YYST 25MM (One Inch) SS 316 Bimini Top Strap Pad Eye Footman's Loop SS 316 Heavy Duty for Boat,Kayak Tie Downs,etc –Hardware Included -No Webbing

I reach for simple, proven hardware when I need a tie-down point that won’t loosen, squeak, or corrode after a season outdoors. These stainless footman loops fit that bill. Over the past year I’ve installed multiple sets—on a kayak rack under a deck, in the bed of a truck for portable step-ladder tie-downs, and on a small runabout to secure a bimini strap and a portable speaker bracket. They’ve been boring in the best way: strong, low-profile, and basically invisible once you start using them.

What you get

Each pack includes four stainless 316 footman loops and matching stainless screws. There’s no webbing included—these are anchor points meant to pair with your own 3/4-inch or 1-inch straps. The finish is uniform and clean, with nicely rounded edges so straps don’t fuzz or snag. The form factor is traditional: a shallow arch with two countersunk mounting holes. Color is uncoated stainless (silver).

Materials and build quality

The big story here is 316 stainless steel. On paper, 316 is the right choice for saltwater environments, and in practice, it matters. After extended exposure under a coastal deck and occasional spray at the marina, mine show no pitting or orange staining. I give them a quick fresh-water rinse now and then, but otherwise I haven’t babyed them. The loops feel dense and rigid, with no flex when cinched hard with 1-inch polyester webbing.

Edges are deburred and smooth. That sounds trivial, but it’s one of the reasons these outperform cheaper zinc or stamped steel loops: they don’t chew up straps. I run webbing through and back out regularly, and the weave still looks crisp.

The included screws are also stainless and appropriately sized for wood or composite where you can get good thread engagement. For high-load or safety-critical installs (truck beds, thin fiberglass, or hollow cores), I prefer through-bolting with washers and nylocs or using wellnuts/rivnuts. The loops themselves are strong; the limiting factor is almost always the substrate and fastener strategy.

Installation notes

A few practical tips from my installs:

• Pre-drill and test-fit. The countersinks accept standard flat-head screws cleanly; pre-drilling prevents cracking in hardwoods or gelcoat.
• Use sealant in marine or exterior installs. A dab of marine sealant under the feet and in the pilot holes locks out moisture.
• Consider backing hardware. On thin fiberglass or aluminum, add fender washers or backing plates to spread load.
• Watch for stack-up. If you’re mounting over a spacer, carpet, or drywall, the included screws may be too short. Size up appropriately.
• Anti-seize helps. If you’re mixing metals (e.g., stainless on aluminum), a bit of anti-seize reduces galling and dissimilar metal corrosion over time.

Layout is straightforward. The loops are compact enough to sit side-by-side for crossed straps, and low-profile enough that they don’t snag cargo or ankles. On a kayak rack, I offset pairs to create a quick cradle; in the truck bed, I used them as anchor points on the bed rails.

Day-to-day use

These loops excel at what they’re designed for: repeatedly tensioning and relaxing webbing without drama. With 1-inch straps, the fit is Goldilocks—snug enough to keep the strap aligned, but roomy enough to thread buckles quickly. Webbing slides smoothly under tension, then stays put. The low profile is handy in tight spaces (under gunnels, in cargo areas) and reduces the chance of catching clothing or skin.

I wouldn’t use them as primary recovery points or for any life-safety application, of course. But for real-world loads—securing coolers, seats, ladders, fuel tanks, and small watercraft—they’ve been solid. Over a year in the elements, the loops haven’t loosened or deformed, and the finish remains clean.

Corrosion resistance in practice

Not all “stainless” is equal. 316 has been the right choice here. The loops on my salt-exposed installations still look great, with no rust blooms or pitting. The screws have held up just as well. If you’re mounting in an area that collects salt spray, a periodic rinse goes a long way; in normal freshwater or inland use, you can mostly forget about them.

If you do see any light tea staining (common where contaminants collect), it wipes off with a stainless cleaner. I haven’t needed to do this yet, but I’ve done it on other 316 hardware.

Compatibility and sizing

• Best with 1-inch (25 mm) webbing. That’s the sweet spot and what I prefer for most tie-downs.
• Works with 3/4-inch (20 mm) straps if you need a slimmer tie-down.
• Not for wider webbing. If you’re running 1.5-inch or 2-inch straps, look elsewhere.
• Clearance under the arch is adequate for flat buckles and cam straps, but chunky ratchet assemblies are better anchored adjacent to the loop, not fed through it.

Because the inner surfaces are smooth, I’m comfortable using polyester or nylon webbing; both hold up well without excessive abrasion.

Where they make sense

• Boats: Bimini tops, covers, battery boxes, coolers, removable seats, cable routing.
• Kayaks/canoes: Deck rigging, paddle park points, under-deck storage straps, cart securement.
• Vehicles: Truck bed accessory tie-downs, ladder or toolbox straps, camper/RV interior tie points.
• Home/shop: Garage ceiling storage with straps, ladder hangers, organizing bulky items where webbing beats rope.

They’re also tidy for custom mounts—think a small strap loop to secure a portable speaker or fire extinguisher bracket—because they don’t scream “industrial hardware.”

Limitations and small gripes

• No load rating provided. That’s typical for this style of hardware, but it means the onus is on you to use common sense in how and where you mount them.
• Included screws are good, but not universal. They’re fine for wood and composites, less ideal for thin sheet metal where a rivnut or through-bolt is smarter.
• Not a swiveling solution. If you need articulation, a dedicated pad eye with a ring or a D-ring might suit you better.
• Size constraints. If you routinely use 1.5–2 inch ratchet straps, these aren’t the right anchors.

None of these are dealbreakers for their intended use; they’re just parameters to plan around.

Value

You can find cheaper loops in zinc or generic stainless, but the cost savings disappear the first time you replace corroded hardware or shred a strap on a sharp edge. Between the 316 alloy, good finish, and included stainless screws, these land in the “buy once, use for years” category for small tie-downs. Four per pack is practical—two pairs cover a lot of use cases.

Tips to get the most out of them

• Pair with quality webbing. Polyester straps handle UV and moisture better than nylon in many outdoor scenarios.
• Use cam buckles where possible. They’re fast, low-profile, and mate well with this style of anchor.
• Think in pairs. Installing loops in mirrored pairs makes threading and tensioning cleaner and distributes load.
• Seal holes in marine installs. It’s cheap insurance against core rot and leaks.

Who they’re for

If you spend time around boats, kayaks, trailers, or truck beds and prefer clean, permanent tie-down points over temporary hooks or plastic anchors, these loops are an easy win. They’re overkill for a one-off light-duty application indoors, but the moment salt, UV, and vibration enter the picture, 316 stainless earns its keep.

Recommendation

I recommend these stainless footman loops. They’ve proven strong, smooth on straps, and impressively corrosion-resistant across marine and outdoor use. Installation is straightforward, the low-profile shape is easy to live with, and the included stainless hardware gets you started (upgrade to through-bolts where appropriate). They’re not a solution for wide ratchet straps or rated lifting, but for 3/4- to 1-inch webbing tie-downs on boats, kayaks, campers, and trucks, they’re a reliable, tidy anchor you can install once and stop thinking about.