Bosch Daredevil Recessed Lighting Hole Saw (4-3/8 in)

Why I reached for this hole saw

Cutting clean recessed-lighting holes in old ceilings is a chore I’ve learned to respect. Between brittle plaster, gritty stucco, and the mess they create, the wrong tool can turn a simple layout into an afternoon of patching and cleanup. That’s what led me to the Bosch 4-3/8-in recessed hole saw. It’s purpose-built for this size of can light, it uses a coarse carbide cutting edge, and it ships with a dust cup and pilot bit. I put it to work across drywall, plaster/rock lath, and stucco, and came away with a clear sense of where it shines—and where it compromises.

What it is

This is a 4-3/8-inch carbide-tipped hole saw with a closed-back cup and deep gullets to help clear debris. The cutting depth is 1-1/4 inches, which covers most single-layer ceilings including plaster with rock lath and exterior stucco over sheathing. It arrives with a 1/4-inch hex pilot bit/arbor and plays nicely with Bosch’s SpinLOCK arbor system if you have one. At 0.86 lb it’s reasonably light for overhead use.

The tooth pattern is effectively one tooth per inch, which tells you a lot about the intended use: fast excavation in abrasive materials rather than fine, splinter-free cuts in wood. If your goal is speed and survivability in plaster or stucco, coarse carbide is the right choice.

Setup and compatibility

Out of the box, I chucked the included 1/4-inch hex pilot in a standard 18V drill/driver. If you own the SpinLOCK system, the cup swaps on and off quickly; otherwise, the included pilot bit/arbor works fine. For stucco or masonry surfaces, I prefer swapping the pilot to a masonry bit to prevent the tip from skating. The closed-back design means the plug stays captive in the cup, which is a blessing for dust control and a small nuisance for plug removal.

A quick note on sizing: 4-inch LED downlights are notorious for inconsistent cutout specs. Many modern “4-inch” housings or retrofits call for a 4-1/4 to 4-3/8 inch hole. This saw cuts a true 4-3/8. For the housing styles I used (Halo and a slim retrofit), the fit was correct and left just enough wiggle room to ease the can in without chewing up the drywall.

Cutting performance

• Drywall and plaster over rock lath: This is where the tool feels most at home. The coarse carbide edge bites instantly, doesn’t skate once the pilot is set, and clears dust quickly thanks to the deep gullets. Running the drill in low gear with steady pressure, I was through 3/4-inch plaster plus rock lath in under 20 seconds per hole with minimal chatter. The cut quality isn’t cabinetmaker-clean, but it’s perfectly acceptable for a concealed flange.

• Stucco: On exterior soffits and stucco over sheathing, it still performs, but technique matters. Score the surface lightly first, keep the drill slow, and let the carbide do the work. Stucco is extremely abrasive, so expect more wear per hole than in drywall. I also recommend a masonry pilot bit, especially if there’s pebbled finish.

• Wood or multi-layer ceilings: It will cut through plywood and drywall sandwiches, but this isn’t a fine-tooth wood hole saw. If you need splinter-free wood cuts, use a bi-metal or carbide-tooth wood saw instead.

If you encounter metal lath, stop. A carbide-grit edge like this will spark and dull quickly on expanded metal. In those cases, I pre-cut the perimeter with an oscillating tool or switch to a diamond-grit solution designed for metal lath.

Dust collection and cleanup

The integrated plastic dust cup on the back does capture a meaningful amount of dust, especially overhead. It’s not a sealed system—fine dust still escapes—but it keeps the lion’s share out of your eyes and off the floor. That said, the cup is rigid plastic, not a flexible elastomer. After several holes, mine showed stress marks and a small crack near the rim. I reinforced it with tape for the rest of the job. If you’re doing a full house of lights, plan on some maintenance or pair it with a helper on a vacuum.

Because of the closed back, each plug stays trapped in the cup. To remove it, I found it easiest to loosen or pull the pilot bit and pop the plug with a flat screwdriver. It adds a few seconds per hole. Not a deal-breaker, but something to factor into your time estimate.

Durability and longevity

Carbide grit and coarse teeth are the right call for plaster and stucco, but these materials are unforgiving. After a run of holes in plaster/rock lath and a handful in stucco, the cutting edge still had life, though not like-new. For occasional remodel work or a single project with a dozen or so cuts, the value is excellent. If you’re cutting dozens upon dozens of holes—especially in very hard, aggregate-heavy stucco—a diamond-grit core saw will last longer and cut cleaner.

The dust cup is the weakest link. The saw body itself is stout; the cup is the consumable. Treat it as such and keep a backup dust-control plan (shop-made shield, vac shroud, or plastic sheeting).

Accuracy and hole quality

The saw tracks straight, doesn’t wander once the pilot is engaged, and cuts to size. The kerf leaves a slightly rough edge consistent with coarse carbide. For recessed fixtures with a trim ring, that’s fine. If you need a tighter fit, you can use a compass to scribe and score the perimeter, then cut just shy of full depth on the first pass before finishing the hole.

Keep in mind that a 4-3/8-inch hole gives a bit of breathing room for many “4-inch” fixtures. If your fixture’s spec is tighter (say 4-1/4), this saw will be a touch generous, which can help with alignment but may require careful centering.

Tips for best results

• Use low speed and steady pressure; let the carbide do the work.
• Score the surface lightly to keep brittle finishes from chipping.
• Swap to a masonry pilot on stucco; it resists skating.
• Expect captive plugs; plan a quick release method.
• If you suspect metal lath, verify before cutting and consider a different tool.
• Wear eye protection and a respirator; plaster and stucco dust contain silica. Note that the tool carries a Prop 65 warning.

Where it falls short

• Dust cup durability: It captures dust but isn’t built for heavy abuse. Over time, it deforms and can crack.
• Plug extraction: The closed-back design improves cleanliness at the cost of speed between holes.
• Not a one-tool-for-everything: It’s optimized for plaster/drywall/stucco, not metal lath or finish-grade wood.

Value and use cases

For homeowners and remodelers installing modern 4-inch cans or wafer lights, this is a practical, budget-friendly solution that plays to the realities of ceiling work: overhead cutting, brittle materials, and dust control. Pros who do occasional retrofits will appreciate the speed and true-to-size cut. For production work in very hard stucco or in buildings with metal lath, I’d step up to a more specialized cutter or plan on replacing the dust cup as a consumable.

Recommendation

I recommend the Bosch 4-3/8-in recessed hole saw for anyone tackling a small to medium run of recessed lighting in drywall, plaster, or stucco. It cuts fast, holds size well, and meaningfully reduces mess. The downsides—the fragile dust cup and the extra step to release plugs—are manageable and, in my view, outweighed by the clean, predictable performance overhead. If your project involves metal lath or dozens of holes in very abrasive stucco, consider a diamond-grit alternative; otherwise, this tool is a smart, efficient choice for 4-inch lighting cutouts.