Skil 5/16 x 5 in Carbide Tipped Masonry Drill Bit

Why I reached for this bit

I keep a small roster of go‑to masonry bits for jobs that pop up around the shop—setting Tapcon anchors, hanging hose reels, breaking through brick for cable runs. For a recent punch list, I put Skil’s 5/16‑inch masonry bit to work across brick, cinder block, old garage slab, and a couple of ceramic tiles. It’s a simple, budget‑minded bit with the right headline specs: a dual‑cutting carbide tip, split point for easier starts, dual flutes, and a 1/4‑inch hex shank that snaps right into a quick‑change chuck. Here’s how it actually behaved when pushed.

Build and features

• Tip: Dual‑cutting carbide with a split point. The split point is unusual for masonry; the benefit is fewer skating issues at the start, especially on rough surfaces.
• Flutes: Dual flutes that are moderately deep for a bit this size. They evacuate dust well in hammer mode.
• Shank: 1/4‑inch hex. It seats securely in a three‑jaw chuck and drops right into an impact driver or quick‑change adapter. The hex profile eliminates chuck slip.
• Body: Heat‑treated shank and shaft. The bit is 5 inches overall, with an effective flute length a touch under 3 inches.
• Labeling: Bold markings on the shank. Sounds trivial, but identifying a 5/16 quickly in a crowded pouch is genuinely helpful.
• Rating: Max 1,500 RPM. That’s realistic for concrete with a hammer drill; run it slower on tile.

Nothing fancy here—no SDS‑Plus shank, no exotic geometry—but everything you need for general‑purpose masonry drilling is present.

Setup and compatibility

I ran the Skil bit primarily in a corded hammer drill with a three‑jaw chuck and two speed ranges. I also tested it in a 20V impact driver for curiosity’s sake. An impact driver can spin the bit, but its hammering action is torsional, not axial, which is what masonry drilling really requires. In other words: you can use an impact driver for softer materials in a pinch, but a hammer drill is the right tool for concrete, brick, and block.

Staying under the 1,500 RPM spec, I favored the low‑gear setting on the hammer drill and moderate feed pressure. For tile, I switched off hammer mode entirely.

Real‑world performance

• Concrete (aged garage slab): With the hammer drill in low gear, the bit made steady progress on 1‑1/4 to 1‑1/2 inches of embedment. I found a rhythm of light pressure, brief pecking to clear dust, and a few short pauses to prevent heat buildup. Expect a single 5/16‑inch anchor hole to take around a minute in older, harder concrete with aggregate—longer if you push continuously without clearing dust. In one area of very hard, likely high‑psi patch, the bit started skating at the surface until I notched a small starter divot with a nail set.
• Brick: The bit performed well. Starts were clean, wandering was minimal, and holes were through in well under 30 seconds per 1‑1/2‑inch depth, even in mid‑density brick.
• Cinder block: Easy going in the webbing; go gentle to avoid blow‑out. The flutes cleared dust effectively, and the bit stayed comparatively cool.
• Ceramic tile (on backer, not porcelain): No hammer, low speed, light pressure, and a water mist. Starts were manageable with painter’s tape to guard against skating. Once the glaze was breached, progress was controlled and predictable.

Across all materials, debris evacuation is the hinge. The dual flutes move dust well in hammer mode, but you still need to periodically lift the bit to keep the hole from packing. If you don’t, heat rises fast and cutting slows.

Accuracy and starts

The split point helps reduce walk on rough or uneven faces—brick and block especially. On smooth concrete or tight finishes, I still prefer to tap a shallow center mark or use a small pilot divot with a hardened punch. For tile, painter’s tape and a slow start were enough to keep the tip planted. I didn’t see the bit “screw” itself in at the start (a common annoyance with some masonry tips), which makes placement more predictable.

Hole roundness and size were consistent. The bit bored a true 5/16‑inch path suitable for sleeve and concrete screw anchors without wallowing out the entrance.

Speed, heat, and dust

At or below 1,500 RPM with hammer mode, the bit is happiest. Press too hard, and you’ll feel it stop cutting as dust compacts in the hole. A quick pecking motion—advance, withdraw a half inch to clear, repeat—kept the flutes productive. I didn’t need water cooling for concrete or brick; pausing briefly was enough. For tile, a small water mist helped prevent glaze chipping and kept the carbide tip happier.

Dust extraction is worth the trouble if you’re drilling multiple holes. With a vac nozzle nearby, the bit stayed cooler and cut faster.

Durability and wear

This is a budget bit, and it behaves like one in the best and most honest sense. After a half‑day of mixed material drilling—roughly a dozen holes in concrete, several in brick, a few in block, and two in ceramic—the cutting edges showed minor micro‑chipping at the corners but no catastrophic damage. Cutting speed dropped slightly in old concrete as the session went on but remained usable. The heat‑treated body resisted any visible twisting or shank damage, and the hex flats stayed crisp.

If you’re planning to drill dozens of holes in hard, cured slab or anywhere you might encounter aggregate or rebar, I’d step up to a pro‑grade SDS‑Plus setup. For occasional use, the Skil bit holds its own.

The hex shank advantage (and limits)

The 1/4‑inch hex shank is convenient. It’s especially handy when alternating between predrilling with this bit and driving concrete screws—you can swap quickly between bit and driver. In a three‑jaw chuck, the hex also helps prevent slip under high torque.

The limitation is obvious but important: a hex‑shank masonry bit in an impact driver isn’t a substitute for a hammer drill in concrete. The bit will spin and nibble, but without axial impacts, progress is slow. In softer block or mortar joints, an impact driver can squeak by; in concrete, use hammer mode.

Value

Given its price tier and feature set, this bit represents solid value for homeowners and light‑duty users. The carbide tip, split point, and dual flutes are well executed, and the build quality is consistent. You’re not paying for premium brazing or specialized geometries, but you’re also not getting a disposable, one‑hole wonder.

Limitations and caveats

• Hard, old concrete can challenge it. Expect slower progress and more careful technique, especially at the surface where skating can occur.
• Not designed for rebar. If you hit steel, stop—switch to a metal bit after confirming you can safely proceed.
• Limited effective depth. At 5 inches overall, you get roughly 3 inches of practical drilling depth before the shank approaches the surface.
• Not a pro production bit. For dozens of anchors a day, upgrade to SDS‑Plus.

Tips for best results

• Concrete and brick: Low gear, hammer mode, under 1,500 RPM, moderate pressure. Peck to clear dust.
• Tile: No hammer. Low speed, painter’s tape, water mist, very light pressure.
• Marking: Use a center punch or a small carbide nail set to create a shallow divot on hard, smooth concrete.
• Dust control: Vacuum at the hole to speed cutting and reduce heat.
• Anchor fit: Blow out or vacuum the hole before setting anchors to ensure proper holding strength.

Bottom line and recommendation

The Skil 5/16‑inch masonry bit is a straightforward, budget‑friendly cutter that performs reliably across brick, block, and typical slab work when paired with a hammer drill and sensible technique. It starts cleaner than many masonry bits thanks to the split point, clears dust well in hammer mode, and the hex shank adds real convenience for quick tool swaps. It’s not the fastest in very hard, old concrete, and it’s not built for all‑day production, but it isn’t pretending to be.

I recommend this bit for DIYers and light‑duty users who need a dependable, inexpensive option for a handful of holes in masonry—especially if you value the quick‑change hex shank. If your work routinely involves dense, cured concrete or high hole counts, step up to a more aggressive SDS‑Plus system and keep this Skil as a backup for quick hits and mixed‑material tasks.