Skil Router Table

I rolled this compact Skil router table into the shop for a few weeks of edge profiles, template work, and light joinery. It’s a small, portable setup that makes a lot of promises for the price—above-table height adjustment, integrated storage, and a full-width fence—and it does deliver on some of them. It also asks you to live with (or fix) a few rough edges.

Setup and build

Assembly is straightforward and takes under an hour. The laminated 26 x 16 in. MDF top is flat and slick enough to move stock easily. The aluminum mounting plate comes predrilled for common patterns and drops into the opening with minimal fuss. Mine needed a careful round of leveling so the plate sat perfectly flush with the top; if you see a lip, take the time to dial it out with the set screws or shim—any proud edge around the bit will catch your work and make passes uneven.

The table’s footprint and overall height make it truly benchtop-friendly, but think about where it will live. On a standard 36 in. bench, the working height may feel a bit tall. I preferred it on a lower rolling stand or a stout MFT-style table so I could keep my elbows and sight line where I like them.

Stability is decent. The table is light and easy to move, but you’ll want to clamp it down or anchor it to a stand for longer stock and heavier cuts. Portability is a real advantage here; I moved it around the shop as tasks changed, and it never felt like a chore.

Work surface and plate

• Surface: Flat, smooth MDF with a durable laminate. It’s fine for small to medium workpieces, narrow stiles and rails, trim, and light profiling.
• Plate: The aluminum plate is rigid and supports mid-size fixed-base routers confidently. Once leveled, it stayed put during use.

Compatibility with the quick-release clamp was good with my mid-size routers. Trim/palm routers worked, but took a bit more futzing to get centered and secure. Swapping routers is genuinely fast, which is the point of a clamp system like this.

Fence: serviceable, not stellar

The fence is the table’s most limiting component. It spans the full width of the deck and includes MDF faces you can set for zero-clearance around the bit. Those faces adjust easily and, when the fence is dialed in, they deliver clean, low-tearout results on small profiles.

The backbone, however, is plastic, and the lock-down hardware rides in channels cut through the top. Two things result:
- Rigidity: The fence deflects a bit under pressure, especially when you’re taking a heavier pass or pushing a tall workpiece. You can work around it with light cuts and steady feed, but it isn’t confidence-inspiring for precision joinery.
- Squaring and lock-down: Getting the fence exactly parallel to the miter slot, then keeping it there while tightening, takes patience. Tightening can nudge the fence slightly out of alignment. I had the best results by tightening both sides in small increments and rechecking with a rule after each half-turn.

There’s no micro-adjust on the fence, and the onboard scale on the table is more reference than measurement. I ended up using a steel rule from the bit to the fence face for reliable setups. If you need rock-solid repeatability and precise offset jointing, you’ll either want to upgrade the fence hardware (better knobs, washers, and carriage bolts go a long way) or plan on an aftermarket fence.

Height adjustment and lift

The above-table height adjustment is the feature that initially caught my eye. Being able to raise and lower the bit from the top is simply more convenient than fishing under the table. On this model, the top-side adjust works, but it’s coarse and has noticeable backlash. I could sneak up on a height setting, but fine changes often overshot, so I’d creep up with test cuts rather than trust the marks.

Durability-wise, the mechanism feels more “DIY” than “production.” It’s fine for occasional adjustments and light bits; for frequent precision work, I got more predictable results relying on the router’s own micro-adjust when available. The good news: if you don’t love the top adjuster, you can still make your changes under the table.

Dust collection

There’s a rear dust port and a clear guard that does a credible job collecting fines during light profiling. With small round-overs and chamfers, collection is surprisingly effective. On heavier cuts, big chips tend to clog the port unless you’re connected to a strong vac and using a larger-diameter hose. Taking shallower passes helps, and removing the guard for through-cuts reduces clogging. I’d call dust collection adequate for trim work and marginal for aggressive material removal.

Accessories and storage

You get two featherboards, a basic miter gauge, a starter pin, and multiple insert rings. The featherboards are actually quite useful; they tame chatter on narrow stock and keep the work registered to the fence. The miter gauge is a “nice to have” but I rarely use a miter gauge on a router table—most guided work is fence-based or done with a dedicated sled.

Integrated bit storage on both sides is handy for a small set of commonly used profiles. It’s not sealed, though, so expect sawdust to migrate into those cubbies. If you care about pristine bit storage, keep your primary bit cases elsewhere and treat these as temporary holders.

On the table: performance and workflow

For small furniture parts, trim carpentry, and edge profiles, this table does what it says. I ran a couple dozen 1/16 to 1/8 in. round-overs on chair components and had a smooth, efficient workflow: featherboard set, fence faces tight to the bit, and repeatable passes with minimal cleanup. Template routing with a flush-trim bit was also comfortable; the table size is enough to support narrow rails and drawer parts, and the plate didn’t flex under load.

Where it struggles is the transition from hobby-level profiling to precision joinery and heavy stock shaping:
- Jointing with the fence offset is fussy. You can emulate an offset with shims or tape on the outfeed face, but the fence’s lock-down consistency limits how precise you can be.
- Tall panels and big bits (e.g., raised-panel profiles) push the limits of the fence’s rigidity and the dust port’s capacity. It’s not the table I’d choose for that work.
- Fine height moves are possible, but not as confidence-inspiring as a true lift with micro-adjust and a solid elevation screw.

What I’d improve first

If you’re handy and enjoy tuning, a few tweaks materially improve the experience:
- Upgrade the fence hardware: Better star knobs, longer carriage bolts, and square washers keep the fence from shifting while tightening.
- Add sacrificial zero-clearance faces: A pair of flat hardwood or phenolic faces with slots gives cleaner cuts and reduces chip-out further.
- Improve dust collection: Step up to the largest hose you can adapt and keep the runs short. Take lighter passes when hogging.
- Anchor the table: Bolt it to a dedicated stand or cleat it to your bench for stability on long workpieces.

Who it’s for

• A first router table for DIYers and hobby woodworkers working mostly with small to medium stock and common profiles.
• A portable secondary table for those who want to leave a main table set up for a specific operation and keep this one for quick round-overs, chamfers, and flush trimming.
• Anyone who values light weight and quick setup more than ironclad rigidity and precision accessories.

If your workflow leans on precision fence moves, micro-height adjustments, or heavy, tall workpieces, you’ll want a heavier table and a stiffer fence system.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skil router table as an affordable, portable option for light to moderate routing tasks, with the caveat that you’ll get the best out of it by tuning the fence hardware and managing dust proactively. Its flat, smooth top, quick router clamp, and included featherboards make it easy to knock out everyday profiles and small parts efficiently. The fence and height adjuster are its weak links; they’re workable with patience and upgrades, but they’re not built for exacting, repeatable precision. If you’re starting out or need a secondary table you can move around the shop, it’s a solid value. If your projects demand a rock-solid fence, micro-adjust lifts, and heavy-duty dust collection, I wouldn’t recommend it as your primary table—look for a heavier, more rigid setup instead.