DeWalt 9/16 in. x 17 in. Power Ship Auger Bit

Why I reached for this auger

I picked up this 9/16 x 17 auger to run electrical and plumbing through existing framing without opening up long sections of wall. The size is a sweet spot for 1/2-inch runs with a little clearance, and the extra length promised single-pass holes through doubled studs and 4x stock. After several projects—old studs, new framing, softwoods, and a few surprises hidden in the lumber—I have a good sense of where this bit shines and where it asks for a little care.

Design and build

The bit is built around a self-feed tip that pulls the cutting edges into the work. You don’t push hard; you steer and let it feed. Dual cutting lips do the material removal, and a hollow center flute moves chips out of the hole. The body is hardened alloy steel with heat treatment that stands up well to clean wood and the occasional bump into something tougher.

The 7/16-inch ball-groove shank is a thoughtful touch. It seats solidly in a 1/2-inch chuck and also snaps into compatible quick-change adaptors, which keeps swaps fast if you’re moving between sizes. At 17 inches overall length, you get reach that’s useful in real framing scenarios without being so long it’s unwieldy in most bays.

Overall fit and finish are what I expect: the lead point is clean, the lips are even, and the flute is smooth. Out of the box, it feels ready for work.

In-use performance in clean wood

In new studs and SPF 4x4s, the bit bites immediately and pulls itself in with a predictable, steady feed. I kept my drill in low gear—think 300–600 rpm—because augers reward torque more than speed. At that pace, the cut is controlled and chips come out in healthy curls. The hollow center flute does a good job clearing chips in dry stock; you can go several inches before needing to back out.

On deeper bores (6–12 inches), I’d advance a few inches, reverse to break chips, and withdraw to clear the flute, then continue. That rhythm keeps heat down and the lead tip tracking. In straight-grain pine, the bit tracks true with minimal wander. It also does well across laminations in glued-up stock; the self-feed tip bridges the joint without hiccups.

I used it both vertically and horizontally. Horizontally through 4x material, I could lean on the drill body and keep everything aligned. Vertically, you feel more of the bit’s pull; the feed is still controlled, but it will test your wrist if your drill doesn’t have a side handle.

Nails and the “dual cutting edge” claim

I did hit metal—old finish nails and a drywall screw buried in a stud. The bit didn’t stop. You feel the impact, then the lips push through. That dual cutting edge isn’t a marketing flourish; it buys you progress where a traditional single-lip auger might chip a tooth or stall.

That said, metal has a cost. After a handful of nail encounters and a day of boring through older, knotty studs, I noticed the edges had lost some of their initial bite. The bit still worked in clean wood, but feed pressure went up, and the chips looked fuzzier. A quick touch-up with a fine file on the cutting lips brought performance back. Don’t touch the self-feed tip unless you know how to dress it properly—altering that geometry can ruin the pull. Light, careful strokes on the cutting edges are enough; you’re restoring sharpness, not reshaping.

If you’ll regularly punch through nail-embedded framing, know that this bit will get you through, but you’ll want to budget time for occasional touch-ups or consider a carbide-tipped ship auger for longer edge life at a higher price.

Handling and drill pairing

This is a lot of bit. Pair it with a drill that has a low-speed, high-torque gear and a side handle. I ran it on an 18–20V cordless drill/driver in low gear with the auxiliary handle attached and had no trouble controlling the feed. The self-feed tip helps—once it’s started, you’re guiding more than pushing—but torque spikes still happen when you hit knots or dense grain.

A few tips that kept things safe and smooth:
- Skip hammer mode; it adds nothing for augers.
- Use the side handle and plant your feet before starting.
- Keep rpm modest; faster isn’t better with a self-feed.
- If the bit starts to stall, stop, reverse to clear chips, then continue.

The length is both a benefit and a limitation. It reaches through two studs in one pass, which is fantastic for clean, aligned holes, but it does demand more clearance around your drill. In tight bays right against sheathing, you’ll wish for a stubby auger or an angle drill.

Accuracy over length

Starting straight is the whole game. I mark entry and exit points when possible and use a small torpedo level on the drill body. The lead tip reduces skating, so a gentle trigger squeeze while seated on your mark works well. On very long bores, I like to start from both sides and meet in the middle, but with 17 inches to play with, I could clear most common runs from one side. The bit stays true if you don’t fight it—let the self-feed do its thing and correct angle slowly if you drift.

Chip ejection and heat

Chip evacuation is good, not magic. In dry framing, the hollow flute clears well. In wet or resinous lumber (pressure-treated or green), chips pack sooner. Backing out every few inches keeps performance consistent and reduces heat. If you notice the flute loading up and chips turning dusty, you’re pushing too hard or running too fast.

A little paste wax on the flutes helped in sappy stock. It reduced friction and made cleanout easier.

Maintenance and sharpening

After a workday, I wipe off resin, knock any pitch out of the flute, and oil the bit lightly. For sharpening, a small auger file or a fine diamond card on the flat faces of the cutting lips is all you need. Take minimal passes and keep angles consistent. Don’t deepen the spurs or mess with the lead screw geometry unless you’re confident—small changes there have big effects on feed.

Stored in a bit roll or with a tip guard, it holds up well. The heat-treated body resists dings, and the shank has stayed square despite frequent swaps.

Value and warranty

Pricewise, it sits in the “buy once, use often” category—not disposable, not premium carbide. The 30-day money-back window is reassuring if you realize the size isn’t right for your work. For general electrical and plumbing rough-in, the combination of reach, self-feed speed, and quick-change shank makes sense. If your day job is punching through old, nail-laden joists nonstop, a carbide option might be a better long-term value despite the upfront hit.

Who it’s for

• Electricians and plumbers who need single-pass holes through two studs 16 inches on center.
• Remodelers and DIYers running Romex, PEX, or small conduit through existing framing.
• Anyone with a capable drill who wants a self-feeding auger that tracks straight and clears chips well.

Who should look elsewhere:
- Pros regularly encountering heavy nail content who prioritize maximum edge life over cost.
- Users restricted to compact drills without side handles working mostly in vertical positions.
- Those working in very tight cavities where a 17-inch bit simply won’t fit.

Recommendation

I recommend this DeWalt auger for general framing and remodel work where you need fast, straight 9/16-inch holes and the reach to clear two studs in one pass. It feeds smoothly, clears chips reliably, and the shank plays nicely with quick-change setups. It will chew through the occasional hidden nail without quitting, but expect to touch up the cutting edges if metal strikes become common. Pair it with a torque-capable drill, keep the speed conservative, and clear chips regularly, and it’ll serve you well.

If your workflow involves daily contact with nails or screws in old framing, consider stepping up to a carbide-tipped ship auger for better edge longevity. For everyone else—especially electricians and DIY remodelers—this bit hits a practical balance of speed, reach, and control at a fair price.