DeWalt 4-1/2" (115mm) - 5" (125mm) High Performance Trigger Switch Grinder

Why I reached for this grinder

I keep a few 4-1/2 to 5-inch grinders around because they’re the workhorses of a metal shop. I picked up DeWalt’s trigger-style 13-amp grinder for a stretch of fabrication work that mixed heavy weld cleanup, beveling plate, and a fair bit of cutoff duty. I wanted something with the punch of a 13A motor, real electronic protection for kickback events, and a trigger switch with a lock-on for longer grinds. This DeWalt checked those boxes on paper. In use, it’s a capable, fast-spinning grinder with well-thought-out safety electronics, a couple of compromises, and a very approachable price-to-performance balance.

Setup and first impressions

Out of the box you get the tool, a side handle, inner and outer flanges, and a 5-inch Type 27 guard. Fit and finish are what I expect from DeWalt: tight gearcase, clean casting lines, and solid switch feel. The guard mounted square and stayed put, and the flanges are the standard profile you’ll want for both depressed-center and flap discs. Spindle size is the common 5/8-11, so all my discs and cup wheels threaded or mounted without drama. Note: if you plan to run Type 1 cutoff wheels, plan on picking up the appropriate cutting guard—this one ships with a Type 27 grinding guard.

Power and speed under load

This grinder is built around a 13-amp, 11,000 RPM motor with a rated 1700 Max Watts Out. On steel, that translates to very usable torque and an eagerness to keep its speed up with aggressive 36–60 grit grinding discs. I put it through:

• Edge beveling 3/8-inch mild steel plate
• Weld cleanup on multipass fillets
• Regular cutoff work with 0.045-inch wheels on 1-1/2-inch angle

It holds RPM well unless you really lean on it, and even then it recovers quickly when you back off a hair. Compared to other 13A grinders in the shop, it sits squarely in the “strong” tier. It’s not a torque monster like some premium, heavier-bodied units, but the power-to-weight is excellent for a compact housing.

Electronic clutch and overloads: how they behave

Two electronics stand out:

• Electronic anti-rotation clutch (E-Clutch): If a wheel pinches or stalls, the motor is cut in a blink. It’s fast enough that the tool doesn’t wrench your wrist. This is not a mechanical “kickback brake” that clamps the wheel; rather, it kills drive power. You still need to keep a firm grip and proper body position, but the event is controlled and predictable.
• Overload protection: Push it hard in a deep bind or extended heavy grind and it will shut down to protect itself instead of cooking the windings. I managed to trigger this once hogging on the edge of a plate with a fresh ceramic disc. It cooled in a minute and went right back to work.

Power Loss Reset is another quiet win. If power drops (breaker trip, unplug, generator hiccup), the grinder won’t restart when the juice returns until you cycle the trigger. If you bounce between outlets in a busy shop, that behavior will save you a few surprises.

Dust management and cooling

Grinding throws junk everywhere, and most grinders eventually inhale it. The Dust Ejection System on this model doesn’t make it a vacuum, but it does help. After a day of scaling mill slag and grinding spatter, the intake vents stayed noticeably clearer than on my older units. I still blow the tool out with compressed air at lunch and end of day—good practice either way—but it’s nice to see fewer fines caked in the vents and under the brush doors.

The motor housing runs warm, not hot, with normal use. When you’re doing repeated heavy grinds, the combination of airflow and electronic overloads keeps temperatures in check. I like tools that protect themselves; it generally means fewer armature/field repairs down the line.

Trigger switch, lock-on, and handling

The trigger switch has a crisp action and an easy-to-manage lock-on for longer passes. I prefer triggers for grinding and paddles for cutoff work, but this trigger layout feels safe and intuitive. The body is slender enough to choke up on, and the side handle helps you index accurately on bevels and fillets. Vibration is controlled for a grinder in this class; you still know you’re holding an 11,000 RPM motor, but it’s not numbing.

A couple of notes on ergonomics:

• The tool is 16.5 inches long, which gives solid leverage but makes it feel slightly nose-forward with a 5-inch wheel and full guard. Two-handed grip cures that.
• The included side handle is basic but sturdy. Thread fit is clean and the handle stays tight.

Noise is typical for a high-speed grinder—ear protection is a must. With cutoff wheels, it’s loud; with flap discs, slightly better.

Compatibility and accessories

• Wheel size: It’s rated for 4-1/2 to 5 inches. If you can, use 5-inch discs—the extra diameter buys you cut depth and disc life without sacrificing rated speed.
• Guard: Included Type 27 guard covers grinding and flap discs. Pick up a Type 1 guard for dedicated cutting.
• Spindle: 5/8-11 opens the door to backing pads, wire cups, and the usual roster of metalworking attachments.

Brushes are service items on a tool like this. Keep an eye on them periodically, especially if you run the grinder daily. The 1-year free service and the 3-year limited warranty are welcome backstops.

Corded realities

You get a 6-foot cord. In a shop with ceiling drops that’s fine; on a jobsite you’ll live on an extension cord. Because this is a 13-amp tool, pair it with a properly gauged cord (12-gauge for longer runs) to avoid voltage drop that saps performance. It’s a 120V AC tool and not rated for DC sources.

One operational note: there’s no electronic brake to stop the wheel after you release the trigger. Spin-down is normal for a grinder, but if you’re used to “braked” tools, plan for the extra seconds before setting it down.

Durability and maintenance

The gearcase and guard hardware shrug off everyday abuse. I’ve dropped it to concrete once with a wheel on; the guard took the scuff and the tool kept running true. Between the Dust Ejection System and the overload protection, it’s set up to live a long, serviceable life. Maintenance for me has boiled down to:

• Blow out the vents daily when grinding a lot of scale or concrete
• Inspect and replace brushes periodically
• Keep the guard clean so it seats fully and doesn’t bind on the collar
• Don’t ignore the cord—6 feet means it sees more plug cycles; check strain relief

What I’d change

• Add a brake: A rapid electronic brake would be a welcome safety and productivity upgrade, especially for frequent cutoff work.
• Longer cord: Another couple of feet would make it friendlier away from bench power.
• Clearer guard pathway: Ship it with both Type 27 and Type 1 guards. Many users split time between grinding and cutting, and swapping guards is part of life; having both in the box would be ideal.

None of these are deal-breakers, but they’re worth knowing before you buy.

Who it’s for

• Fabricators and welders who want a compact, powerful grinder with real electronic safety features.
• Pros and serious DIYers who split time between flap discs, depressed-center grinding wheels, and occasional cutoff work.
• Anyone who values anti-restart and stall protection but doesn’t need a braked wheel.

If you’re exclusively running thin cutoff wheels or you must have a braking grinder, there are other models better suited to that niche. If you run tools off DC sources, look elsewhere.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt trigger grinder. It delivers strong 13-amp performance, a fast-reacting electronic clutch for pinch events, and thoughtful protections like overload shutoff and anti-restart—all in a compact, comfortable package. Day to day, it grinds quickly, cuts cleanly with the right guard, and stays cooler and cleaner than many peers thanks to its dust management. The trade-offs—no brake, a short cord, and a single grinding guard in the box—are manageable and clear up front. For most metalworking tasks in a shop or jobsite setting, it’s a dependable, well-balanced choice that earns its keep without drama.