Max Strip Tape, Glue & Adhesive Remover 22oz | Fast-Acting | Removes All Kinds of Glues, Stickers & Sticky Residue | For Wood, Metal & Multiple Surfaces | No Harsh Odor Leaves Surface Clean

Sticky messes are inevitable in any shop or household, so I’m always testing ways to remove adhesives without stripping finishes or fumigating the room. The Max Strip adhesive remover is a sprayable gel positioned as a safer, low-odor alternative to the harsh solvent strippers many of us grew up with. After running it through a range of real jobs—from bumper sticker residue to carpet threshold glue—here’s how it stacked up.

What it is and how it’s supposed to work

This is a clear, 22-ounce spray gel designed to cling to surfaces rather than run off, which matters on vertical panels, trim, and narrow edges. It’s free of methylene chloride and NMP, two aggressive chemicals common in fast-acting strippers. The tradeoff with “safer” formulations is usually more dwell time and some mechanical assistance, and that’s true here. You’re meant to shake thoroughly, spray a wet coat, let it sit, check every 15 minutes, and then lift softened adhesive with a scraper or cloth. It’s intended for hard surfaces like wood and metal, is compatible with factory-baked coatings (vehicle paint), and not recommended for plastics or aftermarket painted/varnished finishes.

Setup and ergonomics

The bottle arrives with a simple trigger that dispenses a controlled stream-to-spray, and the gel consistency is dialed well enough to stay where you put it. The odor is impressively low—more “workshop” than “chemical bath”—which makes it viable for confined spaces. One nit: the peel-back label with directions on my bottle was stubborn to open, and the cap’s seal left a tacky ring I had to clean off. Minor gripes, but worth noting if you’re mid-task and hunting for instructions.

Shake it hard and often. The formulation separates, and performance drops off if you don’t homogenize it first. I make a habit of a 10–15 second shake before each reapplication.

Performance on real jobs

• Carpet threshold adhesive on a slab and tack strip zone: A previous owner had used a heavy glue strip where carpet met tile. After pulling the metal transition, I was left with a ridge of rubbery, darkened adhesive embedded in porous concrete and slight carpet backing residue. I masked adjacent finishes, laid a generous coat of the gel, and let it sit for about 25 minutes. A plastic scraper lifted the bulk in long, satisfying curls. A second application finished the film in the pores. The slab cleaned up without whitening or etching, and the low odor made the indoor work tolerable.

• Bumper sticker residue on automotive clear coat: I tested on a hatchback’s rear bumper where a decade-old sticker left that gray, stubborn gum. One moderate coat, five minutes of dwell, and a microfiber took it off clean. No haze or softening in the clear coat. If you’ve resorted to baking the area with a heat gun in the past, this is a gentler route and less likely to imprint the plastic bumper’s texture—though I’d still avoid overspray on uncoated plastic trim.

• Foam tape on anodized aluminum: Double-sided foam tape along an aluminum ladder rail let go after two cycles. The gel clung well on the vertical face, and the adhesive released without dulling the anodized finish. A nylon brush helped coax residue from the tiny surface striations.

• Tree sap on sealed wood: On a sealed cedar bench, a light spray and a five-minute dwell made sap wipeable, though a faint film needed a mild soap-and-water follow-up. No whitening, which I’ve seen with strong solvents.

• Wallpaper border adhesive on painted drywall: This is outside the recommended use, but I tried a small closet area to understand the risk. It did soften the paste, but it also marred the paint’s sheen and lifted color with aggressive rubbing. I would not use it on painted walls or aftermarket varnishes; the label’s warning is warranted.

• Exterior construction adhesive on masonry: A cured bead of outdoor polyurethane adhesive on brick barely budged after multiple applications. It got gummy at the edges but never released substantially. For cementitious or structural adhesives, plan on mechanical removal and accept that this product isn’t the magic solution.

• Label residue on glass and metal: As expected, it excels here. Bottle labels, price stickers, shipping tape residue—all came off quickly, often in one cycle, and the gel’s cling reduced the run-off mess you get with thin solvents.

Speed, effort, and cleanup

This isn’t an instant-spray-and-wipe product for heavy adhesives. It rewards patience and a methodical approach: wet coat, 10–25 minute dwell, scrape, reapply if needed. On light residues (labels, stickers), it can be nearly immediate. On thicker layers (carpet adhesives, foam tapes), expect one or two cycles. Cleanup is straightforward—wipe the softened goop into a disposable towel and follow with a mild soap-and-water rinse or a damp cloth. It leaves little chemical smell behind.

Surface safety and limitations

• Shines on: glass, metal, sealed wood, factory-baked coatings (like automotive paint), anodized aluminum.
• Use caution or avoid: plastics, painted walls, aftermarket varnishes and finishes, unsealed/porous wood where the gel could carry softened residues deeper.
• Not for: cementitious adhesives, fully cured construction adhesives on masonry, or substrates where chemical exposure is risky.

Always do a small test spot, especially on unknown finishes. The gel format reduces runs but increases contact time in one area, so it’s worth masking adjacent sensitive surfaces.

Tips for best results

• Shake aggressively before every use and reapplication. Separation is real.
• Lay a generous, even coat and let the chemistry work; rushing leads to smearing.
• Use plastic scrapers and nylon brushes to avoid scratching. Microfiber grabs the last film better than paper towels.
• On vertical surfaces, start from the bottom up so softened adhesive doesn’t drip across clean areas.
• Neutralize and wipe with a mild detergent after removal to eliminate any remaining slip.
• If you’re cleaning near plastics, mask them. Even a brief contact can haze certain plastics.

Safety and comfort

The low odor is the standout here. I wore nitrile gloves by habit, but I didn’t need a respirator, and I could work in a small laundry room without watering eyes. That said, basic ventilation is still wise. The absence of methylene chloride and NMP lowers the health risk profile, which I appreciate for indoor jobs.

Value and positioning

At 22 ounces, the bottle goes further than thin solvent alternatives because the gel doesn’t run or evaporate as quickly. It’s not the cheapest option if you’re only doing the occasional jar label, but for a renovation, shop cleanup, or automotive detailing session, the efficiency and surface safety justify the spend. Think of it as a mid-strength, surface-friendly remover: stronger and tidier than citrus-only sprays, gentler than the classic “hot” strippers.

What I’d change

• Packaging: The peel-to-read instructions were fussy, and the cap seal left a sticky ring on my bottle. Neither affects performance, but they’re avoidable annoyances.
• Label clarity: The “do not use on plastics” warning is there, but I’d love a quick-reference compatibility chart on the bottle for common materials (PVC trim, ABS, polycarbonate) to reduce guesswork.

The bottom line

The Max Strip adhesive remover hits a useful middle ground: it’s strong enough to handle real-world messes like carpet glue ridges, foam tape, tree sap, and automotive sticker residue, but it does so without gassing you out or endangering factory finishes. It won’t replace a grinder for cured construction adhesive, and it’s not for painted walls or plastics. If you lean into its process—shake well, be patient with dwell time, and scrape rather than smear—it delivers clean, repeatable results.

Recommendation: I recommend it for shops and homeowners who need a low-odor, surface-safe remover for labels, decals, tapes, and many adhesives on hard, finished surfaces. It’s especially good for automotive paint, metal, glass, sealed wood, and anodized aluminum. Skip it if your primary needs are plastics or heavy construction adhesives on masonry, and don’t expect miracles on painted walls. For the broad middle of sticky problems, though, this is the bottle I’ll keep within reach.