic, I dropped the speed slightly and took gentle passes to avoid melting. The pilot helps keep arcs smooth when following a template.
• Fiberglass: It works, but fiberglass is abrasive. Expect the edge to dull faster than in gypsum. Wear a proper respirator and long sleeves.
• Siding: In vinyl siding, it zips along with neat edges. On thin aluminum siding, use a lighter touch and slower speed; the bit will do it, but prolonged aluminum work is better left to carbide.

If you routinely cut abrasive materials (cement board, heavy fiberglass, or lots of aluminum), a carbide cut-out bit will outlast HSS. For typical drywall-centric tasks with occasional detours into light plastics or paneling, this HSS bit is a cost-effective fit.

Control, speed, and cut quality

• Control: Excellent around obstructions thanks to the pilot. I made fewer accidental bites into boxes and housings.
• Speed: Slightly slower than aggressive spiral drywall bits when removing lots of material, but on par when tracing perimeters.
• Cut quality: Clean edges in drywall and vinyl; acceptable in thin wood and plastics with proper speed control.

Durability and bit life

High-speed steel is a sensible choice here. In standard drywall work, I made dozens of box cutouts with a single bit before noticing any dulling; it still cut, just with a tad more pressure. Abuse it—hard side loading, hitting screws, or running hot in aluminum—and it will dull or snap, as any 1/8-inch bit would. That’s where the ten-pack shines: you’re not stalled if one gives up mid-run.

A few practices extended life noticeably:
- Let the bit do the work; don’t lever it sideways.
- Avoid contact with screws and steel studs when you can.
- Clear chips with a brief lift if you feel heat building, especially in plastics.

Ergonomics and user experience

There’s minimal chatter when the collet is tight and the depth is set correctly. The pilot tip provides tactile feedback—you can feel when you’re on the edge of a box versus freehanding in open drywall. That feedback reduces mental load; I’m focused on the outline, not fighting the tool.

What could be better

• No depth stop or collar included. You’ll rely on your tool’s depth setting (fine for most, but a clip-on stop would be convenient).
• HSS limits longevity in abrasive materials. A carbide option with the same pilot geometry would be a nice companion for mixed-material remodels.
• Not the fastest choice for long, open cuts. If you’re roughing out big openings, a spiral upcut bit may save time.

Tips to get the most out of it

• Mark and probe: Score your layout lightly and plunge just outside the line. Let the pilot find the box, then trace.
• Set depth just past the material thickness to reduce flex and prevent digging into what’s behind the panel.
• Match speed to material: fast for gypsum, moderate for plastics, slower for thin aluminum.
• Safety first: kill power to circuits before cutting around boxes, wear eye and respiratory protection, and collect dust where possible.

The bottom line

This DeWalt cut-out bit prioritizes control without sacrificing practicality. The pilot point tip pays real dividends around outlet boxes, light cans, and vents—exactly the scenarios where a drywall router can get away from you. In gypsum it’s smooth, predictable, and leaves clean edges. It handles occasional cuts in thin wood, plastics, fiberglass, and siding if you adjust speed and feed, though heavy use in abrasive materials will shorten its life.

Recommendation: I recommend it for anyone who does regular drywall cutouts and values accuracy around obstructions. The 1/8-inch HSS build, straight shank, and pilot geometry add up to a dependable, easy-to-use bit, and the ten-pack format keeps you moving if one snaps. If your work leans heavily on cement board, thick fiberglass, or lots of metal, pair it with a carbide option; otherwise, this bit is a smart, cost-effective staple for drywall and light trim-out tasks.