Pukamam 33 Pcs Diamond Sanding Discs Set, 2" Quick Change Easy Strip Wheels for Drill Die Grinder Accessories, Paint Remover Tool for Rust, Oxidation, Paint Removal with 1/4" Roll Lock Holder, Mix Color

Why I reached for this set

Rust, paint, and weld scale are the kinds of messes that either fall away cleanly or fight you for hours. Over the past few weeks I’ve been using the Pukamam 2-inch stripping discs to see where they land on that spectrum. The short version: they’re quick-change, compact, and more controlled than a flap disc when you want to remove coatings without chewing into the base material. They’re not a replacement for heavy grinding or concrete prep, but for metal cleanup and surface conditioning they punch above their price.

What’s in the set

You get three flavors of 2-inch discs—purple (hard/aggressive), blue (neutral/cleaning), and black (flexible/finishing)—along with a roll‑lock style backing pad and 1/4-inch shanks that fit drills and die grinders. The discs use an open fiber mesh bonded with a resin elastomer and diamond abrasive. That structure matters: the open web helps shed swarf and manage heat, while the resin gives the disc some give, so it follows contours and doesn’t gouge as easily as a solid abrasive.

Pukamam rates the discs up to 45,000 rpm. That’s a high ceiling for a 2-inch accessory, and I never needed to run them that fast. On a pneumatic die grinder at 20,000–25,000 rpm and a cordless drill on its high setting, I didn’t see any abnormal fraying or button failures.

Setup and compatibility

The roll‑lock interface is the standard Type R-style plastic button. The included backing pad is decent and the discs also threaded onto a third‑party Roloc‑type pad I already own without drama. The set ships with both round and hex shank options, so you can drop it in a keyed/keyless drill chuck or a collet.

Swapping discs is genuinely fast, but I did notice that heat and grit can make a used disc stubborn to remove, especially after longer runs. A quick twist with a gloved hand freed them; if you meet resistance, let the pad cool for a minute and avoid over-torquing when you install the next disc.

Performance on real work

• Steel trailer frame (rust and scale): I started with the blue discs to clear oxidized patches and old primer. They cut cleanly without biting into the steel. On heavier scale around spring perches, the purple discs sped things up noticeably. I followed again with blue to even the finish. The result was a uniform, ready-to-prime surface with minimal smearing.

• Painted gate (multiple coats, brush marks): The black discs were the right opening move here. They lifted the sun‑baked topcoat without digging ruts into the steel bars. For stubborn corners and drips, I bumped up to blue and then back down to black for a consistent sheen. Compared to a flap disc, control was better and I preserved sharp edges.

• Aluminum sheet (deburring and cleanup for decorative work): Aluminum loads abrasives fast. The black discs at modest rpm (drill on low) removed light oxidation and softened edges without clogging immediately. If I leaned too hard or sat in one spot, I could hear the cut dulling; a quick pass against a piece of scrap steel helped clear the disc. I wouldn’t use the purple discs on aluminum unless I needed to strip a tough coating; they’re aggressive.

• Stainless weld discoloration: Purple knocked down heat tint and small bits of spatter briskly, then blue refined the surface to a more uniform satin. I like that I could chase the tint without flattening the weld crown.

I didn’t test on pool plaster or concrete—and I wouldn’t. These are coating removal and conditioning discs, not masonry grinders. On thick, soft layers like elastomeric paints or tar, any web disc can load up and wear quickly; here, frequent disc cleaning or stepping up to a different tool makes more sense.

Cut quality and control

What stood out is the margin of error the mesh provides. You can lean into rust and old paint without carving flats or undercutting edges, especially with the black and blue discs. On curved parts and tubing, the flexible web tracks the surface nicely. The purple series has some bite—use it with a lighter touch and keep the tool moving. If you’re used to aggressive flap wheels, you’ll appreciate how much less rework you’ll do with these for coating removal.

Heat management is solid. Even during longer passes, the discs didn’t glaze or smear. The open structure keeps air moving, and the resin bond seems to tolerate short bursts of pressure without chunking out. I still recommend taking brief breaks and wiping the workpiece; staying ahead of heat and swarf always pays off.

Durability and lifespan

For 2-inch web discs, longevity is respectable. The edges wore evenly and the buttons stayed intact. On the trailer frame job, I used three discs (two blue, one purple) for the bulk of the cleanup and they still had life left. On aluminum, lifespan depends heavily on speed and pressure: keep rpm in check and don’t bear down, and they last much longer. Versus bargain web discs I’ve used, these ran cooler and resisted shredding on sharp corners. They’re not indestructible; push them like a grinding wheel and they’ll pay you back by disintegrating.

Using a drill vs. die grinder

Both work, but they behave differently:

• Die grinder (pneumatic or electric): Best balance of speed and control. The compact nose lets you get into corners and around brackets, and 20–25k rpm keeps the cut crisp without tearing the web.

• Cordless drill: Handy and accessible, especially for quick cleanup or field work. Keep the speed up but steady; avoid feathering the trigger at very low rpm where the disc tends to grab. The drill’s bulk can make certain angles awkward on tight frames.

Whichever you use, keep the pad flat to the surface and sweep in overlapping strokes. Tilting hard onto the edge of the disc is the fastest way to shorten its life and mar the finish.

Limitations and quirks

• Not a heavy grinder: These are for coating removal and conditioning. If you need to move metal, use a flap disc or grinding wheel first.

• Softer coatings can clog: Thick latex or adhesives will load the web. Tap the disc on a scrap edge to clear it, or switch discs before you build too much heat.

• Disc removal can be tight: After hot runs, the button threads feel tacky. Let it cool, use gloves, and avoid overtightening on install.

• Max rpm is a rating, not a target: I’ve had the best results in the 15–25k rpm window on a die grinder. Faster isn’t automatically better.

Safety notes

Wear eye and hearing protection, gloves, and a respirator appropriate to the coating you’re removing—old paint and rust dust aren’t friendly. Confirm the direction of the roll‑lock thread and keep your off‑hand clear of the work. Secure the workpiece; these discs like to “pull” slightly as they bite.

Value and who it suits

You’re getting a useful spread of aggressiveness in one compact kit, plus the backing pad and shanks to run them on the tools most people already have. For auto body prep, small shop fabrication, restoration work, and general maintenance, this set covers 90% of the coating-removal tasks I encounter. If your work is predominantly heavy grinding, masonry, or thick elastomeric coatings, you’ll want different consumables.

Recommendation

I recommend the Pukamam 2-inch stripping discs for anyone who needs controlled, efficient removal of rust, paint, oxidation, or weld discoloration on metal. The three-tier system (purple/blue/black) makes it easy to match aggressiveness to the job, the roll‑lock system is fast, and the discs hold up well when run at sensible speeds with proper technique. They’re not the answer for heavy stock removal or concrete, and they can be stubborn to unthread after hot use, but as a compact, versatile surface conditioning kit, they earn a spot in the drawer.