Generic Extra Capacity Fuel Tank Standpipe Kit for Diesel Heaters - All-Metal Rust-Proof Cap with 36” Tubing, Tygn Connectors, Hose Clamps, and Fuel Filter - Extend Runtime with 5-Gallon Diesel Tank

Why I wanted this

Babysitting a tiny onboard tank on a portable diesel heater gets old fast. In my shop and during winter camping trips, I’d find myself topping off every day or two, timing refills around heat cycles, and inevitably spilling a little diesel when the wind or cold fingers got in the way. I picked up this standpipe kit to make the heater pull from a standard 5‑gallon can, with the hope of stretching runtime and simplifying refuels.

After several weeks using it in a garage workspace and on a frosty weekend in a roof‑top tent, I can say it solved the core problem: longer, more predictable runtime with fewer interruptions. It’s not perfect, and you’ll want to plan your routing and venting carefully, but the fundamentals are solid.

What’s in the box and build quality

The kit centers on a zinc‑coated metal standpipe that threads into an EZ‑Pour–style cap. Both the cap and the standpipe feel stout—no thin, mystery alloy here. The standpipe is straight, cleanly cut, and has a small intake opening near the end so it doesn’t vacuum the very bottom of the can (where sediment can live).

The included fuel line is 36 inches of polyethylene, which stays reasonably flexible down near freezing but does stiffen when temps drop well below that. The connections are made with short Tygon fuel‑grade sections acting as couplers, and there are six stainless hose clamps to secure everything. An in‑line fuel filter is included; it’s a simple, compact unit with a clear body so you can monitor contamination and the initial prime.

Overall, the parts are better than the no‑name grab bag you might cobble together yourself. The metal cap and standpipe are the standout pieces—they’ll outlast plastic alternatives and don’t care about cold or UV the way plastic does.

Installation: what worked for me

There’s no paper manual, so here’s the process I used:

1) Test fit the cap to your can. The cap is an EZ‑Pour–style thread. It fit two modern 5‑gallon plastic diesel cans I own. If you have older or specialty cans, check compatibility before you commit to the install.

2) Set the standpipe depth. Insert the standpipe through the cap and adjust the length so the intake sits roughly 1/2 inch off the bottom of the can. That avoids sucking up settled debris while still letting you use most of the fuel. Tighten the compression nut by hand and snug it with a wrench—no need to over-crank.

3) Assemble the fuel line. Slide the Tygon connectors into the polyethylene line ends, then clamp lightly. One end goes to the barb on the cap; the other goes to the filter’s inlet. Mind the arrow on the filter body if present, and clamp both sides. From the filter, run line to your heater’s pump inlet and clamp again.

4) Prime the system. Fill the can with clean, winter‑grade diesel. I prefilled the filter by dipping one end in diesel and letting capillary action do the work; that makes priming faster. Then I used the heater’s priming mode to pull fuel until the line was bubble‑free.

5) Secure and route. Keep the line away from sharp edges and hot components. If the can sits lower than the pump, try to avoid steep vertical rises that trap air.

Important: your can must be able to vent, or the pump will fight a vacuum as fuel is drawn. Many modern cans are sealed until you open a vent or crack a spout. I installed a small can vent (sold separately) on one of my cans. On the other, I loosen the auxiliary cap slightly when the heater runs. Don’t skip venting—fuel delivery becomes inconsistent without it.

Day-to-day performance

With the setup dialed, the heater just runs. A typical 5 kW “Chinese diesel heater” sipping roughly 0.1–0.24 liters per hour can theoretically go 80–190 hours on 5 gallons, depending on heat setting. In practice, I saw multi-day stretches in the garage without touching the can. On a two‑night trip in sub‑freezing weather, I ran the heater on low all night and still had plenty of reserve fuel.

