DeWalt 9 in 6 TPI demolition reciprocating saw blade (5-pack)

A demolition blade that favors control over flash

A reciprocating saw blade lives or dies by how straight it cuts when the work gets ugly. I put DeWalt’s 9-inch demolition blades through a handful of framing tear-outs, fence repairs, and a few “make-do” yard chores to see what they’re made of. The short version: these are fast, surprisingly controllable for a 6 TPI blade, and built to shrug off the prying and twisting that demolition work demands. They’re not universal problem solvers, but they slot neatly into the sweet spot for wood and occasional fiber cement tasks.

Build and design

These are 9-inch, 6 TPI, bi-metal blades with a tall, thick profile. The bi-metal construction gives the cutting edge toughness without making the whole blade brittle, and the tall spine noticeably resists buckling when you lean into a cut. DeWalt uses precision-set teeth and an aggressive chip evacuation geometry. In practice, that translates to a wide kerf that clears debris with less clogging, especially in damp or pressure-treated lumber. They’re manufactured in the USA with global materials, and they come five to a pack.

There’s no case included. The packaging is a simple sleeve, which does its job until you open it, and then you’re on your own to keep the extras straight. A minor gripe, but one you’ll notice if you keep a mobile kit.

Setup and fit

I ran these in a 15-amp corded recip and a mid-torque cordless saw. The tang fit was secure with no play in either saw. At 9 inches, they give you the reach to cut double top plates, plunge through sheathing, and undercut protrusions without burying the shoe. The thicker gauge means they’re not floppy; if you’re used to thin flexible blades for flush trimming, expect a different feel.

Cutting speed and control in wood

With 6 TPI, these are meant to move material quickly. In old 2x lumber, decking, fence posts, and glued-up subfloor edges, they cut fast with less chatter than many other demolition blades in this class. The precision-set teeth help the blade start cleanly without skating, and once the cut is established, the tall spine keeps the line more honest than you’d expect from a coarse-tooth recip blade.

• Framing and plates: Crosscuts through 2x framing are quick and fairly straight. Ripping with the grain (for example, down the side of a stud) is manageable if you keep the shoe planted and let the teeth do the work.
• Sheathing and OSB: The tooth geometry clears chips well; I didn’t experience the bogging and dust packing that can slow a cut mid-sheet.
• Pressure-treated lumber: No burning and minimal clogging, even in damp wood. The big gullets seem to do their job.

Cut quality is understandably rough—this is a 6 TPI blade, after all—but the “raggedness” is controlled. If you need finish or even near-finish edges, reach for a finer blade. For demolition and rough carpentry, this hits the mark.

Demolition behavior

A demolition blade needs to tolerate prying, torquing, and the occasional ill-advised cut. The thicker, taller body helps keep the blade from corkscrewing when it binds. I could lever the blade slightly to free it without instantly kinking it, which is a common failure on thinner profiles.

About embedded metal: bi-metal blades survive incidental nail strikes better than carbon steel, but this specific blade isn’t rated for metal cutting. If you encounter the odd staple or small nail, it will keep going, but frequent contact with fasteners will dull the teeth quickly. If you’re tearing out nail-rich framing, a dedicated nail-embedded wood or carbide-tooth blade is a smarter pick.

Fiber cement use

These are listed as suitable for fiber cement, and they will do the job for occasional cuts—trimming a piece of siding to fit or slicing out a small section for a repair. Expect slower feed and noticeable edge wear relative to wood. For repeated fiber cement work, a carbide-grit or PCD recip blade remains my preference. Dust is significant, so keep PPE in mind.

Accuracy and straightness

The combination of tall spine and thicker gauge pays off when making long, straight cuts in framing. On a 9-inch blade, flex is the enemy of straightness, and these resist it better than many peers. Plunge cuts are predictable; the tip doesn’t deflect wildly on entry. The trade-off is flexibility: for flush trimming a door jamb or trimming shims tight to a floor, the stiffness can be a drawback, as the blade won’t conform as easily to irregular surfaces.

Vibration and user feel

Vibration is reasonably well controlled for a coarse tooth count. On the cordless saw, I could keep a steady feed without the blade grabbing and bouncing. The tooth set seems to ease the cut-in, so the initial bite is less dramatic than other 6 TPI options I’ve used. Keep your shoe firm against the work, and the blade rewards you with a stable, faster cut.

Heat and durability

In continuous cutting through softwood and PT lumber, the blades remained straight and didn’t blue or temper at the edge. Edge life is solid for bi-metal in wood; I could get through multiple framing cuts and some light prying before noticing slowdown. Again, persistent contact with metal will shorten that lifespan, but within the intended scope—demolition in wood—they hold up well. The five-pack format makes sense: you’ll rotate blades as they dull, and having backups on hand keeps the work moving.

What it’s not for

• Metal, tile, PVC, or drywall: This isn’t the blade for those materials, and trying to make it one will just end up costing you blades.
• Fine finish cuts: The 6 TPI profile is too coarse for cleaner finishes; grab a 10–14 TPI wood blade when cut quality matters.
• Long, flexible flush cuts: The stiff profile trades finesse for stability.

Practical tips

• Let the blade clear chips. Back off slightly if you feel resistance building; the gullets do their best work when they can throw waste.
• Use the shoe aggressively. Keeping the saw anchored reduces wandering and maximizes the straightness benefit of the tall spine.
• If you expect nails, have a nail-embedded or carbide blade on standby. Save these for clean wood to get the best life.

Value and packaging

Performance-wise, these land right where a contractor-grade demolition blade should. The absence of a case or durable sleeve is a small annoyance if you’re not already using a blade roll or organizer. There’s also no stated warranty, which is common for consumables, but worth noting. On balance, the cutting control and durability make the five-pack a practical buy for anyone doing repeated wood demo work.

The bottom line

DeWalt’s 9-inch demolition blades are purpose-built for fast, controlled cutting in wood and occasional fiber cement. The tall, stiff profile helps them track straighter than many 6 TPI competitors, the tooth geometry clears chips efficiently, and the bi-metal edge holds up well in the rough-and-tumble of demolition. They won’t replace a dedicated metal or fiber cement blade, and the stiffness can be a downside for flush-trim finesse, but they shine in the tasks they’re designed for.

Recommendation: I recommend these blades if you need a reliable, fast-cutting option for wood demolition and rough carpentry, especially when straightness and control matter on long 9-inch cuts. They’re durable for their class, easy to start and guide, and they reduce the wrestling match that coarse blades can create. If your work frequently encounters nails or leans heavily on fiber cement, pair them with a carbide solution. For everything else in wood, this five-pack earns a spot in the kit.