DC Cargo Mall E Track Tie Down Rail Kit 4' (4 Pack) for Garages, Vans, Trailers, Motorcycle Tie Downs, ATV Mountings - Powder-Coat Black - Secure Cargo & Heavy Loads Up to 2,000 lbs

A versatile, heavy-duty E‑track kit that earns its keep

I installed this E‑track kit in an enclosed trailer I use for hauling motorcycles, furniture, and the occasional ATV. After several trips on washboard county roads and a couple of fully loaded highway runs, it’s clear this is the kind of hardware you install once and then stop thinking about—which is exactly what I want from tie‑down infrastructure.

What you get and how it’s built

The kit includes four 4‑foot steel rails with a black powder‑coat finish. Each rail has a long run of horizontal slots (30 per rail) that accept standard E‑track hardware: ratchet straps, O‑rings, rope ties, J‑hooks, and shelves/brackets. The rails are rated up to 2,000 lb per rail when properly installed. The steel is thick, the stampings are clean, and the finish arrived consistent and free of burrs on the edges.

The 4‑foot length is practical. It’s long enough to create usable runs on walls and floors, but short enough to maneuver in tight spaces and align with studs or crossmembers. Four rails give you 16 feet of coverage, which is plenty to outfit a small trailer with two wall runs or a paired floor run for wheel chocks and axle straps.

Installation experience

E‑track is only as strong as its fasteners and the material it’s mounted to, so I spent time on layout and anchoring. Here’s what worked well:

• Layout: I ran two rails along the lower wall, 14 inches above the floor, and two on the floor itself to catch front and rear tie‑downs for bikes and furniture. A chalk line kept everything straight.
• Fasteners: You’ll need to supply your own hardware. On the walls (3/4" plywood over steel studs), I used 1/4" lags into wood and 5/16" self‑drilling screws into steel where I could land on a stud. On the floor (plywood over steel frame), I through‑bolted at the ends and at every 12–16 inches with fender washers and nyloc nuts where practical.
• Spacing: On walls, I hit structure every other slot when possible; on floors I used a tighter pattern. The rails have plenty of slots, so finding bite points into structure wasn’t a challenge.
• Cutting and finishing: I needed a shorter section near the door. A fine‑tooth metal blade in a reciprocating saw worked well. A quick pass with a file to deburr and a dab of black touch‑up paint on the cut edge kept it neat and corrosion‑resistant.

The rails sit low enough that they don’t become toe‑stubs, and on the floor they’re essentially flush under cargo. I’ve driven a lightweight ATV over the floor rails without any deformation or loosening.

Fit, finish, and durability

The powder‑coat is even and looks sharp. It’s not a thin cosmetic coat—you can feel the build—but any black finish will show scuffs if you’re rolling dollies and tires across it. A quick wipe brings it back, and touch‑ups on cut ends took paint well. If you plan on year‑round exposure on an open trailer, I’d still do routine checks and keep an eye on edges and fastener heads; that’s true for any coated steel hardware.

Mechanically, the rails feel stout. The slots are consistent, and every E‑track accessory I tried seated cleanly without the sticking or wobble I’ve seen on cheaper stampings. After a few months, I haven’t had to re‑torque any hardware or chase rattles.

Performance under load

This kit’s value is in the flexibility. With 30 anchor points per rail, I can fine‑tune strap angles for very different loads:

• Two sport bikes secured via soft‑loops and E‑track rings up front, with wheel chocks and rear tie‑downs clipped into the floor rails—zero wander or fork pump over rough pavement.
• Tall dressers and cabinets cinched upright against wall rails using ratchet straps, with moving blankets hooked directly into the track to protect finishes.
• An ATV lashed down at four corners; the floor rails made it easy to maintain opposing strap angles and keep suspension compression balanced.

With proper anchors and straps matched to the load, the rails haven’t flexed or shown stress. The 2,000 lb per‑rail rating is generous for most hobby and small contractor setups, but it bears repeating: your fasteners, substrate, and strap working load limit are the real constraints. Treat the system as a chain with multiple links, and don’t let the rail rating lull you into underspec’d hardware elsewhere.

Compatibility and accessories

E‑track’s biggest advantage is the accessory ecosystem. I’ve used:

• E‑rings and ratchet straps for most cargo
• J‑hooks to hang extension cords, hoses, and helmets on the wall
• Shelf brackets to build a removable plywood shelf for totes

Everything clicked in and out cleanly. The rails’ slot geometry matches standard E‑track hardware, so you don’t need brand‑specific accessories.

E‑track vs alternatives

I also use L‑track (airline track) in a smaller van. L‑track is lower profile and looks sleeker, but E‑track wins on versatility and ease of hitting structure thanks to its wider footprint and dense slot pattern. Compared to fixed D‑rings, E‑track eliminates those “almost there” tie‑down moments where you’re forced into poor strap angles.

If you’re outfitting a multi‑purpose trailer or garage bay where loads change week to week, E‑track is the more forgiving system. If you need minimal protrusion and a more refined look, L‑track can be better on interior builds.

What I’d improve

No kit is perfect. A few considerations:

• Hardware not included: Not a deal‑breaker, but first‑timers should budget for fasteners, washers, and potentially backer plates. Choosing the right hardware for your substrate matters more than saving a few dollars on a one‑size‑fits‑all bag of screws.
• Seams: Four‑foot sections are pragmatic, but seams every 4 feet are inevitable. If you want uninterrupted runs, you’ll spend more time on alignment. The rails do butt cleanly with a tight joint.
• Finish pragmatics: The black powder‑coat looks great and has held up well, but open‑trailer users should touch up any cuts or deep scratches to keep corrosion at bay. That’s general best practice, not a flaw, but worth noting.

Practical tips for a better install

• Map structure first. A stud finder and a small pilot bit will save headaches. Prioritize hitting steel crossmembers and studs.
• Pre‑drill, de‑burr, and vacuum. Clean holes and flat mating surfaces improve clamping force and keep rails sitting flush.
• Use fender washers or backer plates where you can’t hit structure. Through‑bolting at the ends adds peace of mind.
• Protect cut edges. A quick shot of primer and paint on any cuts or drilled areas will extend the life of the finish.
• Strap thoughtfully. Use quality straps with known working load limits, keep strap angles shallow when possible, and cross‑strap tall items.

Who it’s for

• Trailer owners hauling bikes, ATVs, furniture, or landscaping equipment who need flexible tie‑down points
• Contractors and DIYers looking to organize tools, hoses, and storage bins on shop or van walls
• Anyone who wants the broadest accessory ecosystem at a reasonable price

If your use case is purely cosmetic or you need a very low‑profile track, L‑track might be a better fit. For most utility and hauling tasks, this E‑track kit offers more capability per foot.

Recommendation

I recommend this E‑track kit for anyone outfitting a trailer, van, or garage who prioritizes strength, flexibility, and value. The rails are robust, the finish is tidy, and the slot spacing plays well with common accessories. Installation is straightforward if you bring the right fasteners and put in the layout work. Once installed, the system fades into the background and simply does its job—keeping cargo put, trip after trip.