GoldStar Asphalt Products GoldStar Asphalt Cold Pour Crack Filler – 5 Gallon | Ready-to-Use Asphalt Crack Sealer for Driveways, Parking Lots & Roads | Heavy-Duty Pavement Repair Sealant

What it is and who it’s for

The GoldStar crack filler is a ready-to-use, cold-pour asphalt sealant packaged in a 5-gallon bucket. It’s designed for sealing shallow cracks in asphalt—think the common 1/4" to 1/2" fissures that spider across driveways, small parking lots, and residential roads. It’s not a structural repair compound and it’s not hot-pour rubber; it’s a protective sealant intended to keep water out of the subgrade and slow down further deterioration. If you want to extend the life of your pavement without firing up a melter or calling a crew, this is exactly the sort of product you’d reach for.

Setup and mixing

Out of the bucket, it needs real mixing—not a quick stir with a stick. When I opened mine, the liquid had separated a bit from the solids, which is typical for emulsions that sit. I used a 1/2" drill with a robust paddle mixer and ran it until the material turned into a uniform, heavy-bodied liquid. That’s the point where it goes from “too thin to be useful” to “just thick enough to stay put in the crack.”

A few setup tips that made a difference for me:
- Use a paddle mixer on a drill; hand-stirring wasn’t enough to fully reincorporate it.
- Mix again halfway through the bucket if you’re working for more than 20–30 minutes—it can settle.
- Keep the lid on between pours to prevent skinning, especially on hot, breezy days.

For application tools, a V-shaped crack squeegee is worth its keep. You can pour directly from the bucket, but it’s heavy and imprecise; a pour pot or small pitcher gives better control.

Surface prep and application

As with any asphalt crack work, surface prep is 80% of the outcome. I blew out the cracks with a leaf blower and hit a few stubborn spots with a wire brush. Loose aggregate and dust will sabotage adhesion. If you can, wash with water a day before and let it dry completely.

The product pours like thick syrup once mixed well. I worked in short sections, filled each crack slightly proud, and then pulled a V-squeegee along the line to level and feather it. It seats well into properly cleaned cracks and doesn’t track much as long as you don’t overwork it. If you’re filling a connected network of cracks, approach it in a sequence so you’re not stepping in fresh material.

For deeper voids (anything more than about 1/2" deep), I had better luck filling in two thin passes rather than one deep pour. On a couple of wider sections, I dropped in dry sand as a packer and topped it with a thin layer of filler. That mitigated sink-back and sped up drying.

Drying and curing

Cure time depends heavily on temperature, sun exposure, and crack size. In warm, sunny weather (mid-70s to mid-80s), thin fills skinned over in a few hours and were walkable by late afternoon. Wider or deeper fills stayed soft much longer—sometimes into the next day.

I learned two timing rules that I’d follow every time:
- Aim for a stretch of warm, dry weather with daytime highs in the 70s or 80s and mild nights. Cool overnight temperatures slow the cure dramatically and can allow the crack to reopen slightly as the pavement contracts.
- Keep water off the surface for at least 24 hours. A surprise shower can mar the finish and extend curing, especially on thicker fills.

If your project includes larger cracks, expect longer cure times and plan around it—don’t schedule heavy traffic the next morning.

Performance and appearance

Once cured, the filler dries to a deep black that blends reasonably well with aged asphalt. It won’t disappear completely unless you sealcoat over it, but it neatly reduces the visual distraction of hairline and small cracks. More importantly, it forms a continuous seal that sheds water. On my driveway, it stood up to summer heat and a few heavy rainstorms without peeling or washing out. I did need to top off a couple of wider joints the next day where the material settled, which is typical for cold-pour products.

Under vehicle tires, it resisted scuffing after a full cure. If you’re impatient and start turning wheels on it before it’s ready, you’ll mar the surface; that’s on the installer, not the material. For best longevity, give it the time it needs to set up completely.

Where it fits—and where it doesn’t

This is a cold-pour sealant designed for shallow cracks. Use it to:
- Seal 1/4" to 1/2" cracks in driveways and small parking lots
- Tighten up small voids prior to a full sealcoat job
- Perform seasonal maintenance to keep water out of the subgrade

It is not the right choice for:
- Large working joints or cracks close to or over 1" wide
- Deep voids without a backer (sand or backer rod)
- Cool-weather applications where overnight lows dip into the 40s or low 50s
- Fast-return-to-service needs on bigger cracks—hot-pour rubber is faster in those cases

If you’re facing wide, moving cracks, a hot-pour rubberized filler or a professional repair is the better route. You can make this product work on bigger defects with backer material and multiple thin lifts, but that’s pushing it beyond its sweet spot and will extend cure times.

Practical tips for best results

• Mix extremely well before use. A drill-mounted paddle is essential; the material thickens noticeably after proper mixing.
• Clean and dry the cracks thoroughly. Dust, vegetation, and moisture are the main reasons sealants fail.
• Work warm and dry. Target a 48-hour window with warm days and mild nights. Avoid rain in the first 24 hours.
• Use a V-shaped squeegee. It speeds the job, prevents overfilling, and leaves a cleaner line.
• Build in thin layers on deeper cracks. Use sand or backer rod to reduce the effective depth, then apply two thinner passes rather than one thick one.
• Expect some settling. Revisit the next day to top off any low spots before they harden completely.
• Plan traffic thoughtfully. Foot traffic is usually fine after it skins; vehicle traffic should wait until it’s firm through, which may be next day or longer for thicker fills.

Value and usability

A 5-gallon bucket is a lot of product, and for ongoing maintenance it’s more cost-effective than buying quart or gallon jugs. The tradeoff is handling: the bucket is heavy, and pouring directly from it is unwieldy. Decanting into a pour pot or smaller container improves control and reduces waste. Storage is straightforward—seal tightly and store in a temperate place. As with most emulsions, it’s happiest when it doesn’t freeze or bake.

Compared to bargain-bin cold pours, this one, when mixed properly, has a thicker, more tenacious body that stays in the crack instead of flowing out. It’s still a cold-pour, so don’t expect the rubbery elasticity and rapid set of hot materials, but for maintenance sealing it strikes a practical balance between ease and performance.

The bottom line

GoldStar’s crack filler is a solid choice for routine maintenance of small asphalt cracks, provided you respect its limitations and the weather. It shines on 1/4" to 1/2" cracks, where it pours cleanly, spreads easily with a V-squeegee, and cures to a durable, water-shedding seal. It demands thorough mixing and rewards you with a thicker, more cooperative consistency. It’s less happy on wide or deep cracks, where multiple thin lifts, backer material, and extended cure times become necessary. And it’s sensitive to cool nights and rain during the first day, so timing matters.

Recommendation: I recommend the GoldStar crack filler for homeowners, facility managers, and maintenance crews who need a ready-to-use solution for small to moderate cracks and can schedule the work during a warm, dry window. It’s easy to apply, blends well, and does the most important job—keeping water out—without specialized equipment. If your project involves large, working cracks or you need fast turnaround regardless of weather, look to a hot-pour system or professional repair instead.