Amtrol Water Worker 25005 32Gal Vertical Well Tank, 32-Gallon, Blue

Why I chose a 32-gallon tank for my well system

I put the Water Worker 32-gallon tank into service to replace an aging steel captive-air tank that was short-cycling my pump and causing noticeable pressure fluctuations in the house. I run a modest residential system with a 1 HP submersible pump and a 30/50 pressure switch, so I wanted a precharged, bladder-style tank that would smooth out pressure, keep the pump off-and-on behavior sane, and be simple to install without special tools. On paper, this one checked those boxes.

Build and design

This is a vertical, steel pressure tank with a precharged air bladder and a blue painted exterior. The layout is the typical well-tank format: a welded bottom connection with standard NPT threads (commonly 1 inch—verify your fittings), Schrader valve on top for air charge, and a clean, compact footprint that tucks nicely beside a tank tee assembly. The finish is decent and wiped down easily after install; the paint isn’t boutique-level, but it’s uniform and thick enough to shrug off incidental scuffs.

Inside, the precharged bladder separates air from water, which is the whole point: it maintains the cushion that prevents short cycling and provides steadier pressure at the taps. This style also means there’s no air-siphoning gadgetry or regular air-charging ritual required to keep things stable—just periodic checks.

One quirk worth noting: the bottom port shipped with a protective plug, and mine had a bit of paint overspray on the threads. It wasn’t a show-stopper, but I did spend a few minutes cleaning the threads and chasing them with a brass brush before fitting the tank tee. If you’re installing it yourself, plan on a little thread prep.

Installation and setup

If you’ve plumbed a tank tee before, you’ll be right at home. I paired the tank with a standard tee assembly that includes the pressure switch, gauge, pressure relief valve, and hose bib. Here are the steps that mattered:

• Precharge: The tank arrived precharged. For my 30/50 switch, I bled the air to 28 psi (always set the tank to 2 psi below your switch cut-in). If you run 40/60, set it to 38 psi.
• Connection: I used a thread sealant paste (not tape) on all NPT joints to avoid cold-flow leaks. Support the piping so the tank port isn’t bearing the full weight of the assembly.
• Orientation and base: The tank sits on a flat concrete slab with a rubber isolation pad. If your install is in a damp pit or on bare soil, plan on elevating it; these are steel tanks and moisture will win eventually.
• Commissioning: After plumbing, I filled the system, purged air at several fixtures, and verified the cut-in/cut-out with the gauge.

Time from unboxing to powered-up was under two hours at an easy pace, including the tank tee assembly and swapping a tired pressure switch. No special tools beyond wrenches and a gauge for the Schrader valve.

Performance in daily use

The immediate change was in pump behavior. Before the swap, the pump was cycling constantly during low-flow tasks like handwashing. After, the pump stays off longer and runs fewer total cycles in a day. With a 30/50 switch, I measured about 10–11 gallons of drawdown before the pump kicks in—right in line with what you’d expect for a nominal 32-gallon bladder tank. That translates to:

• Smoother shower pressure with no surging
• Sprinklers running with fewer pump starts
• Quieter system behavior overall

The bladder held its precharge across the first several weeks, and the cut-in/cut-out remained consistent. I rechecked the air after draining the tank at the one-month mark and again after three months—no meaningful change. That’s what I want to see from a precharged unit.

Noise-wise, there’s not much to say. The tank itself is silent; any sound comes from the pump and water movement in the piping. Mounting the tee solidly and using flex connectors where appropriate helps.

Sizing advice

Sizing gets people into trouble with pressure tanks. As a rule of thumb, you want your pump to run for at least a minute or two per cycle to avoid heat and wear. If, for example, you have a 10 GPM pump and a 40/60 switch, you’ll want 8–20 gallons of usable drawdown to meet that goal. A 32-gallon tank like this yields roughly 8–11 gallons depending on your pressure settings—fine for many homes, borderline for high-demand setups, and light for irrigation. You can always add a second tank in parallel later if you need more drawdown.

Maintenance and longevity

For me, the routine is simple:
- Once a year, isolate and drain the tank fully, then confirm the air charge with an accurate gauge.
- Keep the area dry and ventilated; standing water around the base is a corrosion starter.
- Inspect the bottom elbow and fittings for sweating and corrosion.
- Confirm your pressure switch settings haven’t drifted.

Any steel tank in a damp well pit or a coastal environment will have a harder life. If you’re installing in a chronically damp space, consider elevating the tank, adding a drain, or relocating it indoors.

What I like

• Installation is straightforward with a standard tank tee. No proprietary parts.
• The precharged bladder does its job: fewer cycles, steadier pressure, low maintenance.
• Drawdown is appropriate for the size; it balanced my 1 HP pump nicely on a 30/50 switch.
• Compact footprint and clean exterior. It fits small mechanical spaces.

What could be better

• Thread preparation: my bottom port needed cleanup due to paint and a snug protective plug. Not a huge deal, but it adds a few minutes.
• Corrosion risk at the base and elbow area if installed in damp conditions. That’s typical of steel tanks, but it bears repeating: keep it dry and elevated if you can.
• Warranty logistics can be opaque with online purchases. Keep your documentation, and buy from a seller who clearly supports warranty claims. Many manufacturers route claims through the point of sale.

Alternatives and when to consider them

• Larger tanks (44–80 gallons) if you have a higher-GPM pump, frequent irrigation, or want longer pump run times per cycle.
• Pairing tanks in parallel if you’re expanding later; it’s an easy way to increase drawdown without replacing the original.
• Composite or stainless options if corrosion is your main worry and budget allows.

Practical tips from the install

• Set the precharge correctly: 2 psi below cut-in, measured with the tank completely empty.
• Use a quality gauge; cheap tire gauges can read off by 3–5 psi.
• Support the tank tee. Don’t use the tank port as a lever arm.
• Add unions so you can remove the tank in minutes rather than hours later.
• Keep a spare pressure switch and gauge on hand; they’re inexpensive and often the first failure point in an aging system.

Verdict

The Water Worker 32-gallon tank did exactly what I needed: it stabilized household water pressure and cut down on pump cycling without complicating my plumbing. Installation was painless, the precharged bladder has held steady, and the drawdown lines up with real-world use. It’s not a flashy piece of gear, and it doesn’t need to be—it’s a solid, everyday component that disappears into the background once it’s set up.

I recommend this tank for typical residential well systems running 30/50 or 40/60 settings where a roughly 10-gallon drawdown is appropriate. It’s an approachable DIY install, and performance is consistent. Just be mindful of moisture at the base, plan your sizing around your pump’s GPM and desired run time, and purchase from a seller that will support the warranty if you ever need it. For value and reliability in a standard steel precharged tank, this one is an easy choice.