DeWalt 5/64" Split Point drill bit

Small bits do a lot of heavy lifting in the shop. The 5/64-inch size is a go-to for pilot holes, tiny hardware, and layout work where accuracy matters more than brute force. After a few weeks using this 5/64-inch bit across wood, mild steel, aluminum, and plastics, I came away impressed with how consistently it starts, how little it wanders, and how it holds up—provided you respect its small diameter and use it correctly.

First impressions and build

Out of the pack, the grind is clean and even, with a sharp point that engages material immediately. The bit is jobber length, which is what you want in a size this small—short enough to stay rigid, long enough to reach into most hardware and layout situations. The shank includes DeWalt’s no-spin feature; on my keyless chucks (12V and 20V), I had zero slippage under normal drilling pressure. Small bits commonly polish smooth and slip under load, so the extra bite at the shank is a welcome touch.

One detail I appreciated more than I expected: the size marking sits above the chucking area, so it doesn’t wear off the first time the jaws grab it. When you keep a dozen nearly identical micro-bits in a caddy, being able to identify a 5/64 at a glance saves time and reduces the temptation to “guess and check.”

Setup and technique

Even with a sharp point that starts on contact, technique still matters at 5/64. Here’s what worked best for me:

• Use high speed, light feed: small bits prefer faster RPM and a gentle touch. On cordless drills, I ran in high gear and let the edge do the work.
• Keep it straight: these diameters snap if you introduce side load, especially breaking through metal.
• Peck to clear chips: short in-and-out pulses keep the flutes from clogging and reduce heat.
• Lubricate in metal: a drop of oil on steel or aluminum keeps the edge crisp longer.
• Back up thin stock: a sacrificial board behind sheet metal or plywood prevents blowout and reduces the “grab” at breakthrough.

With those basics, the bit rewards you with clean starts and round, true holes.

Performance in wood

In softwoods and hardwoods, the bit starts immediately—no skating across the surface—and produces a clean entry with minimal fuzzing. For hardwoods like maple and oak, I got the best results by letting the bit establish the hole for the first 1/16 inch before increasing pressure. The point geometry helps the bit track straight, which matters for pilot holes where a few degrees of drift can cause screws to split thin stock.

Breakout on the exit side is well controlled for the size. Backing up with a scrap block nearly eliminates it. If you’re drilling lots of pilot holes for brass screws, this bit cuts a clean path that reduces screw friction and the risk of snapping small fasteners.

Performance in metal

In mild steel, the bit starts without a center punch in most cases, though I still recommend a light punch for critical locations—especially on curved or painted surfaces. I ran high RPM with a drop of cutting oil and pecked to keep chips moving. Holes were round and consistent, with modest burrs that cleaned up quickly with a countersink or a pass of a deburring tool. In 1/8-inch aluminum, the bit cut quickly and left a surprisingly clean surface finish; chip evacuation was excellent when pecked.

For stainless steel, this bit can do the job with patience and lubrication, but it isn’t the ideal tool. If you often drill stainless, a cobalt bit at this diameter will last longer. For general shop steel and aluminum, this 5/64-inch bit is perfectly at home.

Performance in plastic

ABS and acrylic can be fussy at small diameters, but the geometry here helps. In ABS, the bit fed smoothly with no melting. In acrylic, I backed off the speed slightly and used very light pressure to avoid digging in; holes came out clean with minimal breakout. Again, peck drilling makes the difference by keeping heat down.

Accuracy and finish

The cutting edges are true, and runout (tested in a drill press and a quality cordless tool) was minimal for this class of bit. That shows up as round holes that match the nominal size more closely than cheaper imports. For jig hardware and rivet work where hole size matters, I’d trust this bit.

The pilot-style point gives you precise starts and fewer grimace-inducing wander marks on finished surfaces. You still get the normal “grab” as the flutes break through thin metal, but it’s manageable and predictable.

Durability

Small bits live a hard life. Between their slender cores and the tendency to be pushed too hard, they’re easy to snap. This one’s tapered web adds some strength without making the bit feel chubby, and it survived my typical shop workload: a mix of metal layout holes, cabinet pilot holes, and template work in plastic.

I deliberately abused one by leaning into it on steel; it didn’t shatter immediately—which I’ve seen with bargain bits—but I could tell the edge was losing a step. Respecting the feed pressure and using lubrication in metal kept the edge sharp for much longer. In wood and plastic, wear was minimal over dozens of holes.

You can resharpen a 5/64-inch bit, but it’s not easy without a jig; the economics usually favor replacement. The fact that this size is often sold in multi-packs makes sense.

Usability touches

• No-spin shank: I didn’t experience chuck slip, even in a smooth-jawed, older keyless chuck.
• Legible size marking above the chucking area: still readable after repeated use.
• Jobber length: a good compromise between reach and rigidity; I didn’t miss the extra length you get with aircraft bits, and I appreciated the better control.

Limitations

• It’s not a stainless specialist. Occasional holes are fine; frequent stainless work calls for cobalt.
• Like all micro-bits, it punishes sloppy technique. Side load, dull chucks, and forcing the feed will snap it.
• If you need a very deep reach or awkward angles, a longer “aircraft” variant would be better.

None of these are deal-breakers; they’re intrinsic to the bit’s size and the materials we ask it to cut.

Tips to get the most from it

• Mark accurately and, for critical metal locations, use a light center punch.
• Run fast; feed light. Let chip color be your guide—straw-colored chips in steel, not blue.
• Use oil in metal, none in wood, and go easy in heat-sensitive plastics.
• Back up exits to avoid blowout and reduce hang-up at breakthrough.
• Store small bits in labeled tubes; the durable size marking helps, but organization saves time.

Value and warranty

You’re paying for consistent geometry, a shank that actually holds, and edges that resist dulling when used properly. It’s not a disposable bargain-bin bit, but you can feel and see where the extra dollars go. The 30-day money-back guarantee is standard fare and provides some peace of mind if you get a bad grind out of the pack (I didn’t).

Who it’s for

• Woodworkers drilling pilot holes for small screws and hardware
• Metalworkers and DIYers making layout holes, pop-rivet prep, and light fabrication
• Makers working with plastics who need clean, accurate small holes without melting

If you need a rugged, all-day stainless solution, consider stepping up to cobalt in this size. For everyone else, this 5/64-inch bit hits the sweet spot.

Recommendation

I recommend this bit. It starts on contact, tracks true, and resists the two most common small-bit failures: chuck slip and premature snapping. With sensible technique—high speed, light feed, pecking, and a drop of oil in metal—it delivers clean, accurate holes in wood, mild steel, aluminum, and plastics. The jobber length keeps it manageable, the size marking stays readable, and the no-spin shank is more than marketing—it works. For general shop use at 5/64 inch, it’s a reliable, low-drama performer.