DeWalt Oscillating Carbide Grout Removal Blade

Why I reached for this grout blade

Tile repair jobs reward patience and punish impatience. The trick is removing grout cleanly without chipping tile or creating clouds of abrasive dust that hang in the air and in your lungs. For that kind of work, I’ve been using the DeWalt grout blade, a carbide-grit oscillating accessory that promises universal fitment and aggressive removal. I ran it through a few common scenarios: regrouting a bathroom floor, trenching out cracked joints along a tub surround, and chasing mortar along the edges of a loose tile.

Setup and compatibility

The blade’s arbor is cut to match the common open-back, multi-pin style you’ll find on most oscillating tools. I ran it on a DeWalt and a Milwaukee tool without an adapter, and the fit was snug with no slop. Blade swaps were as quick as my tools’ clamping systems allowed—no screws to fumble. If you’re on a Starlock-only platform, double-check compatibility; “universal” in oscillating accessories still usually means “most,” not “all.”

Build and design

This is a carbide-grit blade, not a toothed cutter. The edge is coated with carbide particles that abrade grout and thinset rather than slicing it. That’s exactly what you want for minimizing tile damage—rasping is more controllable than cutting when you’re working millimeters from a glazed surface. The profile on my sample provided reasonable access to both floor joints and wall corners, and I could keep the contact patch small enough to avoid accidental contact with tile edges. The body is rigid enough to resist chatter, which helps with accuracy.

There’s no stated warranty here. That’s common with consumable oscillating accessories, but it matters when you’re weighing cost versus expected life.

Performance in grout

On sanded cementitious grout (the typical stuff between ceramic floor tiles), the DeWalt grout blade works quickly. Set your oscillating tool to a midrange speed, rest the edge in the joint, and let the grit do the work. I was able to open up 1/8-inch lines in a couple of passes, controlling depth by feel and periodically checking with a handheld vacuum to see where I was. The blade tracks straight if you maintain light, steady pressure. For joints tighter than 1/16 inch, you’ll want something narrower or a different approach.

Unsanded grout used around delicate or glossy tiles came up even faster. The key is to keep the blade square and moving; dwell too long in one spot and you’ll generate heat and start to polish the grit, which slows everything down.

Epoxy or urethane grout is a different beast. Like most carbide-grit oscillating blades, this one struggles with the hardness and gumminess of those formulations. You can make headway, but the effort-to-progress ratio climbs and the blade wears noticeably quicker. If you suspect epoxy grout, budget extra time and expect reduced tool life.

Mortar and thinset work

The packaging suggests mortar removal beneath tile, and that’s true within limits. Along the perimeter of a loose tile where thinset has oozed into the joint, the blade will chew it out cleanly and help you lift the tile without prying. In broad areas of cured thinset or setting bed removal, it’s the wrong tool—too slow and too hard on the accessory. For small trenching tasks, it’s helpful and precise.

Control, dust, and tile safety

Oscillating tools are easier to control than rotary tools for this job, and this blade plays to that strength. The grit doesn’t grab, so you get good feedback through your hands. I prefer a two-hand grip, pinky-end anchored lightly on the floor or wall, and a slow feed rate. I also mask the adjacent tile with painter’s tape. The tape won’t stop the blade, but it gives you an early warning if you wander.

Dust is unavoidable when you sand cement products. I taped a small nozzle from a shop vac to the head of the oscillating tool and kept it running as I worked. It made a big difference in visibility and cleanup. Eye and respiratory protection are non-negotiable.

Durability and heat management

Carbide-grit blades are consumables. How long they last depends on material hardness, speed, and pressure. Working steadily on a bathroom floor, I noticed the DeWalt’s cutting aggression fade after a few joints as the grit lost its sharp edges. That’s normal. What’s less ideal is heat transfer into the blade body during longer, continuous runs. High heat discolors the metal around the weld and can shorten life.

A few habits help:
- Use midrange oscillation speed instead of max.
- Keep the blade moving and take short breaks to cool.
- Don’t pry with the blade; it’s for abrasion, not levering.
- Let the grit skate against the joint; pressing harder doesn’t make it faster.

In my shop set, one blade exhibited loosening at the grit edge after a relatively short session in very hard grout. Another held up through a full small-room regrout without structural issues. That variability is typical of this category but worth noting given the lack of a warranty.

Precision and finish quality

The best compliment I can give a grout blade is that it respects tile edges. This one does, provided you respect it back. The rasp leaves a clean, square-bottomed channel that’s ready for vacuuming and regrout. I didn’t see micro-chipping at the tile shoulders unless I slipped. If you need to get right into inside corners, expect to do a little cleanup by hand with a scraper or grout saw because the oscillating blade’s shape can only get so far.

The spec sheet claims it “cuts tile,” and while the carbide grit will mark or notch softer ceramics, I treat that as a last resort. For real tile cutting, use a diamond wheel, snap cutter, or wet saw.

Value and use case

As a single accessory with universal fitment, the DeWalt grout blade earns points for convenience. You don’t need adapters, and it’s fast to change over in the middle of a job. Performance is solid on standard grout, and control is excellent—important when you’re working around expensive tile.

The downside is longevity under tougher conditions and the absence of a safety net if your blade fails early. If you’re a pro chasing grout daily, you may want to keep a couple of these in the kit or consider a higher-spec diamond-grit option for epoxy grout and heavy thinset. For homeowners and remodelers tackling a bathroom or kitchen refresh, a single blade should carry you through if you use it thoughtfully.

Tips for best results

• Score the joint lightly on the first pass to define the path, then deepen it.
• Vacuum frequently; seeing the bottom of the joint prevents overcutting.
• Mask tile edges with painter’s tape as a visual guard.
• Don’t force the tool—let the grit wear the grout away.
• If you smell burning or see heat discoloration, slow down and take a break.

Who it’s for

• Good fit: DIYers and remodelers removing standard cementitious grout around ceramic or porcelain tile; pros needing a controllable, universal-fit blade for punch-list grout repairs.
• Not ideal: Heavy commercial regrouts, epoxy/urethane grout removal, or bulk thinset removal where diamond accessories or specialty tools shine.

Recommendation

I recommend the DeWalt grout blade for light to moderate grout removal on standard cement-based joints, especially if you value precise control around tile edges and want a blade that snaps onto most oscillating tools without fuss. It cuts predictably, fits securely, and helps you work cleanly. I would not recommend it as a primary blade for epoxy grout or continuous, heavy-duty work where heat and wear become the deciding factors. In those cases, plan on spares or step up to a diamond-grit alternative.