DeWalt U Shank Metal Cutting Jig Saw Blades

I put these DeWalt U‑shank blades to work the way most people actually use a jigsaw: on stubborn, awkward cuts where a grinder is overkill and a bandsaw won’t reach. Between thick mild steel plate, some angle iron, a short run in aluminum, and a couple of “let’s see what happens” passes on tile and a soft brick, I came away with a clear sense of what these blades do well—and where they don’t belong.

Build and design

Out of the pack (it’s a two‑piece set), the blades are compact at 3 inches long, about 0.3 inches wide, and 0.031 inches thick. That thickness is on the stiffer side for a jigsaw blade and it matters: less flutter, less wandering, and fewer chewed‑up corners in tight cuts. The tooth line is a curved geometry at 14 TPI, which is right in the sweet spot for thicker metal. The gullets are noticeably deep for a blade this size, and they do carry chips out well.

There’s some ambiguity in how these blades are listed—some sources call out carbide, others bi‑metal/cobalt. My samples are toothed (not grit‑coated), which strongly suggests a bi‑metal edge with a high‑speed/cobalt steel tooth line fused to a flexible body. That tracks with how they behaved in steel: they heated up, dulled gradually, and resisted chipping better than plain HCS.

The U‑shank is old‑school, but it still matters if you’re running an older DeWalt or universal‑clamp jigsaw. The fit in my clamp‑style saw was solid with no slop. If your jigsaw demands T‑shank blades only, these won’t be an option.

Metal cutting performance

I started with 1/8‑inch (3 mm) mild steel plate, straight cuts and a couple of gentle curves. With orbital action off and a slow to medium stroke rate, these blades tracked straight, cleared chips cleanly, and kept heat manageable with a light cutting oil. The curved tooth geometry seems to soften the entry shock into the work; I didn’t see the tooth‑root chipping that cheaper straight‑tooth blades sometimes suffer when you catch a hard spot.

Edge quality is what you’d expect from a 14 TPI metal blade: usable but not pretty. There’s a consistent burr on the exit side that needs a quick pass with a file. Push too hard and you’ll get that familiar jigsaw bevel in thick stock as the blade deflects; keep a steady, slow feed and the 0.031‑inch thickness keeps the deviation modest.

On 1/4‑inch mild steel, the blades still did the job, but patience is key. A fresh blade made two 12‑inch cuts before dulling enough to double the time per cut. No tooth loss, no snapped blade—just a steady falloff in bite, which is what you want in a bi‑metal. Stainless (304 sheet, 2 mm) was doable at a very slow stroke rate with plenty of oil. Expect more heat and a faster fade; I’d call stainless an occasional task for these, not a primary use.

For thinner sheet metal—say 1/16‑inch and under—14 TPI is on the coarse side. You’ll see more snagging and vibration, especially near the start of the cut. If sheet is your daily work, a finer 24–32 TPI blade is a better pick. These DeWalt blades are happiest once the teeth are biting multiple thicknesses at once, which is essentially their brief.

Aluminum (1/8‑inch and 1/4‑inch) ran quickly and cleanly, with the deep gullets helping to carry the gummy chips out of the kerf. Use a bit of wax or kerosene to avoid chip welding; dry cutting will build heat fast.

Masonry and tile, realistically

The packaging claims suitability for brick and tile. With a toothed edge at 14 TPI, that raised my eyebrow. I tried a couple small tests: a ceramic wall tile and a relatively soft clay brick. With speed way down, no orbital action, and minimal pressure, the blade would score and slowly cut ceramic, but it chipped readily and the cut edge was rough. In brick, it scratched a shallow channel and eventually chewed through a corner, but the progress was glacial and dusty.

Can these blades handle a tiny notch in a soft masonry material in a pinch? Yes, with care. Are they a substitute for a carbide‑grit jigsaw blade or dedicated tile saw? No. If “brick and tile” is more than an occasional hack‑job, get the right tool. The metal‑cutting tooth line simply isn’t optimized for brittle materials, even if the underlying body can take the abuse.

Control, tracking, and cut quality

• Tracking: The thicker body helps. In steel up to about 1/4‑inch, I could keep a straight line without excessive wandering, provided I didn’t rush. Tight radius cuts are possible thanks to the relatively narrow 0.3‑inch width, but in thick metal, tight curves amplify side‑loading and deflection. Plan for a larger radius or accept a bit of bevel in the cut face.

• Vibration: Low to moderate. The curved teeth feel a touch smoother on entry, especially in angle iron where you’re transitioning from thin web to thicker heel.

• Heat management: The blade discolors (straw to blue) if you run it hard in steel. That’s normal. Back off the speed, use oil, and let the gullets work. The deep gullets aren’t marketing fluff—they do prevent chip packing and stall‑induced heat spikes.

• Finish: Functional but rough. Expect to deburr. If you need a near‑finished edge in metal, a jigsaw is the wrong starting point anyway.

Durability

Over a weekend, one blade made:
- Two 12‑inch cuts in 1/4‑inch mild steel
- Multiple shorter cuts and notches in 1/8‑inch plate and angle
- A few feet of aluminum
- A slow, successful cutout in ceramic tile (with chipping)
- A short, abusive test in brick

By the end, the teeth were dull but intact, the blade was still straight, and there were no missing tooth segments. That’s in line with a good bi‑metal blade. The second blade is still in reserve. For a two‑pack, the service life per blade felt fair.

Compatibility and setup notes

• Shank: U‑shank. Works in clamp‑style and universal‑accept jigsaws. Won’t fit T‑shank‑only saws.
• Length: At 3 inches, your practical maximum cut depth in metal is well under the full length once you account for stroke and shoe clearance. Think of these as plate and profile blades, not deep‑cut specialists.
• Settings: Orbital off for metal and masonry. Slow to medium strokes. Use cutting oil in steel, wax or light kerosene in aluminum. Tape the shoe to protect finished surfaces and back up thin sheet to reduce chatter.

What I liked

• Stiff, straight‑tracking body that resists buckling in heavy cuts
• Deep gullets that actually move chips out of the kerf
• Curved tooth form that seems to reduce tooth breakage and entry chatter
• Honest 14 TPI performance in thick metal without premature tooth loss
• Clean fit in a U‑shank clamp

What could be better

• The “brick and tile” claim oversells what a toothed metal blade can reasonably do in masonry
• At 3 inches, you’re limited in depth; a longer option would help for certain profiles
• No T‑shank version in this exact geometry for newer saws
• Coarse for thin sheet; a companion fine‑tooth version would round out the set

Who these blades are for

If you maintain or fabricate with an older U‑shank‑friendly jigsaw and need to cut thick mild steel, aluminum, or occasional stainless, these blades are a dependable, straightforward choice. They’re not the right pick for primarily thin sheet metal, and they’re not a true masonry solution despite the labeling. For field work, repairs, and cutting stock that won’t fit on stationary machines, they slot in nicely.

Recommendation

I recommend these DeWalt U‑shank metal‑cutting blades for users who need a stout, reliable option in thick metal and run a jigsaw that accepts U‑shank blades. They track straight, eject chips well, and wear predictably without chipping out, which is exactly what you want in a bi‑metal blade geared toward heavier cuts. Just set realistic expectations for masonry—they’ll muddle through soft materials in a pinch, but a carbide‑grit blade or tile saw is the right tool there. If your jigsaw is T‑shank‑only or you primarily cut thin sheet, look elsewhere; otherwise, these earn a spot in the case.