Skil 7 IN. Wet Tile Saw

First impressions and setup

I set up the Skil 7-in wet saw on a folding stand in the driveway, filled the reservoir, and was cutting within 10 minutes. At 18 pounds it’s easy to carry in one hand, and the footprint is compact enough to live on a small bench or a jobsite table. The stainless top is a nice touch at this price—corrosion resistance matters when you’re working around slurry all day—and it gives a smooth surface to slide tile across. The side extension snaps on to support larger pieces, and while it’s not a substitute for a full cart-style table, it does keep 8–12 inch tiles from tipping.

The layout is straightforward: an adjustable rip fence with a miter gauge slot, a beveling table that tilts to 45 degrees, and a simple water reservoir under the blade. There’s nothing exotic to learn here, which is exactly what you want if you’re tackling a bathroom or kitchen project over a weekend.

Water management

Skil’s Hydro Lock splash control keeps mess in check better than most open-tray budget saws. You’ll still get spray off the blade and some slurry on your hands, but I could work without soaking my shirt or the surrounding area. The reservoir is easy to access and clean; I topped off every 20–30 minutes during heavier cutting, more often when pushing dense porcelain.

A couple of practical tips:
- Put the saw in a mortar mixing tub or on a plastic sheet to catch drips.
- Keep a small brush on hand to sweep slurry away from the cut line.
- Change water when it turns into chocolate milk; fresh water cools better and reduces chipping.

Cutting performance

For straight cuts in ceramic and lighter porcelain, the Skil saw gets it done. The 4.2 A motor and 7-inch blade spin at 3600 RPM, which is modest power by pro standards but adequate if you let the blade work. Pushing harder just heats things up and invites edge blowout. With a steady feed and light pressure, I was able to produce clean, usable cuts for backsplashes and floor tile.

On denser porcelain and stone, the saw slows down, and the last half inch of a cut is where chipping wants to appear. Two things made a noticeable difference:
- Upgrading to a high-quality continuous rim porcelain blade.
- Finishing each cut with a slow, controlled exit—either by flipping the piece to meet the kerf from the other side or by easing off the feed pressure for the last inch.

If you plan to cut a lot of natural stone (travertine, marble), go slow and expect to dress the blade periodically. For mosaic sheets, I had good luck sandwiching the sheet between two scrap tiles to keep the individual pieces from chattering.

Accuracy and adjustments

Out of the box, my fence was close but not perfect. I recommend squaring the fence to the blade with a machinist square before your first cuts. Once dialed in, the adjustable rip fence holds position well enough for repeatable rips, though there is a bit of flex if you lean on it. The miter gauge works for small angle cuts, but like most budget gauges it has some play. If accuracy is critical on angled rips, I prefer to clamp a sacrificial guide at the desired angle and run the tile against that.

The table tilts from 0–45 degrees for bevels. The scale is legible, but I still set the angle with a digital gauge when I need precision. The bevel mechanism locks firmly; however, keep in mind that beveling reduces the effective capacity and blade guard clearance, so it’s best suited to smaller tiles and lighter passes.

Capacity and limitations

This is a compact saw, and its capacities reflect that:
- Crosscut capacity: 7.75 inches
- Diagonal capacity: 7.25 inches
- Max supported tile: 12 x 12 inches on the table

For 12 x 12 tiles, straight cuts are fine; you’ll feed, flip, and complete the cut from the opposite side. Diagonal cuts on 12 x 12 aren’t possible in one pass—the diagonal is simply too long—so you’ll need to score and snap or plan your layout to avoid large diagonals. The side extension helps hold larger pieces, but you are still hand-feeding across a stationary blade. If you’re coming from a pro cart saw with a sliding table, adjust expectations; this is a different workflow that rewards patience and a steady hand.

Ergonomics, noise, and vibration

Vibration is well controlled for the size, and the stainless top stays slick even when wet, which helps with feed consistency. Noise is moderate; it’s still a tile saw, so hearing protection is a good idea. The blade guard contains spray reasonably well and provides finger clearance, but for narrow rips I use a push block to keep hands away from the blade.

Blade considerations and upgrades

The included 7-inch diamond blade will get you through a small project, but it’s a general-purpose wheel. If your job includes porcelain, a premium continuous rim porcelain blade is the best single upgrade you can make. It reduces chipping and lets you slow the feed rate without burning the tile. Keep a dressing stone handy—when the blade starts to wander or cut hot, a few passes will expose fresh diamond.

Maintenance and care

Clean-up is simple: unplug, remove the guard, lift the reservoir, and dump the slurry. Rinse the table and underside to keep grit from wearing the tilt and fence mechanisms. Wipe the stainless top dry to prevent fine residue buildup. Check that the blade remains tight and square to the fence before each session. There aren’t pumps or hoses to clog here; the blade dips into the tray, which keeps the system reliable and easy to maintain.

Who it’s for

• DIYers tackling a bathroom floor, tub surround, laundry, or backsplash who want better results than a snap cutter can deliver.
• Occasional users who need wet cutting capability without the cost, size, and learning curve of a pro cart saw.
• Pros who want a compact second saw for small on-site touches, though not as a primary machine.

Where it falls short

• Large-format work is outside its wheelhouse. If you’re cutting 24-inch porcelain or running diagonal cuts on 12-inch tiles all day, you’ll want a bigger cart saw.
• The modest motor can bog if you force it, and the last inch of cuts is prone to chipping unless you use good technique and a quality blade.
• The fence and miter gauge are serviceable but not precision instruments; plan to calibrate and work thoughtfully for best results.

Practical cutting tips

• Mark both faces of the tile and flip to finish long cuts to minimize exit chips.
• Use painter’s tape across the cut line for fragile glazes.
• Let the blade score the first pass lightly, then complete the cut.
• Keep the reservoir topped off; warm, silty water increases chip-out.
• Support offcuts so they don’t break away and take glaze with them.

Value

For the price and size, the Skil saw punches above its weight. It brings true wet cutting—cooling, dust suppression, and the ability to handle stone and porcelain—to a compact, approachable package. You trade speed and capacity for that accessibility. If you’re doing a single bath or a handful of projects a year, that trade is easy to live with. If you’re a tile setter cutting every day, you’ll outgrow it quickly.

Recommendation

I recommend the Skil saw for homeowners and occasional users who want clean, accurate wet cuts on small to medium ceramic and porcelain projects without investing in a larger cart saw. It’s portable, simple to maintain, and capable of professional-looking results if you pair it with a quality blade and patient technique. I wouldn’t recommend it as a primary saw for large-format tile or heavy daily use—capacity and power will limit you there—but as a budget-friendly, reliable wet saw for typical DIY projects, it’s an easy yes.