Fuel delivery was stable. I saw no hiccups or misfires once primed, and the in‑line filter stayed clear. The pump clicked at its normal cadence—no unusual strain noises—which tells me the line and head height weren’t pushing the pump beyond its comfort zone. The Tygon couplers and clamps stayed dry; no weeping or fumes.

Swapping cans mid‑run is doable if you prepare. I kept a second can pre‑capped with a second standpipe cap (I bought an extra). To swap, I pinched the feed line gently with a soft-jaw clamp near the filter, unscrewed the cap from the empty can, moved it to the full one, released the pinch, and the heater never skipped a beat. If you only have one cap, you can still swap, but you’ll let a little air in during the changeover; the heater will usually recover after a few seconds or a quick re‑prime.

Fit and compatibility notes

• Cap fit: The cap matched two common 5‑gallon plastic diesel cans in my kit. It did not fit an older metal jerry can with NATO threads (not surprising). If you rely on uncommon cans, check threads before committing.

• Line length: The included 36 inches is enough for a can on the floor next to a heater on a bench or in a small trailer. If you plan to stash the can further away, you’ll want more line. Extending it is straightforward, but the more distance and vertical rise you add, the more care you’ll need with priming and routing.

• Heater type: I ran it with a generic 5 kW diesel heater and a smaller 2 kW unit. Both pumps handled the draw without issue. Keep total suction lift reasonable; these pumps prefer pushing fuel rather than lifting it a long way.

Cold-weather behavior and durability

Cold is where cheap plastics give up, and the metal cap/standpipe shines. The cap threads remained smooth and positive in the teens (°F). The polyethylene line stiffened but didn’t crack or kink under gentle bends. The Tygon connectors stayed pliable and sealed well.

I also appreciate that zinc‑coated steel doesn’t care about a bit of diesel on it. After a few weeks with the cap living on a can in a dusty garage, a quick wipe down made it look new. The stainless clamps did their job and didn’t rust.

Maintenance and safety

• Keep the filter upstream of the pump and in a visible spot so you can check for bubbles and contamination. Replace it at the first sign of restriction or discoloration.

• Inspect clamps after the first couple of heat cycles and again seasonally. A 1/4 turn often settles them after the line relaxes.

• Use clean, seasonally appropriate diesel. Water or waxed fuel will make any pump unhappy.

• Vent the can. This bears repeating: a sealed can will starve your pump.

What I’d change

• Instructions: A one‑page quick start would help first‑time installers get the venting, line routing, and priming right the first time.

• Longer line option: 36 inches works for many setups, but offering a 6‑foot kit variant would cover more scenarios without splicing.

• Optional shutoff: An inline fuel shutoff clip or valve would make mid‑run can swaps cleaner and more controlled.

Who it’s for

• Off‑grid cabins, RVs, and overlanders who want longer heater runtime between refuels.

• Garage or shop users who prefer a 5‑gallon can outside or on the floor rather than the heater’s small onboard tank.

• Anyone tired of refilling tiny tanks in the cold and wanting an easy, durable external draw solution.

If you’re building a permanent, code‑compliant fuel system in a vehicle, you’ll likely want hard lines, quick‑disconnects, and shutoff valves. This kit is best as a practical, portable upgrade rather than a full engineered fuel system.

Value

Considering the quality of the metal cap and standpipe, the included clamps and filter, and the time saved not babysitting small tanks, the kit represents good value. You could piece together something similar, but you’d spend more time sourcing parts and still end up with a plastic cap unless you hunt.

Recommendation

I recommend this standpipe kit for anyone running a portable diesel heater who wants longer, hassle‑free runtime from a 5‑gallon can. The metal cap and standpipe are durable, the included filter and clamps make for a tidy, leak‑free install, and performance has been consistent in cold weather. Be prepared to handle two things yourself: ensuring your can can vent properly, and planning your line length and routing. A brief instruction sheet and a longer hose option would make it friendlier out of the box, but neither is a deal‑breaker. If you value fewer refills and a cleaner setup, this kit is an easy upgrade that does exactly what it’s supposed to do.