DeWalt Demolition bimetal reciprocating saw blades

Why these blades landed in my demo kit

On a recent gut job, I loaded my saw with a fresh set of DeWalt demolition blades and committed to using them for everything I could: nail-riddled studs, roof sheathing, EMT, screws, and the occasional stray bracket. The pack I used is the 6-inch, 20-count DWAR660, a straightforward, jobsite-friendly set meant for rough work. After several days of cutting, prying, and generally abusing them, I have a clear sense of where these blades shine and where they’re simply adequate.

Design and build

These are bi-metal blades with a tall, thick profile and tooth geometry designed to clear chips efficiently. In practice, that thicker spine is the defining trait:

• Stiffness: The extra height and thickness noticeably reduce flex, especially useful when you’re plunging into sheathing or working from awkward angles where the shoe can’t fully support the blade.
• Line tracking: The added rigidity keeps cuts straighter in nail-embedded wood and reduces the “banana effect” that shows up with slimmer blades.
• Trade-off: A thicker profile usually means a slightly wider kerf and a bit of extra drag. That’s the case here, particularly in dense hardwoods or when the blade is already warm.

The bi-metal construction delivers the blend you want in demolition: a tooth line that holds up long enough to justify the pack price, and a body that resists snap-offs when the blade binds or you tweak it mid-cut. I bent a couple of blades badly while undercutting bottom plates over concrete; neither snapped, which is exactly the behavior I look for in demo consumables.

At 6 inches, these aren’t long-reach blades. They’re ideal for trimming studs and joists, flush-cutting nails and screws, and cutting pipe close to surfaces. For deep plunge cuts through double plates or reaching across a 2x wall to grab a far-side fastener, you’ll want 9-inch blades on hand.

Cutting performance

• Nail-embedded wood: This is where these blades are happiest. The tooth geometry keeps chips moving, and the blade tracks straight. I could lean into the saw without the blade buckling, and the cut remained surprisingly clean for a demolition profile.
• Soft metals and fasteners: EMT, copper, and common construction screws posed no issue. The blade doesn’t excel at speed in steel, but it maintains a predictable pace and doesn’t burn up quickly when you keep the strokes moderate and let the shoe rest on the work.
• Mixed materials: Cutting composite assemblies—like siding over plywood with nails through felt—didn’t choke the blade. Chip clearance is good enough that I didn’t have to back out often to clear debris.
• Plunge cuts: The stiff spine makes for confident plunges. Starting a window in sheathing or punching into subfloor felt controlled and chatter-free.

If you’re looking for blistering speed in thick steel or cast iron, these aren’t the right blades. That’s not their target use. They’re demolition blades meant to survive dirty, inconsistent cuts and keep moving through a job without constant swaps.

Durability and blade life

Blade life is above average for a 6-inch demolition profile. I rotated through three blades for a full day of teardown, including plenty of nail hits, and still had useful teeth left by evening. The leading teeth do round off after repeated fastener contact—as expected—but the remaining length stays serviceable for general wood cutting.

Two durability notes:
- Heat management is decent. Even in longer cuts, the teeth stayed sharp enough to avoid polishing over prematurely.
- The tooth line resists chipping. I had some teeth deform after a nasty encounter with lag screws, but no chunks tore out, which would have turned the blade into a chatter stick.

For the cost of a 20-pack, the overall value is strong. Consumables should be judged by cuts-per-dollar as much as by peak performance, and these strike a practical balance.

Handling and control

The stiffness pays dividends in control. I could steer through framing members without the blade wandering, and the saw felt less “whippy” during long strokes. That control also reduces fatigue, because you don’t have to baby the cut to keep the line. On the flip side, the added thickness makes tight, curving cuts harder. If you need to notch around pipe hangers or contour around brackets, a slimmer, more flexible blade will feel quicker.

Vibration is well controlled. Even in nail-heavy material, the blade and saw didn’t hammer the way lighter, thinner blades sometimes do when the teeth start to dull.

Packaging and case

My 20-pack arrived in a compact plastic case. It’s rugged enough for the truck and keeps blades visible. The latch on mine was unreasonably stiff out of the box, and the trays are an exact fit—good for storage, less good when you’re gloved and muddy. A small gripe, but worth noting if you’re cycling blades fast during a demo day. The blades themselves are clearly labeled for length, which helps when you’ve got several sets in rotation.

Warranty and origin

These blades are made in the U.S.A. with global materials. As with most consumables, there’s no meaningful warranty coverage here, so your protection is really in the pack value rather than replacement support. That’s normal, but if you expect a satisfaction guarantee on consumables, you won’t find it.

Where these blades fit best

• Residential remodeling and tear-outs, especially nail-embedded framing and sheathing
• Cutting out door and window openings, trimming studs flush, and removing bracketry
• Multi-material demo where you’ll hit metal occasionally but spend most of your time in wood

They are less ideal for:
- Deep reach cuts (limited by the 6-inch length)
- Heavy, frequent metal-only cutting (look for a dedicated metal blade)
- Tight-radius cuts or intricate notching (a thinner, more flexible blade tracks curves better)

Tips for getting the most from them

• Use the saw’s shoe aggressively. Lock the shoe onto the work to minimize blade deflection and extend tooth life.
• Let the teeth work. Pushing too hard, especially in metal, creates heat and rounds the edge fast.
• Match stroke and speed to the material. Slower speeds for steel; moderate to fast for wood and composites.
• Keep a fresh blade for plunge cuts. A sharp tip makes controlled entries much easier.

Alternatives to consider

If you regularly need longer reach or are constantly in metal, a 9-inch demolition blade or a dedicated metal cutting profile will serve you better. Likewise, if your work demands tight curves and finesse over brute stiffness, a thinner, variable-thickness blade can feel more nimble. Those trade-offs aside, for general demo tasks the DWAR660 format hits the sweet spot.

Bottom line and recommendation

These DeWalt demolition blades earn a spot in my kit because they balance stiffness, durability, and predictable cutting in the messy, mixed-material world of tear-outs. The tall, thick profile keeps cuts straight and controlled, the bi-metal edge holds up respectably against nails and screws, and the chip-clearing tooth geometry helps the blade stay cutting instead of clogging. You give up some maneuverability and deep-reach capability, and the case could be more user-friendly, but the core performance is solid.

Recommendation: I recommend these blades for remodelers, repair technicians, and DIYers tackling demolition-heavy projects who want a reliable, no-drama 6-inch option in a sensible 20-pack. They won’t replace specialized blades for metal or deep cuts, but as a general-purpose demo workhorse, they’re a smart, economical choice that I’ll keep re-stocking.