Glue Dots , Micro Dots, Double-Sided, Permanent, 1/8", 325 Dots, Diamond Painting Pen Glue, DIY Craft Glue Tape, Sticky Adhesive Glue Points, Liquid Hot Glue Alternative, Clear

Why I reached for these Micro Dots

Tiny embellishments are notoriously finicky to adhere cleanly. Liquid glues smear, hot glue is overkill, and most double-sided tapes are too big or imprecise. I started using these Micro Dots to wrangle rhinestones, sequins, and small buttons on cards and gift tags, and I’ve since kept a roll within arm’s reach for all sorts of miniature sticking jobs—especially diamond painting. At 1/8-inch (about 3 mm) in diameter and supplied 325 to a roll, they sit in a sweet spot: small enough for precision work, strong enough to hold, and clean enough that I don’t have to budget time for drying or cleanup.

What stands out

• Instant, clean bond: No solvent, water, or heat. I press, lift, and move on—no warping paper fibers, no glue strings, no fumes.
• True micro size: The 1/8-inch dots are actually small enough to disappear under rhinestones and mini cabochons without telegraphing a blob around the edges.
• Archival-friendly: Acid- and lignin-free matters for scrapbooking and cardmaking; photos and fine papers won’t yellow around the adhesive area.
• Consistent tack: Each dot feels identical to the next, which is surprisingly important when you’re placing 50+ stones in a row.
• Made in the USA: Not a performance feature, but I appreciate the consistency in manufacturing I’ve seen from this brand.

In use: paper, plastic, and glass

On paper and cardstock, one dot held small embellishments reliably, including 5–8 mm rhinestones and flat-backed pearls. For slightly heavier accents (like a 10–12 mm wood button), I either used two dots or overlapped a dot across both the accent and the substrate seam to increase surface area. The bond sets immediately and resists shear well enough that gift tags and greeting cards don’t shed their bling in transit.

On smooth, non-porous surfaces like acrylic and glass, the dots grip strongly but remain manageable. I tested them on eyeglass toppers and clear lids; a single dot kept thin toppers from shifting during normal wear. When I wanted to remove them, a slow peel followed by rolling the residue with a fingertip took care of cleanup without scratching. On textured fabrics, results were mixed: the dots hold to the embellishment but can release from looser weaves. For fabric work, I’d treat these as a placement aid rather than a permanent finish.

Diamond painting: a better “fuel” for the pen

Where these dots shine for me is diamond painting. Instead of refilling pen tips with wax every few minutes, I load the pen with a slice of Micro Dot and keep going. Here’s what worked best:

• Single placer: Press the pen tip straight into one dot while it’s still on the liner. For a fresh, very tacky feel, use a whole dot. If it grabs too aggressively, touch it to a scrap of cardstock once or twice to reduce initial tack.
• Longevity: One dot lasted through multiple sessions on round drills. Square drills and dustier canvases consumed tack a bit faster, but still far outlasted wax.
• Multi-placer: For wider tips, overlap two dots edge-to-edge on the liner and press the tip onto both at once.

The advantage is consistent pickup without the slump or residue that some waxes leave behind. If the dot collects dust or loses bite mid-session, I pop the tip onto a fresh dot—ten seconds and back to work.

Handling and placement tips

There’s a small learning curve if you haven’t used micro adhesive dots before. These practices gave me the cleanest results:

• Place from the liner: Position the dot by touching the liner to your substrate and burnishing lightly; then peel the liner away. This avoids stretching or stringing the adhesive.
• Use tweezers sparingly: If you must lift a dot, do it gently and keep the dot in a compact, circular shape.
• Reduce tack for delicate surfaces: A quick tap against a cotton cloth or scrap paper makes the dot less aggressive when you need a temporary bond or worry about lifting fibers.
• Stack for dimension: Two dots stacked create a tiny bump of dimension that works nicely for layering transparent sequins without visible wet glue.
• Keep it clean: Oils, dust, and glitter reduce tack quickly. Clean substrates give a noticeably stronger hold.

Packaging and ergonomics

The roll format is practical. It dispenses smoothly, and the liner keeps dots separated so you aren’t wrestling with strings of adhesive. The dots are truly clear, so they disappear under most embellishments. One minor hiccup I encountered on a fresh roll: the core’s printed ink transferred faintly to my fingertips when I handled it aggressively, and the liner shed a touch of fine debris on the first pull. A quick wipe of the edges and unspooling the first few inches solved it and didn’t affect performance.

Strength and limitations

These are marketed as permanent, and on paper-based projects that’s accurate. On smooth plastics and glass, I’d call the hold “secure but removable” for light loads, which is often a feature, not a bug. That said, there are boundaries:

• Not for weight bearing: Small magnets, heavy metal charms, and bulkier buttons can exceed a single dot’s shear strength. Use multiple dots or a different adhesive for heftier items.
• Not for porous textiles: On woven fabrics, the bond is inconsistent unless the embellishment has a broad, flat back. I’d switch to fabric glue or stitching for anything that needs durability.
• Temperature and dust sensitivity: Very warm conditions soften the adhesive, and dusty environments reduce tack. Keep the roll sealed when not in use.

Value and longevity

With 325 dots on a roll, I can get through several medium-sized projects before I reorder. The per-bond cost is higher than a bottle of liquid glue, but the time savings and zero-mess application make up for it when I’m working small. In diamond painting, the increase in uptime versus wax (fewer interruptions to reload the pen) is worth the cost on its own. For cardmaking or scrapbookers, the archival-safe chemistry saves worry about long-term discoloration.

Alternatives and when to choose something else

• Liquid PVA: Better for large surfaces and porous materials; cheaper but slower and can warp thin papers.
• Hot glue: Strong and gap-filling, but bulky, string-prone, and risky around delicate materials.
• Tape runners: Great for edges and larger pieces, but too blunt for tiny rhinestones.
• Putty/wax for pens: Inexpensive and fine for casual use, but less consistent in tack and leaves residue more often.

I reach for these Micro Dots whenever precision and cleanliness matter more than absolute strength, especially for tiny, rigid embellishments.

Care and storage

Store the roll in a zip bag or the original box to keep dust off. Avoid leaving it in a hot car or near a sunny window. If the first few dots on a long-opened roll feel less tacky, peel past them; the remainder typically performs normally.

The bottom line

I recommend the Micro Dots for anyone working with small embellishments, cardmaking, scrapbooking, or diamond painting. They’re fast, clean, and predictable in a way that liquid glues and waxes rarely are, and the micro size is genuinely useful rather than a gimmick. They’re not the answer for heavy items or textured fabrics, and the first-unspool experience could be tidier, but for everyday precision sticking on paper, plastic, and glass, they’ve earned a permanent place in my kit.