EWT Premium Asphalt Tarmac Parking lot Joint and Crack Sealer Repair Hot-Filler II Tape 2IN x 50 FT Long

A roll of rubberized asphalt doesn’t look like much until you see what it can do to a weather-checked driveway. I spent a weekend with EWT’s Hot-Filler II tape sealing a web of cracks on a mid-2000s blacktop driveway and a couple of control joints in a concrete pad. The short version: it’s a tidy, controllable way to “weld” cracks closed without firing up a melter-kettle or messing with pourable goo. It’s not perfect, and you’ll want the right heat source, but it’s effective and fast once you get the feel for it.

What it is and how it’s built

Hot-Filler II is a 2-inch-wide, 3 mm thick rubberized asphalt strip that comes in a long roll. Think of it as pre-formed hot crack filler. The extra thickness matters. A lot of crack tapes are thin and decorative; this one has enough body to actually bridge and fill modest gaps while creating a waterproof cap you can topcoat right away with sealer. It’s black, consistent in thickness, and cuts cleanly with scissors or a utility knife.

Because it’s rubberized asphalt, it wants heat to activate and bond. On a hot day you’ll notice it tack immediately. With a torch or high-output heat gun, it goes from dull to a slightly glossy, wavy look and then flows just enough to wet the edges of the crack and lock in.

Setup and application

Prep dictates results. Here’s the routine that worked for me:

• Clean the crack: I ran a stiff-bristle brush and leaf blower to remove grit and vegetation. For stubborn dust in concrete joints, a quick pass with a vacuum helps.
• Dry matters: Don’t lay over damp substrate. If the surface is cool or shaded, pre-warm it with the torch to drive off moisture and improve adhesion.
• Pre-fit the tape: Unroll and set the strip over the crack, pressing it in by hand. For hairline cracks, I cut the tape lengthwise into narrower strips; it’s easy to slice in half with scissors.
• Heat in motion: Using a propane torch, I kept the flame moving 2–4 inches above the tape. As it warms, the surface develops a slight ripple and dark sheen—this is the sweet spot. Linger just long enough for the material to soften and begin to flow, then move on.
• Feather the edges: After heating, I used a gloved hand and a small roller to press and feather the edges, creating a smoother transition. A quick dusting of fine sand while it’s warm knocks down any tackiness and blends the patch.

It continues to relax and level a bit after you pull the heat away, so resist the urge to overcook it. Overheating can cause the material to slump or pull apart, especially over wider gaps.

Performance on asphalt and concrete

On weathered asphalt, the tape bonded convincingly and created a flush, neat seam. The 3 mm thickness helps fill shallow voids and reduces the “dent” you sometimes get with thinner tapes after traffic compresses them. On broom-finished concrete, adhesion was good once the surface was thoroughly cleaned. The bond to dusty or chalky concrete is weaker, so prep is non-negotiable; if you’re working on old concrete joints, spend an extra minute getting to clean, sound edges.

For narrow cracks, slicing the tape into 1-inch strips prevented it from riding up on the surface. For larger cracks—say 3/8 inch and up—I had better results packing the void first (dry sand on asphalt, backer rod on concrete), then capping with the tape. Trying to span big voids without support leads to sagging as the material softens.

I did a quick sealcoat over a portion of the tape the same afternoon, and it took the topcoat well without smearing. That’s a real advantage over pourable fillers that can require longer cure times before sealing.

Heat source matters

You can technically use a heat gun, but a standard propane torch is the right tool. My higher-output torch, fed by a 14–16 oz propane cylinder, made the job smooth and predictable. A weak flame struggles to get the strip beyond sticky into the flowing stage, especially in cooler weather or on cooler concrete. If you’re working below 60°F, preheat the substrate and plan on slower progress. On a sunny, warm day, the material becomes much more cooperative.

A few technique tips:
- Keep the flame moving; don’t stare at one spot.
- Look for the slight wavy/glossy look—that’s your cue to move along.
- Let it finish leveling on its own after you remove heat.

Durability and weathering

After a few weeks of heavy rain and daily car traffic, the seams are holding up well with no edge lift or tracking. The tape hardens as it cools, but it’s smart to give vehicle traffic a full day if you’ve used a lot of heat or if ambient temps are low. On a hot day, it feels set within an hour for foot traffic. The waterproofing is real; puddles sat on top without wicking in, and previously damp cracks stayed dry beneath.

Long-term longevity will depend on prep and how flush you get the edges. The cleaner the surface and the better the feather, the less chance of plow catch or edge scuffing. Because it’s a rubberized asphalt, it moves a bit with temperature swings rather than becoming brittle.

Where it shines

• Quick, clean crack “welds” without a kettle or messy pourable fillers
• Immediate compatibility with sealcoating
• Controlled application—easy to follow crooked cracks and joints
• Real body (3 mm) for small-to-moderate cracks and joint caps
• Works on both rough asphalt and smoother concrete when properly prepped

Where it struggles

• Needs a decent torch; low-output heat guns or weak flames frustrate the process
• Not the right solution for wide voids or alligator-cracked areas without prior patching
• On cold substrates, adhesion suffers unless you pre-warm the surface
• The 2-inch width can be overkill on hairline cracks unless you cut it down

Safety notes

Wear gloves, eye protection, and be mindful of open flame near dry vegetation or sealant containers. If you dust with sand, do it while the tape is still warm and tacky so it embeds. Keep the torch moving and give yourself room to work.

Alternatives and use cases

If you’re sealing dozens of long, uniform cracks, a pourable hot-applied crack fill from a melter may still be faster. Cold-pour emulsions are cleaner but don’t cure as tough and usually require longer waits before sealing. For DIYers or pros doing targeted repairs who want a tidy finish with minimal setup, Hot-Filler II hits a sweet spot. It’s also useful for capping the edge where a driveway meets the street—one of the most common failure points—because you can run a straight, reinforced seam that sheds water.

Value

Factor in that you don’t need a dedicated melter, and the cost per repair is reasonable. One 50-foot roll goes farther than you think when cut to fit, and the controlled placement means less waste than pourables that puddle or run. You will want to own or borrow a proper torch; that’s the main accessory cost.

Practical tips for best results

• Clean aggressively; a stiff brush and blower/vac make a difference.
• Apply on a sunny, warm day when possible; preheat in cool weather.
• Pre-press the tape into place, then heat until it just starts to flow.
• Feather edges with a roller or gloved hand; dust with sand to de-gloss.
• For hairline cracks, cut the strip lengthwise to 1 inch or even narrower.
• Backfill wider voids before capping to avoid slump and separation.

Recommendation

I recommend the Hot-Filler II tape for anyone looking to make durable, clean-looking crack and joint repairs on asphalt or concrete without the hassle of hot kettles or the mess of pourable compounds. It’s thick enough to be structural over small to moderate cracks, bonds well with proper heat, and plays nicely with immediate sealcoating. The caveat is heat: pair it with a decent propane torch and take the time to prep and pre-warm, and you’ll get professional results. If you’re trying to rehabilitate deeply cracked pavement or working in consistently cold conditions without a proper heat source, this isn’t the tool for that job. For targeted repairs and preventative maintenance, though, it’s an efficient, effective solution that earns its spot in the shed.