GORILLA Waterproof Caulk & Seal Silicone Sealant, 10oz Cartridge (Pack of 2) - White Caulking Sealant for Kitchen, Window, Bath, Marine, Door and More

A reliable, no-drama silicone that just gets the job done

I picked up the Gorilla silicone for a weekend refresh: re-caulking a shower enclosure, sealing a kitchen sink rim, and addressing a drafty window. I wanted a bright white, waterproof bead that could handle movement and water without shrinking, cracking, or inviting mildew back a month later. In short, I needed true silicone performance rather than a paintable compromise. This product delivered the kind of results I expect from a 100% silicone—clean finish, strong adhesion, and dependable waterproofing—with a few practical quirks to keep in mind.

What you’re getting

This is a two-pack of 10 oz cartridges in white, standard size for most caulking guns. It cures as a pure silicone (acetoxy cure), which means it’s fully waterproof when cured, stays flexible, and resists mold and mildew. It’s not paintable, which is normal for pure silicone. If you need to paint the joint, this is not your product; choose a siliconized acrylic or a paintable hybrid. If you want the best long-term moisture performance, silicone is the right lane.

Setup and handling

The cartridges are typical pro-style tubes: cut the nozzle to your bead size, pierce the inner seal, and you’re ready. The nozzle threads off for cleaning and storage, which I appreciate. The material has a smooth, consistent body—thick enough to hold a vertical bead without sagging, but not so stiff that it fights the gun. Flow control was predictable with a standard dripless gun.

As with all acetoxy silicones, there’s a vinegar-like smell on application. Good ventilation takes care of it, and it dissipates as the material skins and cures.

Application: smooth, controllable, and forgiving

I ran beads along a fiberglass shower base to tile transition, around a stainless kitchen sink set into laminate, and along an aluminum window frame to painted wood trim. The bead laid down cleanly, and tooling was easy. I got the best results by:

• Masking both sides of the joint with painter’s tape
• Running a modest bead (don’t overfill)
• Spritzing with a mild soap-and-water solution, then tooling once with a flexible caulk tool or a gloved finger
• Pulling tape immediately and leaving it alone

The silicone skinned at a reasonable pace—enough time to tool a few feet at a time without racing, yet not so slow that dust became an issue. The bead stayed where I put it, even on vertical corners and overhead. This is a well-balanced viscosity for general use.

Adhesion and compatibility

Adhesion was excellent on non-porous materials: tile, fiberglass, stainless, glass, and anodized aluminum all took the silicone without drama. It also grabbed well on painted wood, though remember you won’t be painting over it later. On porous stone and marble, the cartridge claims compatibility, and that’s encouraging; as a rule, I still test a small, inconspicuous area because some silicones can cause edge darkening on natural stone. On my laminate countertop, no staining or haloing occurred.

If you’re sealing a larger gap (over 1/4 inch), use a foam backer rod to set the depth and get a proper hourglass joint. Silicone performs best when it adheres to two sides, not three, so the backer rod matters for durability.

Ready for water quickly

One standout is the quick readiness for water exposure. The manufacturer claims you can expose it to water in as little as 30 minutes. For my shower corner, I gave it about 60 minutes before a light use test and saw no issues—no whitening, no washout, no compromise to the surface skin. Full cure takes longer (as with any silicone, cure time depends on humidity and bead thickness), but for households that can’t have a bathroom offline for a day, the early water-ready window is a practical advantage. I still recommend letting it cure overnight before heavy use, but it’s reassuring if a splash happens earlier.

Finish quality

The cured bead is a crisp, bright white with a slight sheen—clean-looking without being glossy. The line I left after tooling remained sharp, and I didn’t notice post-cure shrinkage pulling away from corners or fixtures. Seams stayed elastic, absorbing minor movement at the tub deck and sink rim. I’ve had silicones in the past that developed hairline splits where the tub flexes; this one hasn’t.

Because it’s silicone, cleanup is a two-stage story:
- Uncured: Wipe smears quickly; mineral spirits on a rag helps with residue.
- Cured: You’re scraping. A plastic razor or dedicated caulk remover is your friend.

It’s truly messy if you spread it around with dry fingers, so commit to the mask–tool–pull tape routine and keep a trash rag on hand.

Durability and mildew resistance

After several weeks of daily shower use and consistent sink splash, the bead still looks fresh—no edge lifting, no cracking, and, notably, no mildew spotting. That’s where pure silicone earns its keep. It’s flexible enough to bridge micro-movement and chemically resilient enough to resist moisture and cleaners. The claim that it won’t yellow has held up so far indoors. Outdoors on the window, the bead hasn’t chalked or discolored in sun exposure, and it remains tight to both substrates.

Where it shines—and where it doesn’t

Strengths:
- True waterproof performance once cured
- Excellent adhesion on non-porous substrates
- Smooth, sag-resistant application
- Early water exposure tolerance
- Mold and mildew resistance
- Bright, consistent white that finishes neatly

Trade-offs:
- Not paintable (normal for silicone)
- Vinegar odor during application
- Cured material is hard to remove if you make a mistake
- Like most premium silicones, you’ll pay a bit more than basic acrylics

If you’re sealing a backsplash that needs to be color-matched and painted, this isn’t the right material. If you’re sealing a shower, tub, sink, window, door frame, or exterior trim where flexibility and waterproofing are paramount, it’s exactly the right choice.

Practical tips for best results

• Prep thoroughly: Remove all old caulk and soap scum, wipe with isopropyl alcohol, and let surfaces dry completely.
• Control the bead: Start with a small nozzle opening; you can always cut larger.
• Use backer rod for gaps over 1/4 inch and to avoid three-sided adhesion.
• Tool once: Lightly mist with soapy water and make a single, smooth pass.
• Ventilate during application and early cure.
• Store smart: Cap the nozzle tightly. If you anticipate long gaps between uses, bag the cartridge in a zip-top bag to slow cure in the tip.

Value

As a two-pack, this makes sense for multi-room projects or a homeowner tackling seasonal maintenance. Cost-wise, it sits in the “premium silicone” tier, but the performance justifies it—particularly the combination of smooth application, early water tolerance, and durable finish. Cheaper acrylic or siliconized products can look fine on day one and disappoint after a few wet/dry cycles. This one has held its line.

Recommendation

I recommend this Gorilla silicone for any job where waterproofing and long-term flexibility are the priority: showers and tubs, kitchen sinks, window and door perimeters, and exterior trim. It applies cleanly, cures reliably, resists mildew, and stays put through the kinds of movement that cause cheaper caulks to fail. The main caveats are inherent to the category: it’s not paintable and it’s stubborn to remove once cured. If those are acceptable trade-offs for your project, this is a dependable, professional-grade sealant that delivers exactly what you want from a white 100% silicone.