DeWalt 4" 6 TPI T-shank fast cut wood jig saw blade

A fast-cutting jigsaw blade that favors speed over polish

I’ve been running the DeWalt 6 TPI wood jigsaw blade as my go-to for rough carpentry tasks—cutting electrical box openings in sheathing, trimming subfloor panels, notching 2x stock, and carving out curves where a circular saw can’t reach. In those roles, it’s done exactly what I want: move fast, clear chips aggressively, and stay reasonably cool without burning through its edge in a single weekend. If you’re expecting a furniture-grade finish, look elsewhere; if you want to make short work of softwood and construction sheet goods, this blade earns its keep.

Build and design

This is a 4-inch, high-carbon steel, T-shank blade with 6 teeth per inch and deeper-than-average gullets. The geometry tells the story:

• 6 TPI is coarse, optimized for speed and chip evacuation.
• High-carbon steel brings flexibility and sharp initial bite, ideal for softwood and many sheet goods.
• Deep gullets help the blade clear sawdust quickly, reducing heat buildup and binding.

The length is appropriate for typical jigsaw work in 3/4-inch to 1-1/2-inch material. You can stretch it into 2x stock, but expect more potential for deflection, especially during tight curves or aggressive orbital action.

Setup and compatibility

Installation is dead simple with the T-shank. I’ve dropped these into both a DeWalt and a Bosch jigsaw without issue. The fit is snug, and there’s no slop in the clamp. Blade changes take seconds, which matters when you’re swapping between coarse and fine-tooth blades on a trim-out or alternating between materials on a remodel.

One practical note: the 4-inch length is easier to keep perpendicular than longer blades, which helps with square cuts, but you still need to moderate feed rate and orbital setting to keep the cut plumb in thicker stock.

Cutting performance: speed first

In softwood framing lumber, this blade is quick. With the jigsaw set to a mid-to-high orbital action and a moderate feed, I can crosscut a pine 2x4 cleanly and with little effort. Rough timing a series of cuts, I was averaging just under 10 seconds per crosscut, which is brisk for a jigsaw. On 3/4-inch plywood, it tracks well along a line and happily rips or curves with minimal stalling. OSB behaves similarly, though chip-out is more pronounced at the top face, as expected.

Plunge cuts are controlled, provided you start the cut with the shoe firmly planted and let the teeth bite gradually. The deep gullets help avoid that “chatter and bounce” you can get with finer-tooth blades when you nose in.

Where the blade shines:
- Fast rough cuts in 2x softwood
- Cutouts in sheathing and subfloor
- Long, sweeping curves in plywood
- Notching, scribing, and demolition tasks

Surface finish and tear-out

There’s no pretending here: a 6 TPI upcut profile prioritizes speed, and the top surface will splinter in plywood and veneered stock. In construction contexts (subfloor, roof sheathing, utility cutouts) it’s a non-issue. For visible faces, slow your feed, dial down orbital action, and back the cut with painter’s tape or a sacrificial board. Even with those tricks, you won’t get a trim-ready edge—plan on a sanding pass or a switch to a higher TPI “clean cut” blade for finish work.

In solid softwood, the cut face is surprisingly decent for a coarse blade. I’d call it “project-ready” for shop tasks where edges will be concealed, painted, or eased.

Control, accuracy, and line tracking

Blade deflection is the Achilles’ heel of many jigsaw setups. With this blade, I found the following settings helped maintain a square kerf:
- Low to mid orbital action for cuts thicker than 1 inch
- Support the base fully and keep constant forward pressure; don’t muscle it through knots
- Use sharp, minimal-retraction strokes by letting the saw do the work

On straight rips in 3/4-inch plywood, I had no trouble following a marked line within a blade-width of variance. Tight radii are less friendly; the coarse tooth pattern means you need to “nibble” more deliberately to avoid chattering. For cabinet-grade curves or templates, switch to a finer blade.

Durability and heat

High-carbon steel isn’t as long-lived as bi-metal or carbide in abrasive materials, but chip clearance here is excellent, which helps the edge hold up longer than I expected. After a weekend of framing cutouts and trimming OSB, the leading teeth were still cutting briskly with no obvious rounding. Avoid drywall, cement board, or hidden fasteners; a stray screw will chip the edge instantly. In hardwoods, the blade still cuts, but the edge goes dull quicker—good enough for rough notches in oak, not ideal for a whole project.

Heat buildup was modest. The blade stayed relatively cool in softwood and plywood, even during continuous cuts, provided dust could escape. If you see scorch marks, back off the feed rate and reduce orbital action.

Where it fits in the kit

I’d position this as my “construction and rough carpentry” jigsaw blade. It’s the one I grab for:
- Subfloor notches around vents and pipes
- Speedy rip-downs on temporary forms and braces
- Slicing out window and door openings in sheathing
- Cutting curves in shop jigs where surface quality isn’t critical

If I’m working on visible plywood shelves, veneered panels, or laminate, I swap to a higher TPI blade or a down-cut specialty blade. For tough hardwoods or frequent nail encounters, a bi-metal or carbide-tooth option is worth the upgrade.

Value and pack quantity

The five-pack makes sense. Jigsaw blades are consumables, and having backups in the pouch keeps the work moving. Given the performance in softwood and common sheet goods, the cost per cut is favorable. The quick-change T-shank and broad compatibility keep it flexible, and the 30-day money-back policy is a nice safety net if it doesn’t fit your workflow.

Tips for best results

• Use orbital action for speed, and reduce it for thicker stock or when you notice deflection.
• Support both sides of the cut in sheet goods to minimize vibration and splintering.
• For cleaner top edges, tape the cut line or flip the work so the tear-out happens on the hidden face.
• Let the blade clear chips; if it bogs down, back off and re-enter with a lighter feed.
• Keep a fine-tooth blade in the case for finish passes; swapping takes seconds with the T-shank.

Limitations to consider

• Not a finish blade: expect splintering on the top face of plywood and veneers.
• HCS edge life is good in softwood, modest in hardwood, and poor around fasteners.
• The 4-inch length is versatile, but in 2x lumber the blade can wander if you push too hard.
• Tight curves require patience; the coarse tooth and deep gullets resist tight turning.

Bottom line

The DeWalt 6 TPI wood jigsaw blade is an unapologetically fast cutter for softwood and construction sheet goods. It installs quickly, tracks straight with sensible settings, and holds its edge well enough to get through a lot of rough-in work before retiring. It won’t give you furniture-ready edges, but that’s not its job.

Recommendation: I recommend this blade for anyone who uses a jigsaw primarily for framing, remodeling, and general shop tasks where speed and control matter more than a pristine edge. It’s a reliable, cost-effective consumable to keep in a five-pack, and it pairs nicely with a finer blade for finish cuts. If your work leans heavily toward hardwoods, laminates, or visible cabinetry, make this your rough-cut companion and complement it with higher TPI or carbide options for the final pass.