Bosch Impact MultiConstruction Drill Bit Set

Why I reached for this set

I keep a few “grab-and-go” bit kits in the truck for jobs where I don’t know exactly what I’m walking into. This Bosch set earned a spot because it promises something most kits don’t: one set of bits I can run in an impact driver, a drill/driver, or even a hammer drill, across wood, metal, and assorted composites. On paper, that’s a lot of ground to cover. After putting it through a mix of installs and repairs—framing anchors, bracket installs on steel studs, cabinet work, and a few oddball materials—it mostly lives up to the “multi” in multi-construction, with some clear boundaries worth noting.

Build and design

Each bit uses a hex shank, which locks into impact drivers securely and also seats cleanly in a standard three-jaw chuck. That alone makes life easier when swapping between tools. The cutting end is a carbide head with sharp, ground edges, and the flutes are notably steep to keep chips moving. The sizes are the practical middle of the road:

• 5/32 x 4 x 6 in
• 3/16 x 4 x 6 in
• 1/4 x 4 x 6 in
• 5/16 x 4 x 6 in
• 3/8 x 4 x 6 in

All five share a 6-inch overall length with about 4 inches of working length. That reach is useful behind trim, through furring, and when you’re clearing an obstruction, but longer bits do amplify any runout or flex. Feed pressure and speed matter more here than with stubby bits.

The included plastic case keeps the bits from rattling loose, and it’s reasonably compact. I’ll admit it took me a minute to figure out the latch—once you do, it holds well—but the first encounter isn’t intuitive. Minor gripe, but worth mentioning.

Setup and “clean start” behavior

Bosch calls out “designed for clean starts,” and I noticed that in practice. In pine and MDF, the tips bite with very little skating, even without a punch mark. On painted metal and glossy laminates, I still recommend a center punch (or at least painter’s tape) if accuracy is critical, but these bits wander less than typical twist bits. The sharp carbide edges help a lot with that first bite.

Performance in wood and composites

In softwood framing and plywood, the set cuts fast and leaves surprisingly tidy holes on exit, especially up to 1/4 inch. The steeper flutes pull chips out efficiently, so you spend less time clearing the hole. In hardwoods like oak and maple, they still cut well, though I found backing out occasionally on deeper holes helps keep the heat down and the flutes from packing. For composite decking and MDF, surface chipping was minimal. If tear-out is a concern on veneered plywood, a quick countersink pass or tape on the exit side keeps edges crisp.

These are not augers or brad-points, so you won’t get glass-smooth walls, but for general construction holes and hardware installs, the results are clean and consistent.

Performance in metal

Mild steel studs, angle, and common brackets were no problem. I had the best results using a drill/driver in low gear with moderate pressure and a dab of cutting fluid. The carbide tips stay sharp longer than HSS in these scenarios, and the flutes keep small chips from clogging. In thicker plate, stepping up through sizes works better than trying to muscle a 3/8 bit from zero. You can run them in an impact driver, but you’ll get more chatter and heat; the slow-and-steady approach with a clutch drill delivers rounder holes and longer bit life.

On aluminum, they cut fast—keep speeds down to avoid grabbing at breakthrough. Stainless is doable for small holes with patience, but it’s not where these bits shine.

What about masonry and tile?

These are sold as multi-purpose bits and are compatible with hammer drills, but they’re not a replacement for a dedicated masonry set. In brick and lightweight block, low hammer with steady feed gets you “make-a-hole” results for anchors, though it’s slower than a true SDS-plus masonry bit. On ceramic tile, technique matters a lot: no hammer, low RPM, light pressure, and coolant. Even with that, I treated tile as a “use if you have to, not if you plan to” scenario. For a backsplash run or porcelain tile, I’d switch to a purpose-made tile bit.

If your workload is heavy on concrete or tile, consider this set a backup rather than your main solution.

Durability

Over several weeks of mixed use, edge wear was very reasonable. After about a dozen holes in 16-gauge steel spread across multiple sizes, the 3/16 and 1/4 still started cleanly and didn’t show obvious chipping. In framing lumber and composite trim, I saw no meaningful dulling. Where wear shows up fastest is with heat: long pushes in metal at high speed or any accidental hammering on hard tile. Keep the RPM appropriate to the material, use cutting fluid in metal, and back the bit out to clear chips; do that, and they hold up.

Because of the 6-inch length, avoid side-loading in tight spaces—bending a long bit accelerates micro-chipping of the carbide edge.

Ergonomics and use across tools

• Impact driver: The hex shank is rock-solid, and for wood/composite, it’s a time saver. In metal, you can use impact in a pinch, but a drill/driver yields cleaner holes.
• Drill/driver: Ideal for most materials; low gear, controlled feed, and better hole quality in metal.
• Hammer drill: Useful for light masonry. Switch hammer off for tile or dense ceramics.

The bits fit well in tools from multiple brands I tried, with no slop in the hex interface.

Coverage and limitations

The 5-piece spread from 5/32 to 3/8 hits common anchor and hardware sizes, but there’s no 1/8 bit, and nothing above 3/8. If you frequently pilot small fasteners or run larger through-bolts, you’ll still need supplemental bits. Also note the 4-inch working length: great for reach, but overkill on thin material where a shorter bit would be stiffer and faster.

Value

It’s not the cheapest five-pack, and you can build a cheaper kit by mixing dedicated wood, metal, and masonry bits. The value here is in consolidation: one set you can toss into an impact driver or a hammer drill and get through most day-to-day tasks without hunting for the “right” bit. If your work crosses materials in the same day—maintenance, facility installs, punch-list tasks—the convenience pays off. If your work is specialized (e.g., tile setting or heavy structural steel), dedicated bits are still the better spend.

Tips for best results

• Use a center punch on metal and glossy surfaces.
• Start slow; let the carbide cut and the flutes clear chips.
• In metal, use cutting fluid and step up sizes for holes above 1/4 inch.
• For tile, turn off hammer, run low RPM, and use water as coolant—better yet, switch to a tile-specific bit if you have one.
• Periodically clear resin or gunk from the flutes to maintain chip evacuation.

The bottom line

The Bosch set delivers on the promise of multi-material flexibility with impact-rated convenience. In wood, composites, and mild steel, performance is confident and predictable, and the sharp carbide tips do a good job of starting clean and staying true. The long reach is genuinely useful on site, and the hex shank makes it a natural partner for an impact driver. The trade-offs are equally clear: it’s not a tile specialist, it won’t replace a true masonry kit for heavy concrete work, and the size range may leave you supplementing at the small and large ends. The case could be more intuitive, but it does its job once you learn the latch.

Recommendation: I recommend this set for anyone who needs a compact, go-anywhere kit that handles most everyday holes across wood, metal, and light masonry—especially if you prefer running bits in an impact driver. It’s a strong choice for maintenance techs, remodelers, and DIYers who cross materials frequently. If your work focuses on tile, dense concrete, or thick structural steel, pair it with dedicated bits for those tasks or look elsewhere for a specialty solution.