Woogim 2PCS White Split Ceiling Medallion 9.84" PU Round Lighting Ceiling Medallion Ring Home Lighting Ceiling Medallions for Light Fixtures and Ceiling Fans

Why I reached for a split medallion

Removing a chandelier or ceiling fan just to add a bit of architectural polish is one of those projects that can balloon from “quick fix” to “weekend ordeal.” That’s exactly why I tried the Woogim split medallion. It promised a clean, finished look without taking fixtures down, and—crucially—without needing screws or anchors. After installing it around both a small pendant and a standard ceiling fan, I’ve got a good sense of where it shines and where to be cautious.

Build, materials, and first impressions

Each medallion arrives as two interlocking halves that form a 9.84-inch (250 mm) round ring with a 3.86-inch (98 mm) inner opening and about 1.1 inches (28 mm) of thickness. It’s molded from PU (polyurethane), which is a common material for lightweight trim. If you’re expecting plaster or wood, you won’t get that—this is a dense foam composite. In the hand, it feels light but not flimsy, with crisp edges and consistent mold detail. The thickness adds a nice shadow line and, more practically, hides uneven plaster around the junction box.

The white version I used has a smooth surface that took primer and paint easily. If you prefer a metallic look, know that metallic finishes can read louder on molded trim than they do on flat surfaces; I ended up toning down a test copper finish with a glaze to get a more subtle, aged effect.

Installation: truly fixture-on

Setup was refreshingly straightforward. Here’s the workflow that produced reliable results:

• Power off at the breaker, just in case I nudged the canopy.
• Dry-fit both halves to check alignment and how the inner hole relates to the canopy.
• Lightly scuff the back of the medallion and wipe the ceiling area with isopropyl alcohol to remove dust or grease (painted ceilings can be slick; clean substrate equals better adhesion).
• Apply a continuous bead of a foam-safe construction adhesive (I used a grab-style adhesive rated for polyurethane). Avoid solvent-based glues that can melt PU.
• Press the first half in place, align to center, and temporarily tape it with blue painter’s tape. Repeat with the second half, carefully closing the seam.
• Run a thin bead of paintable caulk along the seam and the perimeter, then tool it with a damp finger for an invisible joint.
• Let the adhesive cure fully before removing tape and painting touch-ups.

For both installs, I never had to remove the light or fan. I did slightly loosen one canopy to nudge it while centering the ring, then snugged it back down. On a smooth ceiling, adhesion was excellent. If you’re dealing with heavy texture or popcorn, you’ll want to either scrape a flat footprint first or use a few discreet brads to help the adhesive while it cures.

Fit and sizing: measure the canopy first

The inner diameter is the make-or-break spec here: 98 mm (3.86 inches). That hole needs to be fully covered by your fixture’s canopy. Most fan and chandelier canopies are 5–7 inches and will bridge the opening with room to spare. If your canopy is smaller than 3.86 inches, you’ll see a ring of open space around it—not ideal.

A quick checklist:

• If your canopy is 4.5–6 inches wide: perfect fit; the medallion’s inner edge stays hidden.
• If your canopy is ~4 inches: still fine, but leave yourself a bit of tolerance during install.
• If your canopy is under 3.86 inches: consider swapping to a larger canopy/escutcheon or use a companion trim ring.

At 9.84 inches overall, this medallion reads as modest in scale. It adds a finished look without dominating the ceiling. In very large rooms or on 10-foot-plus ceilings, you may want a bigger diameter if you’re after a bold, classical statement. For standard rooms and most fans, this hits a sweet spot.

Aesthetics: subtle profile, easy to customize

The profile is clean and restrained, which makes it versatile. The 1.1-inch height adds depth without looking bulky. On my ceiling fan, it softened the transition from canopy to ceiling and made the installation look more intentional, especially where the drywall around the box had seen better days.

PU loves paint. After priming, I used the same ceiling paint to blend the ring into the ceiling plane for a “built-in” effect around the pendant. For the fan, I painted the medallion the same satin white as the canopy; the slight sheen shift helped the trim read as a purposeful detail. If you’re after a metallic look, test your finish on the back first—metallic paints can accentuate mold lines. A quick scuff and a self-leveling primer help avoid that.

Strength and longevity

Despite the light weight, once adhered and caulked, the medallion feels solid. PU doesn’t warp with humidity and won’t crack like plaster if the house moves. I installed one in a bathroom with good ventilation—no swelling or separation after steamy showers. Cleaning has been easy with a damp microfiber cloth. Because there are no mechanical fasteners, the bond depends entirely on adhesive; choose a reputable construction adhesive and give it the full cure time.

One tip: run a thin caulk bead at the outer edge after painting. It seals out dust and hairline shadow lines at the ceiling interface, which keeps the trim looking crisp over time.

What could be better

• The split seam demands care. If you rush the caulk work or misalign the halves, you’ll see the joint. Dry-fitting and marking centerlines helps.
• The inner opening is fixed. If your canopy is small, you’ll need a plan to cover the hole.
• Finish out of the box is fine but not luxurious. For a truly high-end look, plan on priming and painting (or glazing) to suit your space.
• The 9.84-inch size is intentionally understated. If you need a grand statement for a large coffered room, this isn’t it.

What I liked

• Fuss-free install with the fixture in place—no electrical gymnastics.
• Lightweight PU that bonds well and resists moisture; good for bathrooms and kitchens.
• Thick profile that hides ceiling imperfections and uneven box cuts.
• Paintability and finish flexibility; easy to blend or contrast as needed.
• Secure once cured; no sagging or creep observed.

Practical tips for a pro-looking finish

• Use a fast-grab, foam-safe construction adhesive. Avoid solvent-based products.
• Mask a thin halo around the ring before caulking; pull tape while the caulk is still wet for razor-clean edges.
• If your ceiling isn’t perfectly flat, set the halves individually to follow the surface rather than forcing them flush to each other. The caulk will hide a small step.
• For very high ceilings, paint the medallion a hair glossier than the ceiling to keep it from disappearing visually.
• If you want a metallic look, prime with a bonding primer and use a toned metallic or a glaze to avoid a toy-like shine.

Who it’s for

• DIYers who want to upgrade a light or fan without taking fixtures down.
• Renters or homeowners looking for reversible, non-invasive trim (adhesive removal will take some paint with it, but you’re not cutting or screwing into structure).
• People dealing with ragged drywall around ceiling boxes who want a clean cover-up.
• Spaces with occasional humidity where plaster medallions would be overkill.

Recommendation

I recommend the Woogim split medallion for anyone who wants a quick, low-risk way to finish the area around a light fixture or fan. It installs with the fixture in place, the PU material is practical and moisture-resistant, and the 1.1-inch thickness neatly hides imperfect ceiling cuts. Just be mindful of the inner opening: your canopy should be at least 3.86 inches wide to cover it. Plan on a bit of caulk and paint work to make the seam disappear and the trim look integrated. If you’re after a massive, ornate ceiling centerpiece, look for a larger diameter. For most everyday rooms and standard canopies, this is a simple, effective upgrade that punches well above its effort.